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-   -   Rudder Pedal SB Revision 2 (https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=202948)

MWH265 01-18-2022 09:37 AM

Rudder Pedal SB Revision 2
 
I have my new rudder pedals and am about to dig in. Vans says it's a 6-hour job. Does that sound about right? I realize it depends on what obstacles may be in the way. Did the new bars "fit" without much modification? Also, does it matter which bar is in front of the other, left or right? I believe mine were put in opposite of the plans. Should I change it?

Thanks in advance,
Mike

Scott Hersha 01-18-2022 06:39 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Here’s a pic of mine during build up prior to installation in my current RV6 build -

Attachment 21173

Upside down of course……. Sorry, you get the idea….

Kyle Boatright 01-18-2022 07:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MWH265 (Post 1582917)
I have my new rudder pedals and am about to dig in. Vans says it's a 6-hour job. Does that sound about right? I realize it depends on what obstacles may be in the way. Did the new bars "fit" without much modification? Also, does it matter which bar is in front of the other, left or right? I believe mine were put in opposite of the plans. Should I change it?

Thanks in advance,
Mike

The orientation of the bars matters, as I recall. Can't remember why. Hopefully, someone will come along soon with certainty and a reason.

I would tell you that it should take 30 minutes to pull your old bars, an hour to reconfigure the pedals and brake cylinders, and another 30 minutes to reinstall. Double that, 'cause I'm always optimistic, and I get 4 hours.

Here's the key, IMO. Once you unbolt the rudder weldment blocks, slide the assembly as far AFT (not forward) as you can to get as much side to side free play as possible (the fuselage gets wider farther aft) That will let you remove the UHMW blocks on the ends so you can more easily remove the weldments. Reverse the process to reinstall..

gasman 01-18-2022 09:58 PM

2 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by MWH265 (Post 1582917)
I have my new rudder pedals and am about to dig in. Vans says it's a 6-hour job. Does that sound about right? I realize it depends on what obstacles may be in the way. Did the new bars "fit" without much modification? Also, does it matter which bar is in front of the other, left or right? I believe mine were put in opposite of the plans. Should I change it?

Thanks in advance,
Mike

As you can see from the pictures below, the two weldments have different lengths. The short one goes towards the firewall. You can also see that the longer (back) one has the left rudder cable connected to it.

Before you remove your old weldments make sure they were installed properly. If not, you will have trouble mounting your pedals on the new parts.
Attachment 21175 Attachment 21176

MWH265 01-20-2022 02:00 PM

Thanks
 
Thanks for the insight. I think this shouldn't be too bad. Hopefully no more than a long day.

Mike

lemerc 02-22-2022 03:20 PM

Rudder Pedal SB Revision 2
 
I am in the middle of tackling the rudder pedal modification on my RV-6A. That is, I've finally gotten the whole rudder pedal assembly out of the airplane. It was not fun or easy. Van's Service Bulletin says to expect 6 hours to do the whole job. Good luck! I've got at least that much time just getting the assembly out.

I started by removing anything in the way of being able to position myself under the panel.Then I removed the brake lines, rudder cables, F-6115 Center Bearing Bushing, and anything else that kept me from removing the bolts from the F-6116 Side Bearing Bushings. I only have brakes installed on the left side pedals and was able the leave the brake pedals and master cylinders attached during removal.

After removing the Side Bushing bolts, I could not get the assembly to swing out so it could be removed from the plane. I tried moving the whole assembly as far aft as possible to gain more side clearance. I tried moving one end forward and the other aft. I tried twisting the two tubes so one was almost on top of the other. Nothing would give me enough clearance to swing the assembly out or to remove even one of the Side Bushings.

I thought about different things I could try. The easiest would have been to cut the cross tubes in half, then buy new ones (ouch!). They are now $163 each and presently on backorder. If you are planning on purchasing new ones with the gussets already welded on, cutting would be the easiest solution. I finally came up with the idea of cutting the Side Bushings (they're cheap) so that I could remove the tubes from the bushings giving me extra clearance..

