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Tipup canopy gap question...
I've been searching around the forum and found a bunch of info on tip-up canopy gap. On the pilot's side where the canopy skin meets the forward skin, the canopy skin is at its maximum 1/8" proud of the forward skin.
I've been flying like crazy since receiving my airworthiness certificate, planning to address this later. But I got wondering yesterday if this is dangerous or potentially damaging to the canopy. Could the canopy be ripped off because of this? Here's a picture. ![]() Thanks, Mike- |
Mines bigger than that
I don't like the cold air that blows in. My plan was to create a faired flox and resin bump in front of the gap, but it's getting too cold up here now.
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I had the same problem and used fiberglass to build up the area ahead of the tip-up.... its now painted and looks great.
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Jason,
Please tell me more about your approach, because I have the same gap problem Mike has...and I blame Bugsy 'cause he helped me Sika the canopy. :D What did you mix with the epoxy...some sort of filler? Or is it straight epoxy with cabosil? How did you level it to the same level as the canopy skin? |
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Nice Jason..
Wow, that looks nice Jason!
This kind of stuff is so hard to do now that I'm flying. I just don't want to take the plane down for long and not be able to fly it. Perhaps the middle of the winter. I can't even get myself to put the pants on because the airplane might be down for a couple of days. What if there's a beautiful day to fly during that time? I suppose I might be convinced when the air coming in through the "scoop" is cold enough to overwhelm the heat. Michael- |
I have that same problem and built a small ramp in front using micro then sanding it smooth. Turned out nicely, but now I have to re-do it a little higher after installing seals under the canopy rails.
If you plan on installing something like bruceh and I did, do it before you build up in front of canopy. The locking lugs at rear will cause the canopy assembly to pivot slightly on this rubber seal, in turn raising the front of the canopy assembly around 2mm, ruining the perfect alignment you just achieved. Don't ask me how I know... :mad: "Micro" is short for microballoons, tiny, tiny glass spheres finer than talcum powder that you mix into an epoxy mixture to create a kind of slurry. The more microballoons, the thicker ("stiffer") the slurry. For this application, you want it stiff enough that when you scoop your paddlepop stick in the mixture, it doesn't run off, instead forming little micro-mountains like this on the stick. All up, not including painting, this should take no more than 2 hours to do. 30 minutes to mix and apply the micro, and 90 mins at most a couple of days later sanding it smooth. Step 1: Determine if you actually have a problem. :p ![]() Yep. We do. ![]() Step 2: Mix up a stiff micro mixture, apply it to the gap and rough it to shape. ![]() Step 3: Sand smooth. ![]() Step 4: Crackatinny. ![]() |
I have the same issue and will just use filler to fair it. I have been using Rage (Poly Filler, i.e. Bondo) because I have it and am comfortable with it (painted several cars). I have avoided epoxy due to my unfamiliarity with sanding it and the longer cure time. Poly filler is ready to sand in 15 minutes and it sands pretty easy.
On the issue Vlad raised about the rear canopy. I assumed that would leak without some sealer. While my rear canopy is fitted and drilled, I haven't installed it yet. I plan to use some sealant between the plexi and skin. I will probably forgo silicone to avoid paint issues. May use some permatex #2, but wondering what others may have used here. Larry |
I have helped fix this problem on a couple of RV's by getting the holes in the frame hinge arms welded closed and then drilling new holes while the canopy is pulled down tightly.
I will describe the process if you are interested. It is not very difficult and doesn't take much time as long as you have access to someone with experience welding 6061 alum. |
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