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-   -   RV-12: Engine Mounting Cap Screws Inspection (https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=65020)

MartySantic 05-03-2012 09:14 AM

And if using locktite, mark the 4 bolts with torque seal. If you retorque them and the bolt turns, you risk breaking the loctite seal.

BigJohn 05-03-2012 05:56 PM

Go here, look at pictures for 12/7 and 12/8. Just another way to skin the cat!

Tony_T 05-17-2012 09:26 PM

Update -- Nord Lock washers on engine bolts
 
Doing an ACI (second) and had to pull off the carbs anyway so access to the top engine bolts was pretty easy. You have to take off the drip pans to get to the bolts, so a couple of 'O' rings should be on hand.

Anyway, to the point; as previous discussed in this thread I used Nord Lock washers on the engine bolts back at 40 hours instead of using Lock Tite. My reasoning was that I really wanted to be able to put a torque wrench on these bolt to check tightness at the annual inspection rather than just look at the torque seal marks. I may be the only one who used the Nord Locks.

My latest check today which is 90 hours since the Nord Locks were installed show the bolts at full torque of 30 ft-lb. I'm happy :).

Tony

2johns 05-17-2012 09:47 PM

I also used nord lock washers with 30 ft-lbs of torque. 75 hours and still tight.

Peterk 05-17-2012 10:20 PM

Bob Kibby used the Nord Locks as well and his are fine. My lower two were loose when this first was mentioned. The Rotax Installation Manual said to torque them to 30ft/lbs instead of the 26 in the build instructions...so I did...and they are still solid 300 some hours later.

rjtjrt 05-17-2012 11:53 PM

PeterK wrote
Quote:

Originally Posted by Peterk (Post 660164)
Bob Kibby used the Nord Locks as well and his are fine. My lower two were loose when this first was mentioned. The Rotax Installation Manual said to torque them to 30ft/lbs instead of the 26 in the build instructions...so I did...and they are still solid 300 some hours later.

Pete
I am not sure if you used Nordlocks, or locktite, or nothing except increased torque (30ft/lbs instead of the 26) to achieve result ("they are still solid 300 some hours later").
Can you clarify please?
John

Geico266 05-18-2012 06:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rjtjrt (Post 660176)
PeterK wrote


Pete
I am not sure if you used Nordlocks, or locktite, or nothing except increased torque (30ft/lbs instead of the 26) to achieve result ("they are still solid 300 some hours later").
Can you clarify please?
John

Pete did not use loctite or Nordlock washers, just retorqued to 30. They have held tight.

Skunkworks 06-14-2012 09:02 PM

Found Hex Ball End Socket and Socket-Knuckle does the job
 
Able to access upper left engine mount cap screw


2johns 06-14-2012 10:18 PM

I really like nordlock washers. It takes more torque to loosen them than what you have them torqued to. If the engine mount bolts are torqued to 30 ft lbs it takes at least 33 ft lbs to loosen them. They are used on two other places on our RV12s - The mounting bolts on the propeller and the two bolts that hold the brake pads on the matco brakes. 130 hours and the engine mount bolts are still tight.

Skunkworks 06-17-2012 07:34 AM

Van's Cooling Shroud Mod 11-19-2010
 
Not sure if eveyone has see this document on modifying the cooling shroud.
Our build, the shroud seemed to be already modified. We were able to reach the engine mount allen screw in the upper left using the ball end hex driver. See previous pic's above.

Link for cooling shroud modification from Van's below:
http://www.vansaircraft.com/pdf/lett...Shroud_Mod.pdf


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