RV-10 door pin travel question
 

Does anyone have a picture of the door pin in both closed and open position?

Seems the pin has 1.25 inch travel, but the blocks are only 0.75 inch deep.
So how do the pins stay in the blocks when open? Do they protrude 3/4 inch when open? If this is the case, how do you get a close seal (fore and aft direction)

Mike,
I am not sure what you are saying. I have the Plane Around center latch system, and my handle rotates 180 degrees. My pins are essentially flush with the door delrin guides when the door is open and when the door is latched, extend through the delrin block mounted on the fuse, into the cabin vertical support and protrude around 1/2"-3/4" as I recall.

THANKS!!!
 

humm...
If i make my pins flush when open, they will protrude 1.25" when closed. This is a 90-deg turn on the handle (stock setup)

maybe I have answered my own question here.:o

If I make them flush when open, then they will push into the door frame whn closed (like their supposed to). But when open, they will have 3/4" of block to keep them aligned.

I think what messed me up was the longer blocks I saw from Plane Around. So, now I'm not sure why they make them longer.

Mike,
You should really consider the center latch system for several reasons. The main being safety, but if you plan on using the McMaster Carr seal, you will need the extra pull the center cam provides. It is impossible with the center latch, to screw up closing the door properly.

door pins
 

I completely agree with Bill. I have just finished aligning the door pins, magnetic switches and the Planearound cam locking system.

I tried to misalign the doors and operate the door handle but couldn't.

i could only get my door safety lights to operate when the door pins were fully extended into the door frame.

I am using the Mcmaster door seals as well. good luck

I have considered the Plane Around latch. But I am not completely happy with their design. So for now I am going to "roll my own" center door latch.

I am using the McMaster Carr seals, but there is too much gap. I have not joined the door skins yet, but there is more than 1/4" gap in places. This wont be taken up when the door is joined and trimmed. There is a larger seal available, but I don't want to go that way because I would not be happy with the look.

Just a little picky I guess.

Just make sure that when closed, the pins go thru the airframe, not just the delrin blocks; and the bevel should be all the way thru, so the entire round pin is thru the airframe, not just the beveled end.

What Bob said is very important.

I had to modify one of my gear racks to get enough travel, due to the previous owner changing things a bit so he could install a lock in the door mechanism.

Drilled a hole and tapped 6-32 into the end of the rack, and removed the rivet that is used to limit rack travel. Washer and screw with blue locktite.

I got just over a quarter inch more travel-----which was enough to fully engage the alum structure.

I'm a little confused by your statement. If you haven't joined the door skins together, how can you measure you have a 1/4" gap? Until they are joined and trimmed, I would think it impossible to make accurate measurements.

Please consider
 

+1 more to the 3rd latch. I hate to beat a dead horse but I feel the need to get preachy for future builders who may see this and are still on the fence about going with the Planearound.com 3rd latch system... DO IT! There is absolutely no reason not to. Its safer, it works great, and its cheap insurance to the most looming possibility for an in-flight accident on the RV-10.

Here is a link to purchase:
http://planearound.com/NEW-DOOR-180-KIT-NEW180.htm


Link to a great retrofit write up:
http://www.vansairforce.com/communit...ad.php?t=55429

Link to a video explanation of the system:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JRF42r5OBhA