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Flaring tool operation....
Just did my first flares today. The first one I did turned out to be a bit too wide despite using the depth stop as a guide. I also noted I could really crank down on the cone making it expand further than desired. This technique proved to make a flare which was too wide for the AN-6 fitting.
The second attempt I puposely inserted the tubing just shy of the depth stop and made certain not to crank down the cone to excess. This made a very nice fare that I assume is usable/acceptable. My question is, how do you make consistent flares? Is this just a feel/sight type of thing? If you get it wrong does this introduce leaks? |
lubricate and feel...
Make sure to use a small amount of lubricant on the mandrel... do a couple of scrap pieces and you will notice a consistent increase in resistance when making the flare... for me, this is just about the perfect stoping point.
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Dont forget to remove all cutting marks from the end of the tube before flaring.
Scotch brite wheel works well to polish out marks. And ditto on the lube. |
Yes.
A little craftsmanship is required but clearly you already figured that out. You are a builder. |
Hey T,
I second what Stephen said - use some lubricant, and stop the moment you feel the resistance change (increase). As for the depth stop, I'm using the Parker tool and mine seems to be accurate. |
Tony---
you can do it! |
And once you "do it" guess what?
You ain't done! Just wait until you have to flare a tube for the fuel system and then have to bend it to fit in the fuselage :eek: Here's my "builder tip" - BUY A LOT OF TUBING! :D |
![]() Good vs Bad |
flare tool
What flare tool is a good one? I need to buy one.
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Tom, I'm using the Parker tool as well. Let me try a few more flares. Maybe I just over-torqued the horn the first time.
I'm no expert yet but it IS fun flaring the tubing. :D |
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