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roto zip
I've found that by far the best holes are made using a roto zip tool. You can get one at harbor freight for about $20. Make a template from wood and clamp it to the back of the metal. This will guide the roto zip. The template should be female, i.e. it will have the same hole cutout that you want to cutout, preventing the bit from wandering into material you don't want to cut. I used this for my NACA ducts and a completely clean and finished cut is done with a single pass. No risk from freehanding.
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In general, what can a Dremel do that a pneumatic die-grinder can't do? I have a small die-grinder that I got for about 20 bucks. A dremel costs about $80CAD. Is it worth getting one? Can't I just use dremel bits in my die-grinder with exactly the same effect (being careful of the RPM of course).
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http://www.vansairforce.com/communit...ead.php?t=6577 What I particularly like about this Dremel-like tool is that you can change it many accessories very fast without the need of a wrench. You merely depress a button near the collet to lock the spindle for accessory insertion or removal. |
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Oh yeah: Wear Eye Protection! |
My dremel will be buried with me, when i go, along with my pneumatic squeezer.
I cant think of two tools that have made otherwise difficult tasks a piece of cake. Its not only the cuting of the initial hole. the sanding drum attachments etc. make hole cutting and edge finishing in skins childs play. I appreciate the die grinders have more horsepower, but for accuracy, and detail work, I think you cant beat the dremel. Ive got a Li-ion rechargeable one. Its great. Cheers Richard Sydney, AUS |
I hardly ever use my dremel tool on the RV
I have a regular variable speed "corded" dremel. I've used it very little on the RV project. Not real sure why. I think it's because it's noisy and it usually throws all the dust right in your face. More times than not for me I just can't hold it in a position that will allow me to see what I'm doing and not get sandblasted in the face. Maybe I need some schooling.
I prefer to drill the corners with a unibit and then use a nibbler. The nibbler reminds me of the old Pac Man game. If you don't have one, get one. Usually they are less than $20. [IMG] [/IMG]See how it works here: http://www.mytoolstore.com/klein/76011b.html The nibbler made this defroster cutout easy: ![]() Mark |
I cut out my landing & taxi lights, custom access panels, and instrument panel, all using the standard 3" diameter cutoff wheels as sold by Avery
(http://www.averytools.com/cart/p-408-cutoff-wheels.aspx), driven by my 18v battery drill or die grinder. Works fine, as long as done very carefully. Earlier work done with the die grinder. Later work done with the battery drill. Other suggestions listed here sound good, too. I'd use the larger 3" wheels on larger holes, and smaller Dremel wheels on smaller holes. Examples: http://www.meyette.us/WingsMar03.htm http://www.meyette.us/AccessPanels.htm http://www.meyette.us/avionicsJan06.htm#jan29 brian |
I did all the way up to the finish kit with a die grinder, nibbler and file. Recently got a Dremel and wish I'd had it all along. It's a lot quieter than a die grinder/compresser and easier to handle (less torque/weight). It's also cool to be able to go to Depot and get all the neat little tips for it. And you should definitely wear glasses and also try to keep your face out of line with the cutter. Don't ask me how I know this.
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Thanks for the excellent tip. Personally, having never considered nor used a hand nibbler...sometimes you just know instinctively a real tool winner when you see one. I'll be picking up my copy real soon. Thanks again. |
More than one way to skin a cat
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