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Hmm.....
Is it me or does that hole look slightly countersunk? If so you need to rethink the repair. A doubler may be necessary.
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next time
No comment on this one, but next time, if you need to drill out a #4 rivet, drill all the way thru with a (3/32") drill, then drill off the head. Then try knocking out the shank. Sometimes drilling a small hole help the rivet relax, making it easier to knock out. hope this helps, good luck bob
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I presume you will clean up any burr or scratch on the damaged surface right? The other rivets look real nice:o
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The wealth of knowledge contained in these forums as well as the willingness to share said knowledge is mind blowing. With that said:
-I think that the picture may create an illusion of the hole being worse than it actually was. The missing paint surrounding the hole adds to the "counter sink" effect. Although there was a slight counter sink feel to the hole, it is definitely not counter sunk or dimpled. -Luckily I have many local resources available that I converse with on a nearly a daily basis. I brought the spar to two separate IA's (one of whom has been doing structural repair for 45 years!) who both said to just drive another rivet (which I did). -Tom - I never figured out the C-Frame method. I've see videos of it being done on the EAA website but either I'm not understanding correctly or my tools are not compatible (rivet set, rivet gun, c frame, etc...) FWIW, I've got the Cleaveland C-Frame and basic rivet sets as well. I tried putting the cupped set in the bottom of C-Frame but just wasn't comfortable with the lateral movement. In the end, the further I get in to building the more detailed my eye is when looking at production aircraft (almost daily) and realize they are far from perfect when it comes to rivets. |
Quote:
A step by step procedure is detailed in construction manual Section 5 available HERE. |
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