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The next larger rivet would start getting close to knifing the edge, and it would be breaking the minimum edge distance rule on the wing skins by about .015" |
Why phone Vans again? RVbuilder2002 has told you why you should not consider using the damaged spar. He knows what he talking about.
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That's why
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I am absolutely not saying that you should not follow Van's advise. But $1600 is worth double checking previous communications. |
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The lesson to be learned is to set up the microstop in some scrap aluminum before hacking up the expensive parts.
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I'm not sure I understand, if you fit the skin over the countersink and there is no play, and the rivit fits in the skin (because it was dimpled to fit that rivit) , and rivets expand to fill voids, where is the failure point?
Still $1600.00 in the overall sceme of everything is not to bad. Mike |
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I would still put some playdoh or clay in the countersink, place the dimpled scrap with a rivet and hit it lightly with the rivet gun or light hammer. You will then know what type of gap you are dealing with. EDIT: Disregard. I just ran a quick test on how I have been doing it and find that I have tight fitting sheets with .008" head depth. That left me a countersink diameter of .200" I don't think that the OP's fittings can be tight with a hole diameter of .230". That would leave the outer hole diameter around .050" bigger than spec. Larry |
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Skylor RV-8, Flying |
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If the fit is that critical, and you over countersink by .003 inches wouldn't you be able to add a piece of .003 aluminum to the top of the spar. Match hole drill it, dimple it, and it should be a perfect fit. .003 is less then the thickness of a piece of typing paper.
If vans says to replace the spar I would without any doubt replace the spar. It would make me sleep better at night. Mike |
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