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-   -   RV-7 Z-EDD, Zimbabwe (https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=109734)

Z-EDD 09-29-2016 09:52 AM

Center section continued.
 
Drilling the bottom skins and countersinking the specified holes.

IMG_0756 by Ed Fleming, on Flickr

You can see how the countersink goes through the skin and into the Bulkhead. This is by design and is ok!

IMG_0757 by Ed Fleming, on Flickr

I fitted the floors and positioned them 1/32nd from the edge of the rib. Not the first time these black clecos have come in handy.

IMG_0758 by Ed Fleming, on Flickr

Here's the whole thing drilled and ready for disassembly. One part I did't get many pictures of, but you can just see here, is the F-623 corner ribs. The instructions and plans are quite vague on the positioning of this. I had trouble visualising how the skins meet in this area. Now that I have the rest of the fuselage assembled I can advise that it is important to position the forward outer flange (closest in this photo) flush with the F-776 skin. This will allow the F-770 side skins to meet the -776 with little or no gap. Mine won't quite be like that :mad: better instructions or a section on the plans would have helpedIMG_0760 by Ed Fleming, on Flickr

Z-EDD 09-29-2016 10:08 AM

Crotch straps.
 
Before removing all of the seat ribs, I fitted the crotch strap sub-kit. This is a little tricky as the brackets are pre-punched but they must be positioned and clamped to the ribs and floors for drilling. I ended up using my angle drill attachment quite a bit.

Here is the initial positioning and marking. I used a piece of angle to represent the floor.
IMG_0747 by Ed Fleming, on Flickr

Here the right side is done and the left is in progress. I used a piece of balsa as a spacer. Multiple clamps were required!

IMG_0748 by Ed Fleming, on Flickr

The view form the top drilling the upper flanges.

IMG_0749 by Ed Fleming, on Flickr

I had just received my Crow harnesses. This shot shows how they mount a little lower than the stock harness. Also, they use an AN4 bolt, not AN5. The thickness is the same though, 1/8.
IMG_0752 by Ed Fleming, on Flickr
All done
IMG_0753 by Ed Fleming, on Flickr

Z-EDD 09-29-2016 10:21 AM

Centre section prep and Longerons
 
Here is the F-705 that I completely forgot to photograph while building. Note I did not prime above the spar, in preparation for interior painting. However I have now discovered that my Tempo Zinc Phosphate primer is quite a good undercoat, so I may prime and paint this before riveting.

IMG_0754 by Ed Fleming, on Flickr

Dimpling setup. I use a steel 8 oz Ball peen hammer for nice crisp dimples.

IMG_0755 by Ed Fleming, on Flickr

getting started on the longerons. I opted to shape the ends before trimming. If it had gone wrong I could just redo them!IMG_0777 by Ed Fleming, on Flickr
IMG_0778 by Ed Fleming, on Flickr
IMG_0779 by Ed Fleming, on Flickr

Z-EDD 09-29-2016 10:30 AM

Longeron bending
 
Measure twice, cut once applies!

IMG_0780 by Ed Fleming, on Flickr

First one getting there. I had bending dies, but they didn't work for me. I just couldn't find the right amount of torque on my vice, the difference between no result and over bent was minuscule. I reverted to the plans technique but struggled there too. I guess I must just lack the finesse necessary. If it is mathematically possible, I did more unbending than bending, on both sides! Anyway, after 3 frustrating days of on and off work and frustration, it was finally nearly over.IMG_0764 by Ed Fleming, on FlickrIMG_0769 by Ed Fleming, on FlickrIMG_0770 by Ed Fleming, on FlickrIMG_0771 by Ed Fleming, on Flickr

Z-EDD 09-29-2016 10:36 AM

Finishing Longerons
 
Clamped for the downward bend.
IMG_0772 by Ed Fleming, on Flickr

Thats about right.

IMG_0773 by Ed Fleming, on Flickr

The final twist- probably the easiest part, all this stuff wants to do is twist anyway!

IMG_0774 by Ed Fleming, on Flickr

Slots for F-711C's. This still needs to be opened a bit.

