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About to buy my wings, any advice for things to add?
I am about 85% done with my tail kit, and I plan on finishing it up in the next month or so, especially given the holiday breaks. So, I am getting ready to order my wing kit. I am going slow build on everything, because I love building for the fun of it. Here is a list of things I am planning on adding:
1. Fuel level senders. Float type since Van's doesn't sell capacitive anymore. 2. 2 extra longerons (advice I had seen from Larry on another thread). 3. Better fuel caps, I think everyone recommends the locking style. 4. Electric Aileron trim. Would like to go with the tab style instead of spring bias. 5. Fuel pickup tubes. 1 pre-made tube and 1 flop-style tube with anti-rotation. 6. AOA and Pitot plumbing lines 7. Plastic conduit 8. Return fuel line plumbing 9. Cleaveland tools tie down mod / kit. 10. Extra sheets of aluminum, various thicknesses. 11. Fuel tank test kit. 12. Extra W-730 bell crank jig (About $4) to allow work on both ailerons at the same time. I am planning on doing wing tip lighting, but I haven't fully settled on which LED kit I want to use. I really like Aveo's ZipTips but they are very pricey, and there are good alternatives for normal wing tips like Baja etc. What else should I also add to this order to save money on shipping, etc? What other options would you get for the wings? |
Some folks will add (or order from another source) the pitot tube of choice. You'll want some conduit, probably.
I put in a duckworks landing light mount, in the leading of my wings. |
Extras
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1. You can always make them if you want. It's just a couple plates and some Delrin stand offs. 2. Cheap to buy. Pricey to ship. Get 2. 3. You can always leave them unlocked. Very nice cap and flange. 4. Is that an option now? It would require a modified aileron too. Hmmm. 5. Decide on flop or standard. 6. Corogated conduit. Pain to install but very useful later. 7. Wait till the last minute for Proseal. Vans Firemaster is fine. Buy 1 quart to start tanks then another later if needed. Other stuff... While you wait, build the wing jig if you plan on using them. Buy more 3/32" Wedgelock clekos. I used 1,000 to build both wings at the same time but I use every other hole plus 100% clekos in the tanks. Buy a pitot tube mount and plumbing. The Gretz mount is pretty nice and fits most masts. Safe Air plumbing kit is pretty sweet. |
Updated the original post with the suggestions so far.
I think Larry sold me on the two additional longerons :-) I can always use them for spare stock if I dont need them, or donate them to another VAF'er in need to pay it forward. Is this the usual nice fuel cap that everyone recommends? http://vansaircraft.com/cgi-bin/stor...duct=delux-cap I have been waffling around on the fuel pickup. I would like to equip the plane for inverted flight, just in case I want to do that in the future (still a long way from the engine choice at this point though). Flop tubes are a must for this, but I have heard issues of them getting hung up on the internals of the tank. I may go ahead and order them, since they are about $46 each, in case I decide to go with them. Maybe if I go with capacitive senders there won't be anything for the tubes to hang on. I plan on skipping the pro-seal for now. I will likely not be able to get to the fuel tanks in time to use it before its shelf life is over, so I'll just order it when I get to the tanks. Larry, I can't seem to find Safeair anymore, are they still in business? I am also like you when it comes to clecos... I use one for every other hole to make sure everything stays straight during assembly and drilling, then when I rivet, I cleco every hole only removing them as I stick a rivet in to set. I have been pondering if the Isham took kit I have has enough to do this for both wings at the same time...heh. May need to order a few hundred more. I have a very nice and flat concrete floor in my basement where I will build the wings. I am seriously considering having the "modified" or "alternative" metal wing stands made up that bolts into the floor. These are the ones I am considering: http://www.rudigreyling.com/rv_tip_stands.html I have plenty of space to bolt two of them down, and give me plenty of room to work on all sides of the wings with a roller stool. I wil be going with Dynon panel, so I have only looked at their pitot/AOA mount, but will check out the Gretz. |
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Any time I pay to ship a big crate, I have them pad it with some big sheets of aluminum. That stuff can cost more to ship than it is worth.
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Stuff
Yes. Those are the caps and flanges.
Yes. Wait till the Proseal is needed. Most builders who opt for the flop, put one on the left side. Install an anti-rotation bracket. I can't find SafeAir1 either. Weird Yes. The Rudi wing jig rocks! The Gretz is a bit more robust but both work. Also, Cleveland sells a tie down bracket kit. Pretty sweet. Install so the bracket is flush to the inside of the skin. |
I'd find a way to do capacitive fuel sensors if I could do it over. Not impressed with accuracy of floats. I'm sure they're okay but I am spoiled now and want everything to be accurate to .5 gallons or so ;) I rely on my fuel flow totalizer which is super accurate but doesn't tell me how much is in each tank.
Chris |
Tons of great suggestions! I updated the original post again. Scott, I like the idea of getting some extra sheets of alcad stock. Definitely will do that, maybe even some extra angle if they can do it.