I decided to use a vibrating multi-tool with a new wood saw blade attached. Before starting, I cut a piece of .032 aluminum sheet, much larger than the block, to slip between the fuselage skin and the bushings to protect the fuselage skin. Then, I positioned a Side Bushing so I could carefully make 45 degree cuts at the corners of the aft end of the bushing, straight in toward the fuselage skin,. The idea is to expose the sides of the tube. I had to cut a little remaining nylon (or whatever the bushings are made of) afterward. If you try this, don't push too hard. Concentrate on carefully controlling the tool and let the blade do the cutting work. Take your time! I was then able to push the end of the tube out of the bushing. Same with the other end of the bushing to release the forward tube. I still could not swing the cross tubes free, so I started on the other side. Finally, after releasing just the aft cross tube on the other side, I was able to remove one cross tube at a time out of the plane.

After having the gussets welded on, I envision again not having enough side clearance to get the pre-assembled assembly back in place. Splitting the F-6116 bushings, like what was done to the F-6115 center bushing, seems to be the best solution. Remember that it matters which way the bushings face, as the cross tube holes are not drilled straight into the bushings. I'll have to get creative to match the bolt holes already in the longerons to the bolt holes I'll have to drill in the new bushings. I think I will drill a bolt hole, as per the plans, in the forward end of the bushings first before cutting it in half horizontally. I'll lay the bottom half of each bushing on the longerons first, secure its back and forth movement by inserting a bolt into the drilled hole, then position the cross tubes into place (shortest tube forward). Then I can mark, or possibly partially drill in-place, the aft bolt hole in the bushing using the bolt hole already in the longeron as a guide. Remember that washers must be placed on the bolts, at the split, before bolting down the top half of the bushings to make up for the material removed during the cut. This helps keep the holes round.

Not a simple modification to perform, to be sure, but an important one.

Untainted123 02-22-2022 03:46 PM

Takes Forever
 
I just completed my pedal reinforcement in my RV-6 yesterday. The right pedal bar goes forward, the left pedal/bar aft. They are a bear to get out, and you need to mark the nylon blocks so you can put them back in the same way they came out.

What made a huge difference in getting them back in way easier was to saw the side blocks in half, and then replace what the kerf of the saw took out with washers (thin or thick depending on your saw blade, I used a thin bandsaw). Also, it helps to align the washers with a bolt and super glue the washers down so you aren't fighting that too when reinstalling. Then, it's a matter of inserting them back in.

When I got them out, the hardest thing was getting enough room side to side to get the block off the end of the 2 bars, since getting 2 bars maneuvered out was way harder.

All in I think the job was closer to 20 hours, but while I waited on a friend to weld them up for me, I did a small panel upgrade.

I ordered the replacement pedals on January 11, since mine had completely broken (do the SB!), but they are _still_ on backorder, so I had mine repaired and reinforced instead, and will monitor until I get the Van's ones.

abwaldal@gmail.com 02-23-2022 01:34 PM

rudder peddle assembly pain
 
I have a 1991 RV-6 kit and I followed the plans that said to cut the support blocks in half before you put them in.
Now to my problem I have solved.
I can guarantee it took longer than 6 hours to take R and R the peddles out of my RV-6A
Mostly because I didn't build it. The builder didn't see it necessary to cut the blocks in half. Also ran stuff under the peddle pipes.
It was a holy @&#& day. VERY hard to get the peddle assemblies out with solid bearing blocks.
I felt like I was going to have cut a hole in the fuse or cut the the assemblies in half and buy new.
I got it done and Russ welded them up and did a great job.
Art

JW969 03-02-2022 12:06 PM

Ruder Pedal SB
 
I had the welding done locally and had a local mechanic re-install. I was trying to share photos, but could not get them to upload.

lemerc 03-12-2022 01:16 AM

Rudder pedal mod. welding
 
1 Attachment(s)
Here is a photo of my rudder pedal mod. after the gussets were attached. I am not a welder and chose to hire it done by a locally well known professional welder.
He indicated he was reluctant to "weld" the gussets on because of their thinness and because of the material (4130 chromoly). According to him, welding the thin 4130, which includes melting the base metal, could produce too much heat and compromise the original welds, likely causing them or the surrounding area to become brittle. He suggested that he TIG braze the gussets on using silicon-bronze rod and, even then, use copper heat sinks to help quickly carry away some of the heat. Brazing requires less heat because the base material does not have to be melted. When asked about the strength of the brazing, he said that as long as the gussets were brazed all the way around, it would be plenty strong. I agreed to his recommendation. I'm not suggesting that everyone should do this, but am suggesting that there appears to be more to this than just grabbing your Harbor Freight wire feed MIG welder and going at it.


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