IMG_0763 by Ed Fleming, on Flickr

Z-EDD 09-29-2016 10:47 AM

Riveting the centre section.
 
IMG_3399 by Ed Fleming, on Flickr

Most of this beautiful riveting was done by my Wife. She seemed almost as keen as I was to get it done and assemble the fuse :D

IMG_0782 by Ed Fleming, on Flickr

IMG_0786 by Ed Fleming, on Flickr
I put the seat floors in place but left off the baggage floors, since it makes it easier to fit to the aft fuse. Once the parts were joined I put the baggage floors in place. Ready to join to the Aft fuse!

Z-EDD 09-29-2016 11:03 AM

Fuselage assembled!
 
This was an awesome RV building day! As soon as we finished riveting the centre section, I put the longerons in place, and arranged the sawhorses. Then we lifted the centre section into place. the clecos are tough to get in at first, but then it all starts to line up and comes together.IMG_0789 by Ed Fleming, on FlickrIMG_0790 by Ed Fleming, on FlickrIMG_0791 by Ed Fleming, on FlickrIMG_0792 by Ed Fleming, on FlickrIMG_0794 by Ed Fleming, on FlickrIMG_0795 by Ed Fleming, on Flickr

arffguy 09-29-2016 08:45 PM

Thanks. Nice photos.
 
That's a great set of photos. Those are some views I don't see too often. I also appreciate the fact you have r/c models in there, especially that E-flite RV-9. But I also gotta say, you guys with pre-punched parts definitely have an advantage.

Skykingbob 09-30-2016 03:06 AM

Nice!
 
Great looking photos Ed.....looks like you are going to have a great-7:)

Neal Trombley 09-30-2016 04:54 AM

Build looks awesome

VPYVO 09-30-2016 05:05 PM

Zakanaka
 
Hi Ed,
Looks good. Very good. Looks like the Zimbo VAF guys are going strong. Any idea of how many RV's flying and being built by the intrepids in Zim?
Cheers Rob (ex MFC and Air Zim)

Z-EDD 10-01-2016 09:32 AM

Thanks for all the comments. I need to get some air under the eflite RV's wings sometime, amazing how old hobbies fall away when you get into this.

Quote:

Originally Posted by VPYVO (Post 1115561)
Hi Ed,
Looks good. Very good. Looks like the Zimbo VAF guys are going strong. Any idea of how many RV's flying and being built by the intrepids in Zim?
Cheers Rob (ex MFC and Air Zim)


Hi Rob. Flying RV's have multiplied to about 6 I believe. Most recent additions were brought in flying or nearly flying. Another 4 are under construction that I know of. Should have a full squadron soon!

Z-EDD 10-29-2016 07:19 AM

Conical bends
 
IMG_0803 by Ed Fleming, on Flickr

This gap is due to poor positioning of F-623. Also note the edge distance problem on the aft most hole. More care is required with positioning F-623, wish I could start over. Probably would be better to drill it just before making the conical bends.

IMG_0804 by Ed Fleming, on Flickr

Instructions don't mention this either, but you need to bend these tabs up to fit flush
IMG_0814 by Ed Fleming, on Flickr

Z-EDD 10-29-2016 07:25 AM

Starting the forward fuselage
 
IMG_0815 by Ed Fleming, on FlickrIMG_0816 by Ed Fleming, on FlickrIMG_0817 by Ed Fleming, on FlickrIMG_0818 by Ed Fleming, on FlickrIMG_0827 by Ed Fleming, on Flickr

Z-EDD 10-29-2016 07:29 AM

IMG_0822 by Ed Fleming, on FlickrIMG_0823 by Ed Fleming, on FlickrIMG_0819 by Ed Fleming, on FlickrIMG_0820 by Ed Fleming, on Flickr[url=https://flic.kr/p/YTmXQh]

Z-EDD 10-29-2016 07:40 AM

Aux Longerons and side stiffeners
 
IMG_0809 by Ed Fleming, on Flickr
IMG_0810 by Ed Fleming, on Flickr

Watch out for that one hole that is off the centreline! It needs to have good edge distance, and will only be drilled along with the F-684 gussets.
IMG_0811 by Ed Fleming, on Flickr

Used F-902 to help secure side stiffener in position during fitting.

