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http://trutrakap.com/wp-content/uplo...0RightWing.pdf |
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This is a Dyon servo, not a tru trak. There isn't enough room unless I shave the bolt head and I'm not going to do that. I guess I could shim the servo with washers but that isn't a desirable solution. |
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However looking at the servo drawings show: TT arm height is .768 Dynon arm height .750 Thats not much difference, the TT installs on top with plenty of clearance so maybe the bearing is differnent? |
It is close, very close.
Maybe a thin washer washer will do the trick. Do they make thin versions of those big washers? Also, I like the idea of the rod dropping away, should the nut come off. |
Yes one thin large OD washer is all you need under the head (I get them from Van's), if you're worried about a new lock nut backing off then install a castelated nut/cotter key (but not really necessary).
PS: I always use new nuts and locktite on jesus bolts :D |
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1. Space the servo off the mount with an aluminum sheet spacer (not washers). Move it about a tenth to .125. 2. Fabricate a new mount tab (the bent piece) out of the same material you made the spacer. Nice and thick and stiff. 3. Increase the diameter of the two spacers that hold the tab to the bellcrank as much as you can without overhanging the edge of the tab. This will give you a nice stable base. 4. Fabricate the final spacer with the same large diameter stuff you made the other two spacers from, and make it as short as possible without creating a weird angle and locking up the rod ends anywhere in the travel. 5. Install the travel limiters! Take it with a grain of salt. |
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Only one problem, the idea of washers to raise the servo won't work because the critical dimension is between the top of the servo arm and the bottom of the servo body. No joy. As for suggestion #5, as soon as I can find it, it and the one on the pitch servo will be installed! |
This makes me wonder how many other AP servos from all the manufacturers have been installed w/o a limiter.
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Can the bolt with spacer be extended through to the second parallel plate to avoid having a bending load on a relatively thin plate? Clearly a spacer would be needed to avoid crushing. Having said this, I admit to not having a good mental picture of the geometry and if the bolt hole projects in to material or into a lightening hole. In my head, that would allow the bending on the bolt but a shear load between the bell crank plates to handle the force of the servo. Just a thought. |
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I can't figure out how that would happen...the only test I know of with the Dynon SV is that it sends the servos to full right/full aft (IIRC), and then to full left/full forward, asking you to confirm that's what it's doing (to avoid reversed servo action). But in the case of the ailerons, they hit the stops long before the servo arm gets anywhere *near* an over-center condition on my -7. Are you saying the servos kept running AND generated enough force to bend that part? If so...YIKES. (FWIW, I have the over-center protection thingie from Dynon installed on both my servos...still, they never get anywhere near even those limits). I just couldn't imagine them having that much torque...enough to bend the steel bracket...before they would slip. I know I did a quick test on the ground of the pitch servo during installation, and it did, in fact, slip (with quite a loud bang resonating through the skin) when the elevator hit the stop. (Dynon concurred that's normal, btw...scared me enough to email 'em! :) ). |
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