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I wimped out and used counter-sunk pulled rivets on mine.
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We used a mushroom set on those, without the retaining spring on the set. That improves the geometry.
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I'll give that a shot and if it doesn't work - the pulled rivet may be a good solution. |
Take a 1/8" thick piece of aluminum perhaps 1/2" wide and 1" long. Put flush rivets in the holes and put a piece of clear tape over them so they stay in place. You will place the 1/8" thick piece of aluminum over them to rivet.
About the spot where the plate is over the flush rivets, drill a #30 hole in the plate. Slightly countersink the back side of the plate with your deburring tool. Cut a 1/8" round rivet so it is just proud of the countersink. Set the rivet such that it is flush on the countersink side. Add a layer of clear packing tape on the bottom of the plate (it will protect the skin from scuffs). Using a long 1/8" rouind head rivet set, drive the flush rivets with the set inserted in the head of the round rivet on the plate. Move the plate as needed to keep it over the rivet being set. Piece of cake, Carl |
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Yep
That's what I used!
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That's pretty interesting - never seen one of those before. I actually tried Kyle's method, and it worked like a charm. Carl, while I'm sure you're method works well too - Kyle's took me about 10 seconds... you're looks like it would take me an hour. -charlie |
bottom skins
I used a swivel head mushroom set. Lose the retaining spring and take off the rubber shell on the side against thew flap bracket. A piece of clear packing tape will keep the primer from getting marred.
Remember you're doing it for the experience:-) |
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