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-   -   RV-14 Trim Tab (https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=150289)

bkervaski 06-08-2017 02:13 PM

RV-14 Trim Tab
 
Hey guys, after more than one attempt I finally got a perfect trim tab built, mostly .. very last step .. while back riveting the trailing edge you have to make sure you take into account the bend in the trailing edge piece or the rivets won't seat. In an attempt to fix it, I got a row of about 10 small "smileys" on the top skin (they stayed hidden until I pulled the masking and rivet tape off) so I'm going to build it again.

At any rate, it's a near perfect trim tab build (sans small portion of the trailing edge that needs attention) if anyone wants it on the cheap to save the hassle/time to build it .. at least once :D

Here some pics -- https://www.dropbox.com/sh/gh2cld5sc...KeMYWu_7a?dl=0

I'm sure somebody has a clever way to fill this in finishing/paint.

mturnerb 06-08-2017 04:27 PM

The key for me - and for the elevator trailing edges - was using the "safety pin" dimple dies from Cleaveland in my "Main Squeeze" - avoids issues like the smileys you show in your photos.

http://www.cleavelandtool.com/RV-14-.../#.WTnPXRMrK9Q

bkervaski 06-08-2017 05:45 PM

Quote:

avoids issues like the smileys you show in your photos
Thanks! The smileys are from trying to fix the raised rivet manufactured heads from the bad angle I had on the steel back riveting plate.

Corrected the issue by gluing 3 large popsicle sticks together and then placing them under one side of the back riveting plate matching the angle of the trailing edge and finished up, the rest of the rivets turned out great .. easily reproducible for the next round.

Looking into that tool, looks helpful (thanks).

KeithB 06-08-2017 09:30 PM

I also had what I judged a "defective" trim tab - in my case a twist of 1/4? + (a rookie builder issue). I elected to "build on" and save my rebuild-or-not decision until later. The plane flew its Phase I with the original trim tab and I've since decided to rebuild it and done so (installed last week). However, I'm still glad I waited - it kept my project momentum going, it was a reminder that no flying plane is perfect, my skills improved so the redo was a slam dunk, and if I made a dozen worse things, I might have kept it. YMMV

bkervaski 06-11-2017 05:01 PM

Quote:

The key for me - and for the elevator trailing edges - was using the "safety pin" dimple dies from Cleaveland in my "Main Squeeze" - avoids issues like the smileys you show in your photos.
Are you guys using this tool to fully squeeze the rivets in one pass or just to get them started?

KeithB 06-11-2017 09:30 PM

On the elevator and trim tab, the "pinned dies" is the only tool I used. I partially set every 10th or so rivet, checked for straightness, split all the gaps (partially set only), then checked for straightness, - etc until all rivets were partially set. Then I repeated a similar pattern (spaced rivets) tightening them up most of the way, but not final. A third pass made final set. Be careful since with these dies, if you alter the distance from the edge, you alter the squeeze - be very careful with positioning.
This might be overkill - but it worked for me.

mturnerb 06-12-2017 03:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bkervaski (Post 1179705)
Are you guys using this tool to fully squeeze the rivets in one pass or just to get them started?

Sorry for late response - I usually set them about 90% first pass, then finished up - this made it easier to modulate the force applied with the "main squeeze". I used tape to hold the dies in alignment in the yoke - rubber bands would probably also work.

Eztroller 06-12-2017 07:59 PM

Can someone show pics of this process. Im totally lost....

challinan 06-13-2017 06:29 AM

Same here...don't quite understand the use of the pinned dies. Pictures would be very helpful, as that step is still in front of me! Thanks!

mturnerb 06-13-2017 01:14 PM



Sorry for the huge photo - the dies are angled to match the angle of the trim tab/elevator trailing edges. Sorry don't have photos of it being applied to the actual edges, but I think it's intuitive when you look at this photo. Tricky part is to hold one side against the manufactured head, flush, so that the shop head ends up flush on the angled opposite side.


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