IMG_0812 by Ed Fleming, on Flickr

Some guys use a squeezer to "improve" this joggle, but I've seen that go wrong and cause the part to crack. So I used my longeron dies to impart a little bit of a curve here. There was still a bit of a gap so I filled that later with a shim.

IMG_0813 by Ed Fleming, on Flickr
IMG_0805 by Ed Fleming, on Flickr
Heres how I finally drilled the angle clip to the firewall angle. Note drill stop to protect the skin. Angle drill fitting has been invaluable during this phase!

Z-EDD 10-29-2016 07:47 AM

Lower longerons
 
Always amazes me how some parts in this kit are so nicely pre-fabricated, and then others are not at all! The aux longerons came nicely cut, and just needed slight trimming to length. The lower longerons on the other hand, are just a single length of angle, and need a lot of workIMG_0806 by Ed Fleming, on FlickrIMG_0807 by Ed Fleming, on FlickrIMG_0808 by Ed Fleming, on Flickr

Z-EDD 10-29-2016 07:57 AM

Drilling firewall brackets
 
When drilling the lower longerons to the firewall brackets, edge distance on the steel bracket also needs to be preserved. here is how I marked the longerons to show the underlying bracket.
IMG_0831 by Ed Fleming, on FlickrIMG_0832 by Ed Fleming, on FlickrIMG_0833 by Ed Fleming, on FlickrIMG_0834 by Ed Fleming, on Flickr

Z-EDD 10-31-2016 11:37 AM

Rudder pedals
 
IMG_0866 by Ed Fleming, on Flickr

Drilled the UHMW blocks with 3/16 plastic bit. Definitely works better, but the bolts wouldn't fit the 3/16 hole. When I drilled out with the number 10 bit it was as bad as using it in the first place!

IMG_0843 by Ed Fleming, on Flickr
Rudder pedals fitted. 3 positions as others have managed. I'm saving the brake pedals for the inevitable frustrating days waiting for a riveting partner!

Z-EDD 10-31-2016 11:47 AM

Edge distance issues on floor stiffeners
 
IMG_0854 by Ed Fleming, on Flickr

The aft end is just OK.

IMG_0868 by Ed Fleming, on Flickr

But not the forward. After some consideration and research I decided to drill a new hole with the seat support rib. Apparently that aft most hole is really difficult to rivet anyway so I abandoned it. The new hole is 2D from the abandoned hole and 3D from the middle hole.

IMG_0882 by Ed Fleming, on Flickr

Here's how it turned out. Note I'm down to the proseal clecos at this point!

Z-EDD 10-31-2016 12:27 PM

Outboard Floor stiffeners and F-684 Gussets
 
IMG_0863 by Ed Fleming, on Flickr

To fit the outboard floor stiffeners I drilled them fore and aft first. Then I could use those two holes to hold them in position for match drilling to the skin.

IMG_0838 by Ed Fleming, on Flickr

Here is the successful left F-684 Gusset. These took some time to fit correctly and they are an edge distance minefield!! Firstly the bending is not really as shown on the plans. They need a bend right below where the firewall angle ends to fit properly. The other issue is that aft lower hole. It is critical in edge distance on two sides. You need to keep it as far forward as possible to make it easier to drill the forward edge to the firewall angle. This is also the hole that is critical on the aux longeron. I got all this right on the first one.

IMG_0836 by Ed Fleming, on Flickr

But then got this problem on the firewall angle. Don't lay out and drill the holes in the gusset until you mark where the firewall angle ends! This was my only replacement part in this section. Thank goodness I didn't drill the firewall!

Z-EDD 10-31-2016 01:14 PM

F-7114 Gusset
 
I spent a long time researching this thing. It is not even mentioned in the instructions. Apparently Vans attitude is "fit it whenever you like" Since in the tailwheel planes it takes the place of the gear mounts, you could just drill it at the point where the instructions have the nose draggers fit the gear mount. However since it is held in place with 5 AN3 bolts, drilled through the lower skin, lower longeron and F-7101, I surmised that drilling it now was a good time as that would allow proper deburring of those big holes. I needed to adjust the outboard flange slightly to get a good fit.

