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Mcmaster Carr Door Seal for RV-10
i know a lot of people are using the mc master door seal for the rv10, but does anybody have a model number or any other info i can use to order the door seal?
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Few options. Difference is the thickness of the material and which side the barb is on. I ordered the 1120A313
1120A311 1120A411 1120A313 1120A413 http://www.mcmaster.com/#bulb-seals/=yoyae2 E |
I went an easier route using either 3/8" or 1/2" tall self adhesive door seals from McMaster (Weather-Resistant EPDM Foam Rubber Bulb Seal, Adhesive Back, 1/2" Overall Width, 1/4" ID). On now for three years and are still like the day I installed.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/121/3497/=ypfjzg These attach to the door, not the door frame. Carl |
This summer I ordered 100 ft of 1120A313 (3/8" Diameter Bulb on Side, Fits 1/4) in anticipation the doors. I've been hammering away on cabin top items since that time and am to a point now that I can trim the door openings to fit the seal.
I found a PDF showing some people's installations and it's helped a bit... http://forums.matronics.com/download.php?id=32109 I have a few questions to those that have gone through this process. - Should I wait till I have the doors put together and the cabin top in place to cut out the opening? Might make working the fiber glass a bit challenging. - If I don't have to wait is there a standard lip depth that people have been using? That PDF has some opening measurements but to be honest I can't make sense of them. - If I have to build up depth do I just do that on the outside, meaning do I say put two layups of clothe on the outside and then trim, sand to the 1/4? Thanks for any info. |
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Door Seal
I used Ivan's measurements and rough cut the cabin top prior to installation...the measurements were pretty close.
http://ivankristensen.phanfare.com/2292606_3334806 I made a guide for my dremel and a permagrit burr to grind the thicker parts of the remaining flange to 1/4". Make sure to take the time to create a uniform gap between the door and the cabin top. Time spent here will pay of later. I then used a piece of mcmaster seal to form the thin areas of the flange position with an epoxy/milled glass/cabo mix. Basically, I filled the seal with epoxy mix and then put the seal on the flange in it's proper position. When the epoxy cured, i pulled the seal off...yes, it ruins the piece of seal... The result was a uniform 1/4" flange edge that the mcmaster seal fits perfectly. |
Where did you find Ivan's measurements? I only see pics on his site!
Thank you! |
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I think you need to go to the doors section and above the pictures there is a next button. I think they start on page 5 of 9...
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Going off the pictures it looks like the following measurements;
1 1/8" for top flange 1" around for both fwd and aft side flanges 1" on the bottom flange I spent a few hours at lunch today trimming to these dimensions. There's a few spots on the sides where I had removed too much material in the past. So will need to build that back to 1". Another question I have is am I supposed to sand flat the rain gutter lip so that the door facing flange area is flatish? Essentially remove the concave part and then build up the back for the seal? The pictures look like there may be a bit of a lip, but really not all that much. Thanks |
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