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-   -   Oil Cooler Bypass?? (https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=133629)

Al RV8 04-30-2016 08:42 AM

Does anyone have the part numbers for the viscosity valve and where to order?

Thanks!

Rupester 04-30-2016 05:47 PM

For whatever reason, the O-320 D1A and D2As don't dump much heat in the oil. A number of flyers with those engines, me included, have observed this. I have exactly the same issue with my IO-320 D2A in the winter months, even with the oil cooler fully blocked off. I flew in 24F OAT a few weeks ago and never saw the upside of 158F O.T. Less than 2 weeks later the OAT was up to 72 and I again flew (with the oil cooler stilled 100% blocked off) and my max OT was 191F.

A couple years ago, one of our local hangar curmudgeons observed, "For whatever reason, the O-360s seem to dump a lot more heat to the oil than the 320s." That does in fact seem to be the case. :)

selhardt 04-30-2016 07:03 PM

I installed a valve and relief in my RV-8
 
Here is what I did. Two winters and summers and it just works.


http://www.vansairforce.com/communit...=104139&page=2

I have pictures of the install - pm me if you want them.

DartDriver 05-07-2017 09:47 PM

Low Oil Temps
 
I've been working low oil temps for a year now, and my performance is like you guys ... RV-8 with IO-360 M1B. What I've learned to date:

1. Vernatherm works as advertised. Tested proper expansion on my stove using a candy thermometer.
2. Oil Temp gauge works as advertised.
3. Installed cockpit-controllable oil-cooler vent (fully blocked) only helps to increase oil temp in warmer weather or higher power settings.
3. Cruising around at 10K ft., at 45% power, LOP, economy cruise, 35 degrees OAT, I see 160 degrees if I'm lucky...more like 150 degrees at 30 degrees OAT.

My conclusion is I've done a good job sealing up the cowling leaks (good), but everything works so well that the stock Van's intake/exhaust is too large for the cooling job. As a point of reference, Sam James cowling reduces intake area by 40%.

I've moved onto experimenting w/ smaller intake/exhaust areas, and encourage others to do the same. Will share my results once my grass strip has a chance to dry out (this has been a very wet spring for us in central NY!).

First step is to reduce the intake area by 25%. I've done this using foam strips inside the intakes and can't wait to fly!

Steve Melton 05-08-2017 10:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rupester (Post 1075044)
For whatever reason, the O-320 D1A and D2As don't dump much heat in the oil. A number of flyers with those engines, me included, have observed this. I have exactly the same issue with my IO-320 D2A in the winter months, even with the oil cooler fully blocked off. I flew in 24F OAT a few weeks ago and never saw the upside of 158F O.T. Less than 2 weeks later the OAT was up to 72 and I again flew (with the oil cooler stilled 100% blocked off) and my max OT was 191F.

A couple years ago, one of our local hangar curmudgeons observed, "For whatever reason, the O-360s seem to dump a lot more heat to the oil than the 320s." That does in fact seem to be the case. :)

this is same for me. I don't worry about the oil temp on my -9. Block the oil cooler in the Winter and open it in the Summer and just fly it.

JBPILOT 05-08-2017 10:38 AM

No research at all, but - -
 
On ROTAX we can install a thermostat that works very well. Does not allow oil to go thru cooler until up to therm temp range. Uses 1/2" ID hose. Maybe that is an issue. Just noting.

Rupester 05-08-2017 01:04 PM

Check your oil analyses ....
 
I used fret over low oil temps, but eventually decided to just watch my oil analyses carefully, since the lab always tests for water content. I've yet to have an oil report show any water at all. So - following the advice above - I block the cooler in winter, open it summer, and just "fly the plane." :)

lr172 05-08-2017 09:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rupester (Post 1171652)
I used fret over low oil temps, but eventually decided to just watch my oil analyses carefully, since the lab always tests for water content. I've yet to have an oil report show any water at all. So - following the advice above - I block the cooler in winter, open it summer, and just "fly the plane." :)

same here. I am not in the camp that believes running oil temps in the 140-160* range causes damage. It is really a matter of temp & run time, along with the oil's retained water volume. I have all confidence that limited water will evaporate at 140* on a 1.5 hour run. However, load up your oil with water by a bunch of successive short runs and you'll struggle to get the water out at lower temps. High temps as well. The lower the temp, the longer the run needs to be to get rid of water. However, an engine that doesn't see short runs does not create a significant build up of water that needs to be removed.

Larry


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