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Hot tail strobe light (really hot !)
I connected my strobes to make sure the power supply was not going to be un-used to long (see Whelen manual). I just plugged in all three strobes, right in the power supply, so there is no shorts, or wrong wiring. After five minutes the tailstrobe was getting very, very, very hot! You can not touch it, not even after it has been off for 5 minutes, it is really cooking! It will not be possible to install it this way, because the Rudder-bottom-tip will just melt! I used my battery charger to supply power. This is obviously not the best power supply, but as is in the manual, it is best to use lower voltage to allow the capacitors to regenerate if you have not used the system for a longer period. It also mentions that the system will do 3-flashes instead of 2-flashes when the power is below "charging voltage". There is no mention about the tailstrobe getting hot though, in the manual.
Before starting this new thread, I checked using the search option and found that some more people came across this problem and mention it in another thread, but there is no answer for the problem in that thread. Does anybody know what the reason is for this problem and how to solve it? Regards, PilotTonny. |
Hello Tonny,
I don't know if it is right or not, but I have also noticed that my tail strobe/light can be hot enough to burn my fingers if I touch it within a few minutes of getting out of the plane (figured out by picking up the tail one day to put it up on a sawhorse!). It hasn't melted off in 250 hours, and there is no discoloration of paint or other signs of distress. Not saying that's the way it should be....but it's the way mine is... Paul |
Normal
YEP HOT, very hot. The wing NAV lights get hot as well. Normal
Also when you test you master relay, it also will be too hot to touch, also normal. |
I asked the Whelen guy about this at Oshkosh. His answer was "don't plug your strobes directly into the power supply to test them. Make sure you've got a decent length of wire between the strobe and the power supply."
PJ RV-10 #40032 |
sounds like Wheelen has compensated for the voltage drop in the wire run.
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battery chargers
have alot of ripple and higher than a normal operating system voltage to boot this and the shorter wires may be alittle more than normal for the strobes. just some random thoughts.
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Maybe not related
I had my tail bulb expode and it ended up as powered glass.
The Strobe failed with the explosion although it looked intact. The plexy cover survived. Maybe it was hot and malleable. Pete. |
Hail VAF.net Warrior Tonny,
Quote:
Charge the battery, disconnect the charger, and try again. Any type of lightbulb gets HOT, and some get FRIGGEN WAY HOT. You wouldn't be able to touch the 12V brake lamp on your vehicles 3rd brakelight, without burns, if used for the same amount of time. |
Hail VAF.net Warrior PJSeipel,
Quote:
The "Whelen guy" comment suggests this system generates excess heat in the wiring to perform normally. .... I find that scarey for an areoplane. |
I've had this problem and it was because the tail light is flashing twice as often as the side strobes. It fires WITH the side strobes and then once on its own. It shouldn't do that. It should alternate and file as often as the side strobes.
Truth be told, though, I was testing it with the strobes directly into the power pack. One thing I found, however, is if you plug in just the tail strobe and power up, make sure it fires correctly, power down, and THEN plug in the side strobes, the timing works properly. |
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