IMG_0877 by Ed Fleming, on FlickrIMG_0877 by Ed Fleming, on Flickr

Z-EDD 11-20-2016 10:31 AM

F-724 edge distance
 
I had the typical edge distance issues on both ends of my F-623 Baggage bulkheads. The first 2 pictures show comparison shots of the outside of each conical bend and the relationship with the edge distance on the lower flange of the baggage bulkhead. The moral seems to be if you get the bend to fit nice and tight you'll get better edge distance. The next two photos show how I chose to resolve it with a new flange. This may not be necessary but I'm glad I took the time as this is a complex joint and this flange seems to reinforce and supports the corner of the conical bend.IMG_0845 by Ed Fleming, on FlickrIMG_0846 by Ed Fleming, on FlickrIMG_0914 by Ed Fleming, on FlickrIMG_0848 by Ed Fleming, on Flickr

Z-EDD 11-20-2016 10:39 AM

And the top....
 
On the upper flange I also had an issue on one side. This time I think I failed to ensure the rib was sitting tightly against the skin. I emailed Vans and apparently this is not an issue, so I left both sides at number 40 and will use a 3/32 flush rivet.
IMG_0919 by Ed Fleming, on Flickr
IMG_0919 by Ed Fleming, on Flickr

And now a gratuitous shot of the fully drilled fuselage before disassembly.

IMG_0917 by Ed Fleming, on Flickr

Z-EDD 11-20-2016 11:06 AM

Disassembly and F-682D
 
And here we go with taking it all apart.

IMG_0884 by Ed Fleming, on Flickr

Did I say fully drilled? Not so fast! My vagrant (some would say jet setting) lifestyle of flying cargo planes full of rubber dog poop around the world, gives me plenty of time to contemplate and look ahead in the instructions, as well as other guys build logs. Thus I foresaw the problems with drilling the F-682D cover support angles and devised a way to get these drilled and riveted now. Basically these parts seem to be a bit of an after thought. The instructions have you drill them to the F-7101 webs after the skins are riveted on. There is barely a 1/8 gap between the F-7101 and the skin, so this drilling is tricky to say the least. Even after this setting the blind rivets is really difficult since they can't be fully inserted.

So I fabricated and drilled the F-782s to F-7101 with the skins removed. I did not drill the screw holes in the forward flange yet as the forward fuselage was disassembled so I wasn't completely sure these would be accurate.
IMG_0888 by Ed Fleming, on Flickr
IMG_0891 by Ed Fleming, on Flickr
IMG_0896 by Ed Fleming, on Flickr

This was a really tricky job even at this point, can't imagine what it would be like with the fuselage riveted! Had to reach up from the bottom with an angle drill

IMG_0892 by Ed Fleming, on Flickr

Z-EDD 11-20-2016 12:06 PM

F-782D continued
 
I'll skip ahead to show how these came out. After prep and prime, and after the forward fuselage was reassembled but with the bottom skin still off, I match drilled the F-782As to the F-782Ds for number 8 screws. The F-7101s can then be removed, the F-782Ds riveted in place and the nut plates fitted. Then rivet F-7101 to F-902 as per the instructions and cleco the whole assembly back in place.

Note however that I riveted the nut plates first, thus forcing use of 2 blind rivets anyway! Silly, there should be easy access to rivet the nut plates after attaching to F-7101. You can also see where I messed up the position of the lower hole and had to use a single Lug nut plate.
IMG_0932 by Ed Fleming, on Flickr
IMG_0935 by Ed Fleming, on Flickr[url=https://flic.kr/p/ZWtsyj]
IMG_0937 by Ed Fleming, on Flickr

Z-EDD 11-25-2016 01:07 PM

Prep and prime
 
One of the advantages of using a rattle can primer is that you don't need to build up a huge backlog of stuff to prime in one go. I like to do stuff in manageable chunks. These are all the stiffeners and bulkhead parts, prepped, dimpled/countersunk and primed in one day. Big part of the job done.

