Yep, torque seal is only good until the first flight, or it dries, whichever occurs first. It's used as an indicator for a snapshot in time, that's it.

Thank you fellas, lots of good stuff in this thread for new-bees like me.

All good info. One more thing I didn't see in any of the threads. The smooth appearing metal in a joint build-up may look smooth to the naked eye. But look at it through a high powered microscope, and it looks like the view crossing the Rockies. It's the tops of all those peaks that get worn down or permanently compressed during operation, and that relaxes the stretch of the bolt thus loosening the joint.

And remember, torque is just an approximation of bolt stretch. Take 100 "identical joints", strain gage 100 bolts (only done in a lab), torque them all to identical values, and you will have 100 different measures of bolt stretch (strain). We did this often in the auto lab where I once worked.

In structures we don't use torque wrenches - too many variables. Part-turn-of-nut is the preferred method as it's more reliable, or using special load-indicator washers that have known deformation characteristics.

Here is a follow-up question as I am now actively checking the torques of my engine mount:
The 4 Rotax bolts that I need to check are not easily accessible but one is particularly challenging: the top right side one which hides behind the right carburator. It looks like I will have to remove the carb to acces it. Any advice from those who have been through this? Note that I have the modified shroud "easing" the access to the two upper bolts.

Check the thread you posted on this for a description on moving the intake manifold. Quick and easy.