Electric Trim ?
 

My dad just bought an RV-7A in Raleigh, NC. We are having someone out there put in a new Superior IO360 engine as well as put in different lights in the wingtips. Long story short, he has everything apart and I'm thinking now would be a great time to at least run the wire for electric trim.

My Dad and I will be flying the plane back to Phoenix later this month after it is ready so my question to everyone here who has built an RV-7 is how hard would it be for us to install electric trim AFTER we get it back to Phoenix? Should we have our mechanic in Raleigh run a wire now while everything is apart? If so what kind of wire? Or do I need to figure out which electric trim system to put in the aircraft and buy it now and have that system put in place so we can hook it up later? Or Should we just wait until we get the plane back here in Phoenix and do it ourselves?

Thanks for your input.

My question is why?

I have 666 hours on my -9 with manual trim and never once have I wished for electric trim.

Tend to agree.
You'd never have to worry about runaway trim.

I'm a Navy guy and love electric trim! It makes flying easy.

My RV-7A isn't flying yet, but I installed all electric trim. The pitch trim is a single wire bundle that runs through the fuselage back to the tail. It should be relatively easy either way. The little servo mounts inside the HS near the trim tab. Again, pretty easy either way. But I'm not sure exactly what you mean when you say he has everything apart. Do you mean, inside the cabin? Behind the panel?

The roll trim is all under the seats. Access isn't too difficult there either. The hardest part will be wiring up the power for it and the controls for it, depending on whether you want switches on the panel, or a hat switch on your stick.

I'm not sure it makes much difference, now vs. later, but I hope my input helps a little.

I agree with Bill. There are pros and cons to electric/manual trim with no clear winner. I'm guessing you are used to electric trim on the aircraft you've been flying. You could fly with the manual trim for a while to try it before making a decision.
Even if you do the work yourself it would cost several hundred dollars to switch.
I think it would be a difficult job for a non builder. It's not just a question of wiring, there would be quite a lot of alteration required to the left elevator involving some riveting in a confined space and then finally rebalancing the elevator. You would be removing quite a lot of lead from the counterbalance arm. You would probably need to reglass after altering the amount of lead in the counterbalance.
All told, tons of work for no tangible gain. I built my 7 with electric but would be quite happy with manual.

Ok,
Thanks everyone for the information! I mean that he has the seats and all of the interior removed. I'm building an RV-10 so I'm sure I can figure out how to do the work should I go that route. It sounds like waiting is the best option.

I should have said "add lead to the counterweight", since the motor is heavier.

Had electric - like manual
 

Had electric on the -8A and 10 ----- had stuck trim on the -8A, and the 10 "worried" me. (The -10 has "very" effective trim)

Now, I have had electric on many of the certified aircraft I have owned --- liked it very much --- BUT, they all had the manual option that would permit "reset" if I had stuck, or worse, runaway trim (had that twice!).

I have manual on the -6A ------ If I had a choice, I will stick with manual, on the RVs--

Take care,

Ron

Hi Jeff, did the 7A come with a IO360 that you are replacing?