IMG_0921 by Ed Fleming, on Flickr

Here's how I dimpled the lower skin at the aft end of the centre section. A piece of scrap .040 drilled and dimpled serves as a shim. Then squeezed as normal.
IMG_0900 by Ed Fleming, on Flickr

When I built the F-705 I wasn't sure what I was going to do about painting the interior, so I did not prime it fully. I've now decided it will be easiest to prime and paint as much of the interior now, so I prepped, primed and painted the bulkhead. I'm using a locally available rattle can paint in a shade called "machinery grey"! Its not a world beating finish but should be easy to touch up as required.

IMG_0905 by Ed Fleming, on Flickr

I masked off non visible areas on the sides before painting. The bulkheads and stiffeners in the background are also waiting for paint.

IMG_0902 by Ed Fleming, on Flickr

Z-EDD 11-25-2016 01:23 PM

Pitch servo mount and armrests
 
I purchased the Garmin Pitch servo mount and fitted it. This does not mean I am now committed to Garmin, as I understand the mounting hole pattern is common to most servos. When I opened the bag I couldn't see any instructions and was stumped for a while before I eventually looked in the G3X installation manual I had downloaded. Sure enough, the instructions are there under GSA28 servo installation. quite straight forward.

IMG_0871 by Ed Fleming, on Flickr

IMG_0872 by Ed Fleming, on Flickr

The armrests are quite flimsy and most people seem to reinforce them. This seems sensible and I am quite sure I will have plenty of .063 angle left over. I filed it until it nested nicely, trimmed the long edge flush and match drilled for 3/32 flush rivets.

IMG_0906 by Ed Fleming, on Flickr
IMG_0907 by Ed Fleming, on FlickrIMG_0908 by Ed Fleming, on Flickr

Z-EDD 11-26-2016 09:52 AM

Painting armrests
 
I found this gorgeous shade of blue rattle can paint. I like it so much I may just match it for my exterior trim. In the meantime I decided to try painting the armrests with it to see how it looked against the grey. I like!

IMG_0909 by Ed Fleming, on Flickr

The armrests top off a massive pile of primed or painted parts waiting for reassembly

IMG_0923 by Ed Fleming, on Flickr

But first there are a couple of riveting tasks. I made sure all nut plates were fitted as required. Some will be very hard to do later. Also the F-704H side plates are riveted to the skin. I also did the upper 2 rivets, not specified but I could see no reason not to do them now. I also set a solid rivet in the aft lower hole. A blind rivet is called out but I could not see why. The forward hole needs one because it also attaches the lower skin so cannot be done now.

IMG_0926 by Ed Fleming, on Flickr

The F-684 is riveted to the firewall angle. This view shows the complex bend quite well.

IMG_0924 by Ed Fleming, on Flickr

Z-EDD 11-26-2016 10:01 AM

Reassembly
 
Its finally time to put it all back together.
IMG_0927 by Ed Fleming, on Flickr
IMG_0929 by Ed Fleming, on Flickr
IMG_0930 by Ed Fleming, on Flickr

And now ready for firewall sealant.

IMG_0939 by Ed Fleming, on Flickr

Z-EDD 11-26-2016 10:15 AM

Lower longeron to firewall bolts.
 
When I fitted the specified AN3-5A bolts they seemed a little long. When I threaded the nut on with only one washer, 4 threads were visible leading to a danger that the nut was tightening on the shank of the bolt, so I added a washer. Unfortunately, I decided to add it under the bolt head. I torqued everything down, but now that I am riveting I have realised that these will interfere with good access to buck these important rivets. So unfortunately they have had to be removed. If I had put the extra washer under the nut I might have still had good access.IMG_0956 by Ed Fleming, on FlickrIMG_0947 by Ed Fleming, on FlickrIMG_0947 by Ed Fleming, on FlickrIMG_0947 by Ed Fleming, on Flickr

