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-   -   Bucking rivet in J-Channel (https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=114390)

JDA_BTR 06-22-2014 02:23 PM

Bucking rivet in J-Channel
 
I'm working on my tailcone, and have this rivet to set that is on the bulkhead but hidden by the J-Channel. Oh, if I had only riveted the bulkhead before putting the J-channel in but the plans don't read that way…..

So can anyone give me an idea of the right tool to get in there and buck that rivet. I can't back-rivet. My tungsten bar is too fat. My elevator TE bar is too fat. What bar is ideal - I'll have to get it.

thanks!

Pics:
http://www.atkinsonurology.com/RV14_Pics/IMG_1084.jpg
http://www.atkinsonurology.com/RV14_Pics/IMG_1085.jpg
http://www.atkinsonurology.com/RV14_Pics/IMG_1086.jpg
http://www.atkinsonurology.com/RV14_Pics/IMG_1087.jpg
http://www.atkinsonurology.com/RV14_Pics/IMG_1088.jpg

YellowJacket RV9 06-22-2014 02:34 PM

You may be able to slide something thin in there laying across the new rivet, and then back it up with a bucking bar as close as possible to the J-channel, kind of forming a T if that makes any sense. Hold the steel bar level with one hand and the bucking bar against it with the other. I've used this technique in a few areas, and the shop heads aren't always perfect, but completely acceptable and never visible again anyways. And I feel better for not having broken down and used a blind rivet.

Chris

az_gila 06-22-2014 02:43 PM

You just need a bucking bar with a "foot" on it - like this one from Avery -



Also, maybe one with an angled end might work -

http://www.averytools.com/prodinfo.asp?number=6007

YellowJacket RV9 06-22-2014 02:49 PM

Also a good idea. I have that bar and also ground down the inside radius of the foot so I could get it into tighter areas like the one you have. Don't be afraid to modify bucking bars. Most of mine are 'custom' at this point...

Quote:

Originally Posted by az_gila (Post 890736)
You just need a bucking bar with a "foot" on it - like this one from Avery -



Also, maybe one with an angled end might work -

http://www.averytools.com/prodinfo.asp?number=6007


BillL 06-22-2014 03:06 PM

If the tungsten bar won't lay flat, then you might just have to MAKE a bucking device. I have made at least 6 even with the stable of the tungsten and Avery assortment. I am in the process of making another one to set two rivets on the lower firewall where the motor mount blocks normal methods.

Just be sure to make it as hefty as will fit, and polish the face with one if your your scotchbrite devices.

GHRoss3 06-22-2014 07:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BillL (Post 890740)
Just be sure to make it as hefty as will fit, and polish the face with one if your your scotchbrite devices.

Just be careful that you don't mix a Scotchbrite used on steel and any future aluminum part. Rust can and will form.

JDA_BTR 06-22-2014 09:48 PM

I've read that about the scotchbrite wheel. I've also read of people "dressing" the wheel to even it out. What is used to dress it if not steel?

Ron B. 06-23-2014 04:29 AM

An old file you don't want anymore.

JDA_BTR 06-23-2014 04:16 PM

That's what I thought, and the file would be made of steel? I'm just curious, not wanting to make a fuss?.

Stockmanreef 06-23-2014 05:13 PM

I think that my tungsten bar would work for the job. It also came in handy attaching the flap skin to the spar. the beveled edge is great.






It was $105, but I use it all the time.


Ken

JDA_BTR 06-23-2014 05:19 PM

My bar doesn't have as angled a bevel as yours - I think you are right?.

JDA_BTR 06-23-2014 05:23 PM

Do you know where you got it?

Stockmanreef 06-23-2014 08:24 PM

http://www.tungstenbuckingbars.com/prices.html

I bought the following one:

ETBB04


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