That is much better!! Thanks for pointing out the plates. I dont see the capacitive fuel sensor kit on their web site. Is this something they still sell and I just have to call them for?


Yup...I'll get that later

Wont get the any lights yet until after make the outboard fuel tank. Not sure if a Duckworks kit will fit between the two tanks. I have seen another light that goes into the bottom cowl. May end up fabing up my own taxi and landing light on the bottom cowl. That is a ways away on the list past the fusalage kit.



I have the Andair fuel caps and they are awesome, and require no modification, you just need to proseal its flange into the original tank flange. Having lockable caps is not practical sometimes. On fly-ins like OSH you need to be there to fuel your plane. There's no no-key option.

Yup. I don't plan on installing the factory stall horn. Will do AOA.


With the clickbond, you still see the screws on the outside right? If so, yea, I'll just stick with the plans on the tips. Will add nutplate jigs to the list.

I clouldn't find the RV-9 capacitive plates on Van's site either, give them a call.

ClickBond does make the nutplate install much quicker, there's a whole bunch of them, but it looks like you are not planning to beat any speed record, and all those nutplates and rivets are already included in the kit.
One tip there. Don't use the countersink bits you use on aluminum. Permagrit countersink bits work way better on fiberglass:

http://www.permagrit.com/index.php?cPath=69_88

I think I got mine from Avery Tools, not sure who sells them now.

The screws will still be there either way, there's no cosmetic difference. You can get nicer looking torx stainless screws from Micro Fasteners:

http://www.microfasteners.com/fcmxs0...stainless.html

A quick thought about outboard tanks. While a few RV-10s have them, I don't know if anyone has done any real engineering on them. If you are able to run LOP (electronic ignition + balanced injector nozzles), you can cruise at 165 knots on 10.5 gal/hour. That's well over 5 hours of flying. By that time you get tired, hungry, need a bathroom break, and it's not healthy to sit for that long in one place anyway. Just saying....

Lenny

Great tip on on the countersink!!!! Thanks.....

I'm one of those types that drives until I HAVE TO STOP TO FUEL on long trips. My Diesel jetta gets some 800-900 miles per tank!! I drove straight to TN once non stop in my jetta from South FL. It was great!

So thats where the long range fuel tanks idea comes from. Still not set in stone.

Wingtip hinges
 

Hi Luis
Might be worth considering using hinges to attach your wingtips.
I did it on my -7 and its one of the best mods I made.
Super neat and only takes a matter of seconds to remove or install.
Plenty of write ups about for it.
Cheers

As previously stated, there seems to be little or no engineering examination of adding fuel tanks to the wing. Add to that the cost and complexity and perhaps you should look to other options for those few times you want more that 5+ hours of fuel. I would suspect adding such tanks could also scare off potential buyers if you ever need to sell the plane. It would me.

There are quality ferry tanks available that can be added in place of the rear seats, or if you want you can make perfectly fitting tanks out of carbon fiber. I watched my neighbor Bill Harrelson make five such tanks to fit inside his Lancair 4 he flew over both the North and South poles. Now the tanks are sitting on a shelf if he ever wants to so another long haul trip (he used three of these tanks to make a vacation trip to New Zealand - the extra space was so his wife could go with him).

Carl

+1
 

I also did the hinge method and really like 1) how they look and 2) how easily they go on and off.

1 - How much pro seal do I need to complete the standard fuel tanks?
2 - What size conduit fit the standard conduit holes?
3 - How many feet of conduit should I order for wings and fuse? (plan to buy big batch).
4 - Do the kit lead times include the shipping time? If not, how long does shipping take generally to S. FL?

Thanks

1) Most folks would use >1 quart, so buy 2.
2) IIRC, those are 3/4" holes. There is no need to buy anything for those holes now.
3) I've found that snap bushings are much easier to work with than conduit. I'd recommend only using the conduit for the runs under the rear seats and baggage compartment. In that case, you're probably looking at 40' max, probably less. No need to order now...
4) Shipping is a week or two if you use a regular carrier. If you use someone like Partain, it could take weeks longer because they kind of traipse back and forth across the country, rather than node to node on a hub and spoke system.

One more note: Kit delivery times are ballpark estimates - there can be a lot of variation. Call Van's for the real timeframe.

A second note: Up front purchases satisfy some psychological need (speaking for myself), but unless you're getting a screaming deal, you're gonna change your mind on some things and be stuck with some leftovers. Buy what you need when you need it...

I'll let others comment on the quantity since I did a QuickBuild :) but be mindful of the expiration date for sealants - you can't buy them with the kit then hope it'll still be usable a year later. I usually buy sealant only when I get to the point of using it.

There are no "standard conduit holes" :) The holes that come in the quickbuilds (and that plans tell you to enlarge yourself) are 5/8" and meant for plain wires bundled together without any conduit, but another Van's document lets you further enlarge them to 3/4" - that is enough to snuggly fit the conduits sold by Van's, which afaik are .81 diameter.

That's a question you can ask Van's, but the lead times themselves are not precise and just an estimate. Shipping from OR took about 5 days for me (in CA).

Thanks for the responses and suggestion everyone.

Any Wing specific tools I should have? I'm ordering the 12" back rivet set and back riveting bucking bar.