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-   -   Fixing Tank Leaks: N617AR (https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=113891)

jpowell13 06-10-2014 09:34 PM

Doug,

I was wondering if you considered removing the rear baffle since you need access to every bay. I had to cut two holes in my right tank which worked fine but full access would be nice.

[ed. The thought has crossed my mind! I'm only two days in, so I'm still forming a plan. dr]

I just replaced two leaky rivet a on the bottom of the right tank with blind rivets which seems to work fine. Don't remember which tank I built first but all the problems were on the right side.

John

jjconstant 06-11-2014 12:53 AM

I thought I was the only one that managed to break a screwdriver bit! And of course after 7 plus years of using them during the build, it only demonstrates that it can break AFTER the plane is painted:mad:

RKellogg 06-11-2014 06:41 AM

... removing #2 Phillips screws
 
A few years ago the wife gifted me a diminutive little 12v cordless impact driver, which I greeted with a veiled measure of disdain. I have seen power drivers ruin phillips screws for years. Well, one afternoon when the carpal tunnel was acting up I pulled the little impact driver out of the box, and in short order was really impressed at how efficiently it removes stubborn Phillips drive screws without ruining the screw. The impact driver works much better than just putting a #2 Phillips bit in a drill or a driver, can't explain the physics of it. New favorite power tool!

wilddog 06-11-2014 07:02 AM

When I removed my tanks to get the slosh out, several phillips head screws stripped so that the screw driver wouldn't grip them. I used a removal tool that has a drill on one end to drill a shallow hole into the screw, then you use the other end in a very slow turning ccw drill to back the screw out. It worked perfectly! Now at annual, I give each screw a little turn to keep them from seizing. Also that paint cutter tool worked better for me screwed into a countersink thing to control the depth and avoid cutting into the skin. Still didn't work all that well, I think it is best to not paint over the screws.

akarmy 06-11-2014 07:23 AM

Full solidarity with you Doug and others! In case you need a template for the job ahead...

Fuel tank repair by akarmy, on Flickr

:)

compren 06-11-2014 08:43 AM

This is not a timely thread for a guy just starting to seal his first tank...:eek:



-John
Houston
RV-7A (Wings, Tanks)

Gregg Brightwell 06-11-2014 08:47 AM

Bad timing
 
[quote=compren;887608]This is not a timely thread for a guy just starting to seal his first tank...:eek:



Amen John, I have the stiffeners sealed on, and starting ribs......

Gregg

Mel 06-11-2014 09:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by compren (Post 887608)
This is not a timely thread for a guy just starting to seal his first tank...:eek:
-John
Houston
RV-7A (Wings, Tanks)

Just do it correctly and carefully the first time and you won't have worries.
My -6 has been flying for over 21 years with no leaks, as have many, many others.

ccsmith51 06-11-2014 07:11 PM

Talk to your dental hygenist...
 
Twice a year I have me teeth cleaned. I always ask my hygienist if she has any of her torture tools that she wants to get rid of. I always get a few tooth scrapers. They are great for cleaning plugs. And I found, since I had to remove both tanks for the RV-4 I purchased, that they are also great for removing the paint in the screws.

Also, use a very small amount of valve grinding compound on the screwdriver bit. You will be amazed at how much that helps the bit grip the screw....

jarhead 06-13-2014 10:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ccsmith51 (Post 887812)
Also, use a very small amount of valve grinding compound on the screwdriver bit. You will be amazed at how much that helps the bit grip the screw....

THIS.

I use valve grinding compound on stubborn Phillips screws at least once a week. Use it straight from the tube; no need to mix w/ water for this application.


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