I'll also share the list of non-kit-standard things I got for/did on/will do on the wings:

• Gretz pitot mast
• Garmin GAP26 heated regulated pitot
• AoA pressure line
• Conduit for the wires
• Clickbond fasteners (CB4020) for a second conduit (to split power from other signals)
• Aveo Ziptips wing tips (I excluded the Van's wingtips from the order, and I'm also going to remove the wider part of the bottom rudder fairing that's meant for a light, in favor of this)
• Clickbond wingtip attachment kit
• Archer wingtip NAV antenna
• Fuel return line
• GSA28 servo (as someone mentioned, electric trim went to the right wing for that reason)
• GMU22 magnetometer in the wingtip
• Newton locking fuel caps
• OAT probe
• Static wicks
• Little fairings for the fuel drains from AircraftExtras
• Cleaveland machined tie-down rings
• WIP: I'm attaching a small (but strong) magnet to my pitot cover, and putting a small magnetic switch inside the mast so that I get a warning on the EFIS if it's still on. Still need to do some testing on the effect of pitot heat on that switch/wires.
• I *skipped* installing the standard stall warning, in favor of the AoA probe
• I got a pair of speed brakes from Precise Flight, actually tried to figure out how to install them, realized it'd be major surgery on the wing, and then returned those.
• If CiES comes out with their improved fuel level sender, I may replace the standard senders with those - for now I'm using standard senders, didn't want to bother with capacitive.
• I considered the icing detectors from either Aircraft Extras or SafeFlight, and decided not to have them. I will have ice lights on the fuselage (from Aveo).

There's obviously reasons to do all of the above differently, but those were my decisions. Also, needless to say, I enjoy the process of customizing many parts of the build, though it does take a *lot* of extra time.

Definitely
 

"...I enjoy the process of customizing many parts of the build, though it does take a *lot* of extra time..."

That's the truth!

Additional Items to purchase with wings:

1. Gretz Pitot Mast
2. Conduit
3. 4 Fuel Tank Caps (THAT SEAL!!) (Need a purchase source)
4. 4 Fuel Capacitance Senders (need a Purchase source)

I'll get lights, pitot tube, antennas, etc... later when doing the panel. Will leave the wing bottom skin clecoed if need be. I'm a LONG ways before needing avionics and will wait to the VERY last minute to purchase. I plan to hang engine before purchasing electronics.

Do the Vans delux fuel caps have good seals to prevent the outboard leading edge tanks from overflowing the inboard tanks?

Doesn't look like I can order the capacitance fuel sender from grand rapids website. Anyone else sell these senders. Are these senders universal and work with all the EFISs?

Fuel senders
 

I called Grand rapids and they set me up. I used the FL-PE-01 senders and they bent them to fit the -10 tank.

Check this page:

http://www.grtavionics.com/EISandAcc...es10-27-14.pdf

Wing tips
 

Yes, I used the Click Bond wing tip mount kit. Best $$ spent, worked GREAT!

Whats this for? To make the wing tip removable? How is the wing tip mounted per plans?

Step back for a minute
 

Luis,

A lot of great ideas and modifications so far. As you filter through all these, some thoughts:
- The per plans RV-10 wing is a good design.
- Options other than nutplates for stuff like wingtips are ok, but nutplates work as well.
- I have used the Van's fuel floats for 13 years on an RV-8A, and 4 years on the RV-10. They have been trouble free and calibrate to withing a gallon of actual (if you are using any of the current EFIS systems).
- The stock Van's fuel caps will leak unless you adjust them. I find they work well. I would avoid the new plastic caps like Van's is selling with the RV-14 kits.
- You should decide on what pitot you want as some (like the SkyView AOA pitot) have a pitot heat controller that mounts near the pitot. This is easier to install before the bottom skins get put on.
- If you already decided on what Autopilot you want, go ahead and get the roll install kit and put it in.
- If you install a single 1/2" id poly pipe (Lowes) through the wing rib holes instead of the grommets, you will have what you need to do your wing wiring when ever you are ready.
- The Van's provided Landing Lights are meager, but do what I need them to do. You might what to just put that in for now and save a pile of cash. Adding a fancy LED landing light later is always an option, and the prices will only come down.
- I offer the AeroLED nav lights are a good. You can add them later so just running a single three #20 conductor shielded wire to each wingtip now sets you up.
- I also recommend a wingtip VOR/ILS antenna (but I make my own).
- I agree that you should skip installing the standard stall warning. The SkyView AOA works quite well for audio alert.
- I also added a 1/4" fuel line return fitting to the left tank on the RV-10 in case I very found a need. I have not - but it is cheap and easy to do when building the tanks. It is simply capped off on the RV-10 but is connected to the purge return line on the RV-8A (it has the AFP fuel injection system). I used it for shutdown and perhaps twice a year for a hot start. If you get the AFP system you should consider having this line (but just for one tank).

Carl

Wing tip kit
 

This is the place to get the wingtip kit:

https://www.theflightshop.com/Cataspx65.html

Basically, everything you need to use click bond nut plates to attach the wingtips. The idea is that you bond the nut plates to the wingtip flange instead of riveting standard nut plates. Install is MUCH faster as you only need to prepare the screw hole then bond the nut plates in place using the supplied adhesive. You are also only putting 1/3 the huber of holes in the flange.

Saw the system at Oshkosh several years ago and knew that was the way I was going to go...

The folks at The Flight Shop are great to work with, as well...

Luis,

Get RV-9 capacitive probes and make new plates to fit the RV-10 tanks. Ed Kranz has a great writeup about this along with downloadable pdf templates on his site here:
http://www.goodplaneliving.com/capac...level-senders/

You will need a capacitive sensor box to go with it that converts the capacitance to voltage for the efis, but you can worry about that later.

If you are on a budget or just want to have the satisfaction of building them yourself, you can make all of your nav/strobe and landing lights, except maybe the tail strobe. I'll show you mine, they work great.
Get the Duckworks kit for landing lights. Most RV-10s have them. It's difficult to install proper landing lights under the wingtip lenses.

I have the Andair fuel caps and they are awesome, and require no modification, you just need to proseal its flange into the original tank flange. Having lockable caps is not practical sometimes. On fly-ins like OSH you need to be there to fuel your plane. There's no no-key option.

There's really no need for stall warning if you opt for angle of attack, which I recommend you do.

The wingtips are held on by nutplates and #6 countersunk screws. ClickBond makes glueable nutplates that attach to the fiberglass wingtips. I used a bunch of their standoffs in my plane to mount wire bundles to. Good stuff but not cheap.
Riveted nutplates are perfectly fine there. With a nutplate jig it goes real fast. Get a couple of nutplate jigs if you don't have them yet. You'll need #8 and #6.

Lenny

i might be in the minority but I'm going with both. For me it's a cheap and easy back up awareness component.