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SERVICE BULLETIN 13-12-19 Fuel Tank Attach Modification
I acquired an older factory-built fuel tank that has never been used. I am in the process of doing the latest SB and have decided to remove the tank lid to make the job easier and more thorough. So far I have removed all the rivets for the strengthening plates and also all the rivets on the tank lid. I have tried using a single edge safety razor blade to slice thru the Pro-Seal on the lid flange and I’m finding this to more difficult than I had imagined. Does anyone have a suggestion on how to lift the lid off the tank? Does Pro-Seal soften with heat from a hot air tool?
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A little heat probably can't hurt any. I found it easier to use a utility knife so I had a handle with which to get some leverage. Taking the lid off is a good call... it's much easier to do the modifications that way. Just be careful about the vent line.
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Here's how I done it ;)
![]() No heat needed, just use a couple of thin knives. |
Thanks guys. I'm heading to the basement with a good amount of determination...
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Have patience... and yes, as Tony pointed out, wedges help too.
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In my original post I stated that I tried to use a single-edge safety razor blade to slice thru the Pro-Seal on the tank lid. I liked the idea of using the thin blade so as not to distort any aluminum, so rather than slicing I now lightly tap the razor blade with a hammer straight through the Pro-Seal joint. The razor blade spans 1-1/2 rivets on the tank lid, which makes it easy to index the razor to the next position. The blade is taped in until the back safety edge meets the tank lid. A pliers is used to pull the razor back out. No twisting or prying is required.
I only mention this technique as a reference in case there is ever a need to peer into the bowels of the tank sometime in the future. - ![]() - ![]() - ![]() - ![]() |
Vans sells a product, search for "POLYGONE 300AG" in their parts list. Perhaps it would be useful?
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I bought some of that when I pulled my tank apart. It works, more or less, but if I were doing it again I don't know that I would bother with it. I can probably scrape sealant off quicker and with less mess. It would be more useful on dimpled parts, I'm sure.
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My 2 cents worth - -
I have done multiple tank updates and have found a flexible blade putty knife and a hammer will take a top off in 10 minutes. I then use a wire cup on an angle grinder to quickly clean old sealant off. You have to be careful how you do the wire brush, but works fast.
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