Removing/Installing lower cowl by yourself
 

HI all,

I've been wondering if anyone has built a cradle or come up with a handy way of removing and re-installing the lower cowl by themselves.

I can get the upper cowl off and on just fine by myself. But I always get help with the lower cowling. I'd like to find a safe sensible way of removing/re-installing the lower cowl by myself.

My present idea is to size two saw horses to be situated ahead of the induction inlet and a little bit ahead of the aftermost part of the cowl.

I was thinking of putting 8" foam on the saw horses so that nothing gets scratched.

But I thought I'd check with the collective wisdom of the VAF.

I've tried a forum search but I haven't found anything specific to this question.

Thanks!

Lower cowl
 

I secured my upper gear leg fairings with 4 screws so when I remove the lower cowl I have to remove the 2 screws that attach to the lower cowl so it can be removed. But to put on the lower cowl the upper fairings make a great shelf to hold each side as I gently slide the cowl in place. Then with one hand holding the cowl snug the other hand slips the firewall hinge pin in place..;)

Sorry, no pictures...

I built a plywood platform which sits on top of the engine. There are two rails at the ends (2x4) which sit on the tappet covers.

Crossways on top of the platform there is a piece of 2" PVC pipe about a foot longer than the platform, cradled between a couple of long screws at each side of the platform.

Each end of the pipe has sufficient cordage to reach the lower cowling when it is sitting on the ground. I place a piece of protective foam under the cowling to prevent scratching. There are hooks on the end of the cords which hook into my Skybolts on the cowl at about the fore / aft balance point.

On each end of the pipe, and in the middle, are two holes drilled through at 90 degrees to each other. These allow a screwdriver to be used to turn the pipe like a windlass, lifting the cowl. The centre holes allow the insertion of another screwdriver to keep the pipe from turning (and unwinding) when you need to stop to adjust the position of the cowl.

Works very well...

Very Clever!

There is an old thread that had a few photos of various tricks folks had come up with to make the bottom cowl removal easier for a solo operation.

Over the years there have been a few threads dealing with this.

Here is one, but the photo is gone. However, the idea is explained well enough to figure it out. http://www.vansairforce.com/communit...ad.php?t=92666

Wow - great idea generator! I have a post that sits in the saddle hole of my floor jack with a rocking frame to hold the lower cowl. All fine for at the hangar, but a more portable unit for traveling is another matter. A light weight lifting mechanism to get it close with ropes sounds like a grand idea to work on.

During the build, I fab'd two small, low benches from scrap lumber from the engine crate. They're around 16" to 18" tall (... I used them on either side of the fuse when finishing all the interior and panel wiring.) I place one of those benches crosswise under the fwd edge of the fuse (immediately aft of the cowl) and then stack blocks of lightweight foam on either side of the center bottom cowl "bulge". I can rest the aft edge of the cowl on the foam at exactly the right height. That lets me fasten one Camlok on each side. From then on, it's a simple wrestling match between me, the nose gear leg, the 3 blade prop, and the intake snout. :) Sorry I don't have a pic.
I don't look forward to the wrestling match, but it IS solo do-able.

I built a carpeted cradle from scrap lumber that matches the underside of the bottom cowl and sits on a small rolling work bench. Push it up to the cowl, pull the piano wires, drop the cowl a little as I pull the cradle/bench forward. Tail dragger/forward facing servo for flat bottom cowl and two blade prop make it a piece of cake solo operation.

I have an A model.

To remove the lower cowl, I tape a piece of file folder material on the nose fairing to prevent scratches.

Then I put a cleco into the center #8 nutplate at the nose of the lower cowl on each side.
I wrap a ratchet strap around the clecos and over the prop hub. This supports the front of the lower cowl.

Then I wrap a ratchet strap around the main section of the lower cowl just behind the rear baffle.

I remove the cowl fasteners and lower the front of the cowl. I loosen the rear strap a bit so the cowl will tilt down and slide the front baffle rubber off the inlet ramps.

I get in front of the plane, unhook the front strap from the clecos, and pull the cowl forward off the nose gear fairing.

It sounds complicated, but I've done it so many times, it really doesn't take any time at all.

Another option
 

An old thread here http://www.vansairforce.com/communit...design+lifting

Go to entry 8. It works for my RV6 so might work for your aircraft as well.

Clive Whittfield