VAF Forums - Old baffle kit vs new

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Old baffle kit vs new

I've been offered a baffle kit from 2003 which presumably is what I have seen referred to as the old baffle kit.
Would anybody who has used the older kit care to comment on whether the new is a bit less work, or a lot less work, or in a totally different league from the old? I'm not opposed to using the older kit but would welcome opinions.
Thanks.

Many people have built from the old baffle kit - no doubt about it (and I am one of them. I have also built or been part of building several of the new ones. Totally different league in terms of ease of building IMHO.

We needed a baffle kit for another (non-RV) project - we bought a kit from Van's because it fits the motor so well - we'll just trim it to fit the cowl (the same way you do for the RV's).

Paul

Thanks Paul, that's exactly the sort of info I needed.

Are you mounting the oil cooler on the baffles in the standard location? I believe the newer kits have a tougher aluminum alloy for this section that may help to reduce/prevent cracking.

Quote:

Originally Posted by rightrudder (Post 988784)

Are you mounting the oil cooler on the baffles in the standard location? I believe the newer kits have a tougher aluminum alloy for this section that may help to reduce/prevent cracking.

This might be so - three things I found from research are 1. Angle on the vertical corner at the LR of the baffles, 2. Strong link on the left side from the vertical angle over the the top rocker cover screw, and 3. a brace from the inboard flange of the cooler either to the back of that same rocker screw, or over to the case.

OP - If/when you get that kit, let me know and I will send the metal thicknesses from the "new" kit for that cooler corner.

When was the crossover from old to new version?

Thanks,
Russ

Thanks for the info folks.
I'm not yet decided on the oil cooler location, but have read plenty on the rear baffle cracks when no reinforcement is used, so that's a good point on the material thickness and type.
If I do end up buying this kit I'll report back on that area.

Quote:

Originally Posted by BillL (Post 988895)

I would disagree with some of these.

1. Yes, on the angel on the vertical corner by the #4 cylinder.

2. Yes, on a brace from the right side of the oil cooler to a stiffener on the side baffle of the #4 cylinder. (Disregard the nyloc fastener, that was changed before the first engine run.)

3. NO on any brace that spans more than one cylinder or goes from a cylinder baffle to the engine case. The cylinders are not part of the case and move around a good bit so anything that ties one cylinder to another or from one cylinder to the engine case has a good chance of experiencing cracking issues. (Note, fiberglass plenums give enough that they do not experience this problem but I have seen aluminum plenums with cracks.)

If you go with #1, which I like much better than the other options, you will have to file down the corner of the angle aluminum so it nestles in the corner of baffles. Not a big deal but something you will have to do.

Quote:

Originally Posted by N941WR (Post 988992)

I've done both baffle kits and didn't find the older set that confusing. I had to modify the old set to fit on an O-290, which is different than an O-320 or -360.

The new baffle kit I installed went on an O-360 and since I had done the older kit, it was pretty straightforward. The new style kit has better instructions and CAD drawings rather than some copies of a copy of a copy of some old hand drawings. If you can read a drawing, which by the time to you get to this point you can, you won't have a problem with the older baffle kit.

I would disagree with some of these.

1. Yes, on the angel on the vertical corner by the #4 cylinder.

2. Yes, on a brace from the right side of the oil cooler to a stiffener on the side baffle of the #4 cylinder. (Disregard the nyloc fastener, that was changed before the first engine run.)

3. NO on any brace that spans more than one cylinder or goes from a cylinder baffle to the engine case. The cylinders are not part of the case and move around a good bit so anything that ties one cylinder to another or from one cylinder to the engine case has a good chance of experiencing cracking issues. (Note, fiberglass plenums give enough that they do not experience this problem but I have seen aluminum plenums with cracks.)

If you go with #1, which I like much better than the other options, you will have to file down the corner of the angle aluminum so it nestles in the corner of baffles. Not a big deal but something you will have to do.

I think we are on the same page, Bill. I tied the brace to the center of the cooler to prevent twisting. It seem others have had success with a brace back to the case too. I like the short connection.

I've got 1800 hours on the Val's baffles, and my brace goes to a boss on the case Bill. The inboard side of the oil cooler is about half-way out the cylinder, so it is kind of a coin flip which way it should go - remember that the baffle just inboard of that point is tied to the case.

In any case, I believe that brace does a lot to enhance baffle life!