Z-EDD 11-26-2016 10:24 AM

Firewall sealing
 
I used 3m Firebarrier 2000+ to seal the firewall. Vans won't ship their stuff outside the lower 48, so not even to Alaska where I can pick it up on my travels. 3m costs 20 bucks at ACS and they'll ship it anywhere. This stuff was recommended by Dave Prizio in his "best practices" column. It is silicon based and comes in a large tube that can be loaded in a caulking gun. No mixing required, very easy to applyIMG_0940 by Ed Fleming, on FlickrIMG_0940 by Ed Fleming, on FlickrIMG_0940 by Ed Fleming, on FlickrIMG_0940 by Ed Fleming, on FlickrIMG_0940 by Ed Fleming, on FlickrIMG_0940 by Ed Fleming, on Flickr

Z-EDD 01-05-2017 01:15 PM

Flipped the Canoe!
 
Well, today was the biggest and most satisfying day in the project since unpacking the kit. I started riveting the "canoe" together around 8 weeks ago. In that time I have managed only 4 sessions, but 2 of those were marathons. It has been frustrating at times, but in the end it is well worth waiting for a highly competent riveting partner. Most of these rivets were shot by my buddy Kev whilst here on layover from his airline job. Kev worked on the hangar floor for a few years before becoming a pilot, so he knows his stuff. If we had to drill out one of his rivets it was probably my fault. My father in law Alistair helped with the final session and today we finally "flipped the canoe". What a momentIMG_0971 by Ed Fleming, on FlickrIMG_0972 by Ed Fleming, on FlickrIMG_0973 by Ed Fleming, on FlickrIMG_0976 by Ed Fleming, on FlickrIMG_0979 by Ed Fleming, on FlickrIMG_0980 by Ed Fleming, on FlickrIMG_0982 by Ed Fleming, on FlickrIMG_0984 by Ed Fleming, on Flickr

AndyRV7 01-06-2017 08:23 AM

It looks great! And it's a 7!!

ba5online 01-07-2017 07:40 AM

Nice job. In the second photo, is that a cracked flange behind the 4 bolts?

Z-EDD 01-08-2017 10:22 PM

It comes like that
 
I can see why you would think that, but both of those steel weldments came like that. They are actually separate parts, welded nearer the front. The gap is quite narrow between them and the powder coating partially covers the gap, which then leaves a ragged edge when they are pulled apart slightly.

rightrudder 01-09-2017 02:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Z-EDD (Post 1140385)
I can see why you would think that, but both of those steel weldments came like that. They are actually separate parts, welded nearer the front. The gap is quite narrow between them and the powder coating partially covers the gap, which then leaves a ragged edge when they are pulled apart slightly.

Nice progress, Ed! An especially thorough job of sealing the firewall. :)

Yeah, that freaked me out when I saw those brackets on my QB fuselage. I had this terrible sinking feeling that I'd have to re-crate the fuse and send it back to Van's. Perfectly normal, as it turned out.

Z-EDD 01-12-2017 01:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rightrudder (Post 1140567)
Nice progress, Ed! An especially thorough job of sealing the firewall. :)

Thanks Doug, almost 3 years and I'm just getting to the QB stage! Loved every minute though :)

Z-EDD 04-03-2017 12:48 PM

Aft deck
 
First job after flipping the canoe over is the aft deck. First I levelled the fuse longitudinally.

IMG_0992 by Ed Fleming, on Flickr

And Laterally

IMG_0995 by Ed Fleming, on Flickr

0.3 degrees out at the aft deck, doesn't seem like much.

IMG_0998 by Ed Fleming, on Flickr

I used ratcheting straps to remove the twist and drilled. I tried removing the twist by hand and clamping but it just wasn't going to happen. The straps held it nicely.
Also as you can see I could have done this with just the bubble level. Oh well, we like gadgets and numbers!

IMG_1000 by Ed Fleming, on Flickr

Here's another view showing the lower strap on the tail spring.

IMG_1001 by Ed Fleming, on Flickr

kentlik 04-05-2017 09:44 AM

Very nice work Sir!


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