Larry, I will read up on the anti-rotation bracket for the flop tube. I am leaning towards getting one since I *might* set the engine up for inverted flight at some point. Might as well have the tank be ready for it as well, just in case. Also, it does look like the "stock" electric trim option from Vans is the bias springs. I may see about tearing into my little practice kit to make an actual mini trim tab. I've seen a post from another 7 builder that made a trim tab that looked really great, not the little add-on tab, but an actual trim tab cut out of the aileron. |
Safe Air
The same kits and pieces are sold by Cleaveland Tools now.
http://www.cleavelandtool.com/Plumbi.../#.WFhzLXfMwdU |
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4. The electric aileron trim is merely an added servo and some HW to operate the spring bias system (and actually a fuselage option). Maybe you meant elevator trim ? Options are either manual or electric. Many autopilots can also trim, so if you want that option, electric is the way to go. 6. Cleaveland took over some of Avery Tools inventory and still have the SafeAir kits available. 7. Plenty of conduits are already included Things to consider: Get the RV7/7A drawing DVD, it has all the OP drawings as well. Including the capacitive drawings (OP07). Pretty easy to make. Maybe add the tank testing kit. |
Added the fuel tank test kit. I already have the plans DVD it's super useful.
Typically for a 7 the aileron trim. Is using the bias springs and a servo that's ordered with the fuselage, but the 6 has an option to add a trim tab on the aileron and a servo inside the aileron much like the elevator trim is done. I've seen a post on here where a guy retrofitted this sort of trim tab onto his 7 and it looked really good and he said it worked really well. I'll try to find the post and link it. I think he used the RV6 kit and just tweaked it a little. |
Found the thread:
http://www.vansairforce.com/communit...d.php?p=625799 Pat Hatch did a really great job putting the little trib tab in that aileron, making a very clean and sleek look. However, I wonder if having the servo in the aileron makes it feel any heavier or throws the balance off. Maybe it could be balanced out, but not sure. |
The former SafeAir mast is sold by Cleaveland as "Pitot Mast Blue."
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I am pretty sure I have seen that Vans is now pre-cutting the landing light hole in the wing skin. That's fine if you want the landing lights in the position they have selected. (mine are in the tips). EDIT. I may be thinking of a pre-cut hole for stall warning. See post from Z-EDD further down the thread. EDIT |
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I haven't decided if I want to use wingtip landing lights or leading edge. If Van's is pre-cutting the leading edge, I will probably end up using the leading edge holes for some wide angle taxi lights, and the wing-tips as focused landing lights. |
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Deluxe fuel caps, I got the non-locking. Very, very nice.
Autopilot servo install kit. An extra W-730 aileron bellcrank jig. Lets you do both wings at the same time. Cheap. Some extra nutplates Leading edge landing light kit(s) if you want to go that route. Only need the install kits, not the lights yet (LEDs are improving quickly!) The hinge stock needed to do the screw-less wingtip mod if you want to do it. #6 and #8 dimple dies. Some scotchbrite deburring wheels (small) for the lightening holes and such. A TON of 3/32 clecos! (I borrowed from every builder I know) Extra sheets of aluminum. Pick some handy sizes in a few thicknesses. (has Van's improved the fit of the stall warner access plate yet?) A good riveting buddy for the wing skins! |
Safeair1
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I just bought a Van's fuel tank test kit for a friend. It's pretty lean; some builder stuff required. Larry, you ought to offer your kit on the market - it's a very, very good kit. Seriously.
I have the deluxe locking tank caps. Mine leaked through the center stem. I friend sent me some Fuel Lube, this stuff. It did the job. I recommend the 5 oz. tube. It'll be enough for several lifetimes. Dave |
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Regarding flop tubes, consider the following. If fitting the float senders they must be moved to the next bay outboard and installed through the rear baffle. In this position they will read neither completely full, nor completely empty, not such a big deal. HOWEVER, if you ever need to access the senders for maintenance, even just to fix a bad connection, the tank will have to be removed from the wing! A major Pita. Capacitive senders would solve this but vans must have discontinued the kit for a reason. This is just a guess, but it could be to do with maintenance down the line. A bad connection inside the tank would be really hard to fix. Are you looking for a heated pitot or do you just want AoA? If the latter then there are other ways to accomplish this than the expensive pitots from Dynon or Garmin. Most any tube or hole pointing down at an angle of ( I think) 30 degrees from horizontal will do the trick. See the following thread http://www.vansairforce.com/communit...ad.php?t=34040 |
Angle
+1 on the angle - get more than you think you will need in all thicknesses.
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Added the extra W-730 aileron jig to the list.
I am planning on using a heated Pitot/AOA but have not decided on which pitot mount yet. Either Gretz or the one Dynon sells. I've still got a few days before I get the order in, since the price increases are not done yearly anymore. I may want until after the holidays to order the kit. |
Price increases generally seem to happen sometime in the middle or late in the first quarter.
Dave |
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Mark those extra angle pcs
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Newb here reading with great interest- I'm almost ready for the wing order too-
Question- why the extra longeron a with the wing? Aren't these fuse parts and extras can be ordered then? Also, are there any parts on the wing with a high probability of a re-do? It would have been nice having my second set of front spars in the emp kit- and the extra trim tab :D |
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The cost to built another box that long would increase crating cost a lot therefore it is more economical to just include the LONGEST part of the airplane project with the wing kit that also has the 2nd longest part. |
Longerons
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Most builders have fewer problems with the wings so no need for re-do parts. The suggestions i this thread are a good reference. |
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