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-   -   Instrument Panel Plan (https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=105505)

rleffler 10-25-2013 12:00 PM

You may want to change the default location of the firewall punch through for the control cables, depending on the height of the two boxes mounted on the tunnel. You may have enough clearance currently. My memory doesn't recall the exact location, but best to check now before drilling any holes in the stainless.

J Twilbeck 10-25-2013 12:00 PM

Thanks Stein! I will look into both of the recommendations.

J Twilbeck 10-25-2013 12:11 PM

Bob,
I should have clearance, all the models are built to scale and the holes are about halfway up the firewall recess. It's hard to see in the pics, but on my model it shows plenty of room about 2.5" of clearance. But excellent forward thinking. Exactly the insight I'm looking for.

J Twilbeck 10-25-2013 02:41 PM

I rearranged the GTN and mini EFIS. I included a close out panel to lay over the instrument panel, this will hide all the screws and how the instrument panel lays over the lower rail. I also added a little design, for fun. I think it's gonna look really nice.

Jesse 10-25-2013 03:47 PM

I like that layout a lot. I think you will be very happy with it. The Dynons and the iPad are great to fly behind.

SteinAir 10-25-2013 06:42 PM

Looking good! If you want to hide the screws, just get rid of them...that's what we do on 90+% of the RV10 panels we build. We just start over with a new flat sheet. Several benefits...first you hide the screws, 2nd is the fact that you get a bunch more room to use from the now removed nutplates, screws and overlapping metal. Lastly, it allows you to shape and size the panel however you want (metal, carbon, glass or a mixture).

Cheers,
Stein

Jesse 10-25-2013 07:38 PM

Stein,

How do you attach the panel without screws? I'm not doubting, just curious because I like the idea.

SteinAir 10-25-2013 08:15 PM

Instead of using the angles on the side of the "switch strip" , just make two of your own from something like 3/4"x3/4" angle. Rivet it to the fuse like normal, then just bolt/screw the panel to the angles. Structure is put back, but it's still removeable if need be. The other solution is to just whack off the ends of the switch strip and re-use them as attach points. Hope that makes sense....

P.S. we usually bump up the thickness to .080 as well, and also make a bigger bend on the bottom which results in a deeper bottom flange for assisting with wire bundle routing and also hidden mounting of things like USB's, 12VDC's, jacks, ets...

Cheers,
Stein

Jesse 10-25-2013 08:22 PM

Ok. I've done that on most of my panels. Do you still screw on the top perimeter or have you figured a way around that?

usafape 10-26-2013 06:52 AM

What are you using to model the parts?


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