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C frame dimpler table

jamcgee1978

Active Member
Hi there,

New RV10 builder here in the UK happy easter hols to all,
Will be constructing my dimpler table tomorrow, as i understand i should build the level of the table to match the bottom dimple die ( to avoid pressing down on the material when dimpling)

Is this correct.

Also when using the Cframe bench dimpler should the male die remain on the bottom for ease of steadying the aluminium prior to dimpling.
Im yet to undertake the metal working course offered by the LAA so im learning metalwork via books and this great forum so far,
Thanks in advance

James
Glasgow, UK
 
That all sounds correct to me. Remember there will probably be carpet or some other soft material on the table surface, account for that in the height to match the C frame with set holder and male die. Check the Cleavand Tool Site, I think mike may have plans and a drawing for the table build. I didn't see the plans for the table, but here is a link to the table they sell with a picture.

http://www.cleavelandtool.com/C-Frame-Table-Riser-Kit/productinfo/CFT48/#.VvfIaPA8KrU

Jim
 
Jamcgee,

Welcome!

You are correct....almost. Having completed my table only a few months ago, it's fresh in my mind. The top of the table should be just below the bottom die. Cleaveland's instructions actually say to have the table 1/16" below the bottom die.

In order to make this an easy task, I'd suggest putting leveling feet on the bottom of the table so that it can be adjusted. Upon completion, the C-frame is put into the table and a piece of something flat is placed between the dies. The table top is then adjusted to approximately 1/16" below this piece

The instructions/plans to Cleaveland's table can be found here:

http://www.cleavelandtool.com/instructions/cframeinstructions.pdf

Good luck!!

Fred
 
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Wish I had seen the Cleaveland kit before I built my own... but I made the best of it and turned it into a tool table. Another hot tip: make a carpet surround pad for your backriveting plate. Learned that lesson a little late, too.
C%2Bframe%2Btable%2B17.JPG
 
Interesting idea

I just used scraps of 1x4 while i built my wings etc. and this brought the level up to the dimpler. your idea would be much nicer.
 
Deflection

A crisp dimple with no deflection around the dimple is paramount. Wood gives. Personally I would have a post situated below the impact point transferring the load to a concrete or solid floor. Try it out. Put the c-frame on cement floor and see the difference. Minimize the deflection with structure in your bench. I like to use the male die on the bottom. Lift the material and place it on the die so you don't scratch the material.
 
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Tip

A crisp dimple with no deflection around the dimple is paramount. Wood gives. Personally I would have a post situated below the impact point transferring the load to a concrete or solid floor. Try it out. Put the c-frame on cement floor and see the difference. Minimize the deflection with structure in your bench. I like to use the male die on the bottom. Lift the material and place it on the die so you don't scratch the material.

Agree
A post would be ideal.
I position my two EAA benches side by side and the top positioned so the c-frame staddles the two benches. I've tried it other ways and the bench gives too much.
 
Thanks for the replies guys onwards and upwards tomorrow! Kit arrives in about 6 weeks so all seems very real now. Training kit and toolbox arrived this week so keen to crack on.
 
Posted by agirard7a
A crisp dimple with no deflection around the dimple is paramount. Wood gives. Personally I would have a post situated below the impact point transferring the load to a concrete or solid floor. Try it out. Put the c-frame on cement floor and see the difference. Minimize the deflection with structure in your bench.

Great advice. Glad I got it this early in the build. Pulled the dimpler out of the table yesterday and tried it on concrete. Couldn't believe the difference. Spent the remainder of yesterday devising a way to transfer the force more directly to the floor.

Ended up using 2" steel pipe and 2" flanges between the table and the floor. Mounted an oak block on the bottom flange for stability. Used a coupling between the pipe to allow the "leg" to be adjusted.

Thanks for the tip!

Fred
 
I made a lightweight version...

You might consider what I did. It's a heckuva lot easier to move on/off your work table, and can be more easily be stored in an overhead rafter area, if you have one of those.
IMG_7589_zps3cvu2jd1.jpg

I used foamboard and liquid nails.

IMG_7588_zpsttbjuywg.jpg


IMG_7590_zpsz6hdrzpz.jpg


G'luck!
 
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