Stick switches
 

Another thread got me thinking about the switches on the pilot/co-pilot sticks. I had a plan and even drew up schematics. I included a pilot/co-pilot selctor switch. I know every plane is unique to the builder but there must be some common functions and great ideas.

What I would like is feedback on what others did, why and what they would do different. What would your ideal stick switch functions look like?
Since I plan a Dynon panel and Tosten Military left and right grips, let's assume their switch options.
Trigger: PTT
Thumb (toggle or pushbutton): maybe a momentary for flip-flop on the com
Hat: Trim
Left of hat (toggle or pushbutton): maybe a momentary for Dynon Level function
Right of hat (toggle or pushbutton): maybe a momentary for AP disable

Larry,

I have the standard Infinity Grip in the front and rear both se up exactly the same.

Starter, Coolie Hat for pitch and roll trim, trigger in comm, auto pilot disconnect/ TCS, fuel pump amd flaps.

I did add 2 isolation switches. One to turn off the Coolie Hat and Flaps the other to turn off the rest of the switches.

I did also have the Comm on one of those isol switches....but quickly found out before first flight having it tied into those switches added a ground to the circuit :eek: yup, rendered my comm inop :mad: So now the trigger switch in the back is hot all the time. I figured that was not critical and I would hear the GIB pulling the trigger if they started to play.

One thing I don't know if I would do it different, but you mentioned coolie hat radio "flip-flop". I think that has merit. I rarely use my "roll" trim and it may have been used better with your idea.

As part of my after start checklist I turn OFF a master start switch on the panel next to my Pmag switches so as not to engage the starter inadvertently.

I have been happy with all those switches on the stick and starting the engine with both hands on throttle and stick.

Last, I have always looked at the rear switches as a backup to the front stick. What if my starter switch failed? I can use the rear stick to start and get home.



Good luck,

I used the Infinity grip on two planes. Switch use is typical:
- Trigger, PTT
- Top Hat, Trim
- Green momentary, Auto Pilot disengage
- Toggle switch (momentary down and stays in the up position), flaps
- Black thumb switch, comm flip/flop
- Blue pinky switch, not used (easy to bump so I find it better to just not use it)

But - be careful on what you are doing and how you will use this. For example, if you have a co-pilot with the same grip you want to be able to select Pilot or Co-pilot to have control of the flaps and trim. The last thing you want is a non-pilot putting out flaps when you are at cruise speed. What I did:

- I have a DPDT locking toggle switch on the panel that provides the common ground for the trim and flaps to either the pilot or co-pilot grip. So when in the pilot position the co-pilot trim and flaps do not work. This also provides a backup if your iPad or whatever breaks off the pilot top hat.

- I added a "Flap Permissive" switch on the panel that allows the flaps to come up, but will not let you lower the flaps if the switch is not in the permissive position. This prevents deploying flaps if you iPad or whatever bumps the flap switch while flying. Procedure is to put out take off flaps, move the switch to the non-permissive position, take off and retract the flaps when passing through 85 kts. On landing, once in the pattern put the switch in the permissive position.

Some other thoughts:
- non of these switches can handle the current for a starter solenoid. If you really want the starter on the stick you need to add a relay. As one that had a stick starter switch I can tell you I rewired for a push button on the panel after the second flight.
- Same goes for the fuel pump. If you have a typical fuel injected engine electric pump you will need to add a relay as the switch cannot handle the pump current.

Carl

I too have Infinity grips and my switch/button layout is similar to Carl's :
- Trigger, PTT
- top outboard thumb (green button), A/P disconnect & CWS
- China hat, roll & pitch trim
- top inboard thumb (minature toggle (on)-off-(on)), flaps
- mid-stick thumb (black button), Vertical Power message & checklist ack
- pinky (blue button), Com1 flip-flop

The copilot grip is a mirror of that layout and is controlled through my Vertical Power VP-200. I can disable the whole Co-pilot grip with 2 button pushes.

John,
Where did you have your engraving done on your control stick?

Ahhh... David! All an illusion :D

They are only Ptouch clear with White lettering lables.

I put them on for the airworthness inspection and thought they would only last a year and then have to put new ones on.

Funny thing is, in almost 6 years they still look like new!

No need for engraving or labels on the grip. Make up a simple placard for the panel that says what each button does by color. The one I made up is 1" tall and 1" wide printed out from a word file. Cut it down and tape to the panel with a piece of clear packing tape. The FSDO was fine with this and it looks like it belongs there.

Carl

For me, Less is More
 

On the other side of the coin, I kept my stick wiring dead simple.

For the pilot, I have 1 switch for PTT and a HAT switch. I use the HAT for Elevator Trim (fore - aft), Left is AP disco & Right is Com 1 flip-flop and I could live without the flip-flop.

For the Co-pilot, NO switches on the stick. Co-pilot PTT is on the panel in front of the co-pilot. I moved the co-pilot PTT from the stick to to panel when I re-did my panel this year.

I can reach the panel mounted Flap switch & Fuel pump switch with my right thumb when my hand is on the throttle.

For maintenance, make sure you can remove the co-pilot stick without too much hassle. You'll be under that panel more than you think.

What clever methods of labeling have folks come up with? Maybe a graphic on the side of the fuselage?

It adds a small amount of complexity, but I recommend installing a relay bank to drive anything you want to run from the stick. Starter and fuel pump will need a relay anyway, and I think trims need relays too if i'm not mistaken. Just bite the bullet and build a relay panel up front somewhere. That way, all wires from the stick come back to one common place to be dealt with. PTTs could just go to an adjacent terminal block.

Then, you can drive the relays with the switches on either stick, using smaller wires, and use a common ground return for each stick that could be switched, to disconnect either stick. Also, wire the start switch on the stick in series with a "starter enable" switch on the panel, to prevent accidental starter firings when you're moving your iPad around the cockpit in flight (or maybe when your baggage is fumbling for their air sickness bag...).