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-   -   Photos: Really good baffle seals (https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=141528)

Walt 09-26-2019 11:35 AM

My CHT's rarely reach 350 even with the new HC IO370 in Texas..






DennisRhodes 09-28-2019 08:50 AM

I always had difficulty in removing the lower cowl because of the lower cowl inlet baffles which were rivet on at the inlets. The dimensions caused the lower cowl to hit the back of the spinner plate before it would drop down. I removed the riveted on seals and replaced with a removable plate and seal for each side. Each attaches with three screws after the lower cowl is installed. This eliminate the clearance problem and works well. I believe the removable seals allow for more overlap and better seal to the upper than before. Ignore the 1/8 rivet holes where the old baffle was attached at least for now. I like it. Will work on the link later today, thanks

Try this one !! If you notice right pic you can see where the spinner has scratched all the paint off the lower cowl

https://photos.app.goo.gl/Kwx3hDNC4WLfDBcF9

TShort 09-28-2019 10:43 AM

The photo link doesn?t work for me...

DanH 09-28-2019 11:32 AM

Note the nice, even wear marks on Walt's seals. There are a few leaky spots, but not many.

rv8ch 09-28-2019 01:28 PM

removeable lower cowl baffle seal
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by DennisRhodes (Post 1376457)
... I removed the riveted on seals and replaced with a removable plate and seal for each side. Each attaches with three screws after the lower cowl is installed. ...

https://photos.app.goo.gl/Kwx3hDNC4WLfDBcF9

This seems like a good idea - do you have any photos of the inside?

DennisRhodes 09-28-2019 02:21 PM

No, but I might be able to get you a pic of the baffle as removed. Comes out with 3 screws. The baffle mtl is riveted to an alumin plate and has three random located nut plates attached . So the baffle mtl is sandwiched between the alumn and the cowl when attached. Bottom side would show only alumn and nutplates.

RV10Pilot 09-28-2019 02:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rv8ch (Post 1376516)
This seems like a good idea - do you have any photos of the inside?




RV10Pilot 09-28-2019 03:03 PM

here is how it is done on the 10

DennisRhodes 09-28-2019 03:52 PM

Thanks for adding the pic, I 've never been able to do that!! Didnt know that was the RV 10 method but it also works well on my 9 and yes aside from nutplates vs a AN nut, thats exactly same. Having the nutplates allow me to remove the seal before the cowl comes off.

fl-mike 09-28-2019 07:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DanH (Post 1376485)
Note the nice, even wear marks on Walt's seals. There are a few leaky spots, but not many.

That big 'ol hole behind #3 can't be helping! :D

Funguy 09-28-2019 08:26 PM

Really bad baffle seals...
 
I've owned C-GOFG for almost 14 years with hardly a hitch. I decided to treat myself to a small upgrade of a GRT Sport EX and I can safely say it reminds me of the mythical small kitchen renovation. They both seem to blossom into large upgrades/renovations... In this case, I noticed my now fully instrumented engine was running high on CHT #4 in initial climb out (425) but settled out to about 380 in cruise. I am sure it's been running this way its whole life but down the rabbit hole we go. I found this thread and others and have now been fully informed of the errors of my way. So here is the bad.

Front seal backward. Puckered side seals. Oil cooling and cabin air of the back wall. However did it stay in the air?:)

https://www.dropbox.com/s/886k0vgtvp...006E.jpeg?dl=0

I'll post again after the replacement...

PS. Can't seem to get in-line images to work with either Google or Dropbox...

RV8JD 09-28-2019 09:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Funguy (Post 1376622)
I've owned C-GOFG for almost 14 years with hardly a hitch. I decided to treat myself to a small upgrade of a GRT Sport EX and I can safely say it reminds me of the mythical small kitchen renovation. They both seem to blossom into large upgrades/renovations... In this case, I noticed my now fully instrumented engine was running high on CHT #4 in initial climb out (425) but settled out to about 380 in cruise. I am sure it's been running this way its whole life but down the rabbit hole we go. I found this thread and others and have now been fully informed of the errors of my way. So here is the bad.

Front seal backward. Puckered side seals. Oil cooling and cabin air of the back wall. However did it stay in the air?:)

https://www.dropbox.com/s/886k0vgtvp...006E.jpeg?dl=0

I'll post again after the replacement...

PS. Can't seem to get in-line images to work with either Google or Dropbox...

Here's your pic:


koupster 09-28-2019 09:43 PM

Funguy,

The back seal is puckered also. Once the new seals are installed and settle in, you can put a bright LED light in through the oil door and view through the intakes looking for light leaks.

Cheers, David
RV-6A A&P


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