Removing oil sump
 

Trying to drop the sump on my io-360b1b after my disaster yesterday of dropping the Pmag clamp through the open mag hole. Have everything out of the way now but trying to disconnect the air intake tubes where the rubber sleeve is and can't get them to budge. They rubber sleeves rotate on the tubes but won't slide either way. Do I have to disconnect them at the cylinder heads?

Haven't had a sump off before so just feeling my way through this.

Thanks

Erich

Yes, so when you get a new sump gasket get induction tube gaskets also.

Hoses
 

There are beads on the sump tubes and intake tubes that make the rubber hoses hard to slide. Wear some heavy work gloves and use a substantial amount of force to move the hoses outboard enough to clear the sump.
Depending on age of hoses they can be difficult to move. You may want to replace the hoses.
Alternatively you can remove the intake flanges and the entire assembly should slide apart more easily. This will definitely require new gaskets at the cylinder/flange intersection.

Pictures please...
 

Hi Erich,

I dropped a stainless steal nut down the mag hole when I installed my p-mag. Stainless steal is slightly magnetic, so better than aluminum. I was able to get it with a scope and magnet. I think there was definitely some luck involved!

http://www.vansairforce.com/communit...d.php?t=133032

For awhile I was pretty sure I was going to have to drop the sump. I didn't know if it could be done without removing the engine. So I was pretty despondent for while. Sounds like it can.

I'd love to see some pictures for posterities sake.

Best of luck!
Michael-

What Michael B says. Check to see if your clamps are magnetic at all and fish it out with an articulating magnet if they are. One of those retractable flexable claws may work also. Draining your oil first might help for a visual and resistance pulling it out. Dropping the sump would be my last resort.

Coming to the conclusion it will be better to bite the bullet and remove the exhaust system so that the sump and entire intake tube system can just drop down with nothing in the way. Will make much easier to get the sump back in place too. Will be replacing rubber intake sleeves n gaskets along with sump gasket as advised.

Thanks
Erich

Sump removal
 

Exhaust comes off quick and easy and makes all the other work 10x easier. Disconnect intakes from cylinder heads and pull the pipe outboard out of the hose. A large pair of pliers can then be used to pull the hose off the sump stubs, you can also slice them open with a razor knife. If the hoses are that stiff you should replace them along with intake gaskets at cylinders, if needed exhaust gaskets at cylinders, oil sump gasket, servo & airbox gaskets, oil screen crush washer and all lock washers. If you need torque values I can look them up for you. Reverse order for reassembly with exhaust system going on last.

Don Broussard
RV9 Rebuild in Progress
57 Pacer

Take advantage of it
 

Had a similar experience helping my mechanic one day when I was scraping old gasket from the governor mount and the tool slipped out of my oily hands into the blackness.

We drained the oil and wasted the rest of the day proding around with cameras and magnets without finding it. Then decided the sump had to come off and very quickly added new intake and oil return hoses and new intake gaskets to the list.

By lunch the next day we had recovered the tool, refreshed a few things and eliminated a couple of weapy oil leaks along the way. Having the exhaust off was also a good thing because we found the ball joints needed a clean (now apply mouse milk every time the cowl is off).

I ended up quite pleased that things had gone astray the previous day.

Per the other thread yesterday, no luck fishing out Pmag clamp so dropping sump is the price I pay. Planning on replacing all paper gaskets and rubber intake sleeves as advised but metal exhaust flange gaskets all look good so thinking I can keep those?

A few exhaust nuts awere tough to get a socket on but got a extra thin walled socket n finally got the last one off. Ball joints on exhaust seem pretty frozen despite my occasional dose of mouse oil over the years. At least they are frozen in the right orientation.

Erich

Exhaust
 

A thin wall universal joint 1/2" socket is usually very helpful on inboard exhaust nuts. Tis is a case where the extra money for Snap On is well spent. The blowproof exhaust gaskets are reuseable. As you snug up the intake flanges make sure the intake pipes are centered in the counterbore, go a bit past finger tight, install the intake hoses and then torque the flanges.