Wing Walk Edge
 

Here is what my wing walk edge looks like. Have we come to a consensus as to how to bend the edge?

It has been a while, but if I recall correctly, I had the same problem. It was solved however when the rivets were pulled. The rivets pull it together far better than the clecos.

this worked for me.
 

I used the flaperon counterweight and taped it to the edge with duct tape. Carefully roll it to make the edge curve to the extent you find acceptable. Check the fit several times and don't overdo it. Any other similar diameter tube can be used to form the edge into a nice curl.

I don't recall it being a problem when riveted. You could always `break' the edge to ensure it will sit flat.

Wing Walk Doubler Edge
 

Jorge,

I had a similar issue as you and had already dimpled prior to test fitting, so the Cleaveland edge tool couldn?t be used. On the left wing I used a 1 ?? PVC pipe and had a helper hold the wing walk doubler on a sharp edge of the bench while developing a small break by working the edge with the PVC pipe. Results ? better than it was, but not as good as it could be.

While working on the right wing I remembered I also had an Avery edge tool (the one that looks like a black disc with tiny white wheels). The Avery wheels are much narrower than the Cleaveland tool and were able to just barely fit between the edge of the dimples and the edge of the wing walk doubler. After working the edge a bit, the Avery tool yielded better results.

Had I had it to do over again, I would have broken the edges of both wing walk doublers with the Cleaveland edge tool prior to dimpling.

Happy building,

John
www.dogaviation.com
Dues paid until late summer

Good info. Thanks!

Problem is that the wing walk comes predimpled from the factory. I just ordered the Avery tool. I'll give it a try.

I have not tried this suggestion but it might work. Countersink a PVC pipe. Fasten the wing walk to the pipe with flat head wood screws. Roll the pipe.
Joe Gores

The Avery tool will give it a little bit of a bend but it is hard to control due to the dimples.
It Bounces all over the place.
Then when I put the skin on I clecoed it in every hole on the first row to get it as close as I could and then riveted every other hole.
It pulled in pretty good but not perfect but I don't think anyone would notice since it is on the bottom and the edge is away from the leading edge

I found that using a RV4 Canopy Edge tool does a better job of breaking the edges rather than the narrower edge tool typically used. For the doubler, I broke the edge and got it to lay pretty flat. Work the edge BEFORE you rivet it otherwise, you may end up with ripples.