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Elevator Horn alignment

YellowJacket RV9

Well Known Member
Patron
Hi all,

From searching and reading Smitty's log, I see that I am not the first person to realize that the e-902 and e-906 elevator spar and rib are pre-drilled for the wd-605 horn. However, when I test fit everything together (ie I have not yet riveted e-902 to e-906), the holes in wd-605 and e-906 are about 1 hole width off. I have cleco'd the horn to the spar, and then hold the rib in place to check alignment. I am hesitant to rivet the rib and spar together yet before I am sure that they will fit the horn. Perhaps riveting e-906 will compress the flange enough that it will bring the holes together but I doubt it. Has anybody else run into this? It would almost be easier if e-906 was NOT pre-drilled here.

2ynlzj9.jpg


Planning on emailing Vans but thought I may get some advice here before the weekend is over.

Chris
 
Just looking at the picture, it appears that the forward flange of the rib may not be sufficiently bent. Additional bending of the flange will allow the rib to move forward slightly.
 
Bending the flange a bit more did help line things up a little, I am now only about 1/2 hole width off at most. Looks like once things are snugged up and riveted the alignment should be just about right, I hope. Thanks for the tip.
 
how about with the skins in place?

Have you tried the alignment with the skins in place too? Just thinking the skins might also force things into alignment better (ie: they might adjust the flange even more than you have already).
 
I don't remember this being a problem with my build

.....But then that was a couple of years ago and at my age my memory is not that good :D

If I had that problem during the build I would use cleco's (in every hole) installed in a sequence to compress the components until everything lined up. Sometimes changing the sequence of installing the cleco's would do the job.

Hoping my 2 cents is of some help.
 
A little tweaking might do

If I had that problem during the build I would use cleco's (in every hole) installed in a sequence to compress the components until everything lined up. Sometimes changing the sequence of installing the cleco's would do the job.

I agree. Sometimes the parts right after stripping them off the blue vynil don't line up perfectly. Some tweaking and handling, along with proper deburring and/or filing do the rest of the job. Some other times a little extra pressure in some areas will help them allign.

If they still won't fit nicely, Van's will most likely help you further, and in most cases, replace the damaged or defective parts.

Sometimes mechanical production is not as perfect as we all wish it to be. Van's is aware of this, and will definitely replace a part rather than compromising somebody's safety :)
 
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More agreement here ...

... when it came to that point in the HS assembly, the more skins, spars, and ribs I had clecoed, the better EVERYthing fit. IIRC, the holes for the elevator horns did end up pretty snug, but I was able to get clecoes in all them them. My advice is to keep massaging and "convincing" the recalcitrant pieces .... eventually the horns will line up.
 
Thanks everybody. By clecoing to the horn first and then working the assembly onto the spar I am getting pretty close. Have not had time to try with the skin on but I'm hoping that makes the last bit of difference. If not I'll give vans a call later this week. Thanks!

Chris
 
Elbow grease!

I remember this was a tight fit. I inserted the cleco's into all the holes. This aligned the horn to the predrilled holes...

I don't know how to upload the image from my hard drive...:confused:
 
[Update - I think I've finally got it. I will describe how I did it in case anybody else has the same issue.] First off, I botched the first spar doing the countersinking, so I am on my second spar and rib. Still had the same hole alignment issue. I tried riveting the spar and rib together as per instructions, still no luck, even with the skins all cleco'd on. So I carefully drilled out the spar to rib rivets, and the I used my sheet metal bender to bend the flange of the rib beyond the normal angle, ie, I overbent it. Then I was able to cleco the horn first to the rib, and then wedge the assembly onto the spar, wedging the spar between the horn and the rib. Now all the holes line up, but the flange of the rib is bent up and away from the spar, which would inhibit proper riveting. So I cut the end of a large dowel at an angle and used a mallet and the dowel to slowly tap the flange of the rib down flat onto the spar. Have not quite got it flat yet but almost. Hopefully this will be the difference in making everything line up.



Chris
 
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Hi,

It seems that I am not alone with this issue that took almost all my weekend and is still not completed... :confused:

Tried to find all advise on the forum, but nothing really seems to work out for me. Please find my pictures below.

- Rivets are flush.
- Left and Right elevator have some issue.
- Holes on spar aligned perfectly.
- Bend seems to be OK because it fits the skins perfectly
- Can it be imperfections on the horns?

Anyone got some advise for me?

wd605-0.jpg


wd605-1.jpg


wd605-2.jpg


wd605-3.jpg


wd605-4.jpg


wd605-5.jpg


MANY thanks!
 
I had the same trouble on my 7. I ended up ordering a new rib and it fit perfectly. Maybe they had a bad production run on those ribs. That drove me nuts for a few days before I finally gave in and bought the part.
 
Thanks for the suggestion. I contacted VANS.

But I don't see much difference in my initial situation compared to the situation that various other builders had before they managed to get it correct. I think that there most be some kind of method or trick to it.

I also tried to clamp a large nail in the corner and tried to get the rib radius smaller so it better aligns the horn, but that is not really moving that much to correct it.
 
Just for your information. VANS suggested to add a backing plate between the horn and the rib. I have tried that, but it is not really chancing a lot.
 
Radius

There are locations in the kit that things get really tight for the pre-punch technology. In my opinion, this is a good example. To me it would be better if the .125 holes in the end rib were drilled by the builder.

I had to change the radius on the end rib between the rib and the flange. Your third picture shows that if the end rib moved more "into the corner", the pre-punch holes would better align. A smaller radius would seem to accomplish this.
 
There are locations in the kit that things get really tight for the pre-punch technology. In my opinion, this is a good example. To me it would be better if the .125 holes in the end rib were drilled by the builder.

I had to change the radius on the end rib between the rib and the flange. Your third picture shows that if the end rib moved more "into the corner", the pre-punch holes would better align. A smaller radius would seem to accomplish this.

Hi,

I agree with you. Both elevators have exactly the same issue. I didn't change the original radius that much during the attachment of the spar to the rib that it should change the alignment this much. Could it be a issue with the corner of the horn? But the skins fit perfectly on the assembly. :confused:

I have tried to make the radius smaller based on an advise from another builder. I used a large nail in the corner and a vise grid attempting to pull the rib to the horn, but it doesn't move. It is difficult to find grip on the horn without damaging it. As I already match drilled the holes in the spar, because they aligned perfectly, I rather not drill out the rivets that attach the spar to the rib.

If you would have an idea or method to do so, I would be very happy.

Thanks!
 
Pre punch

Always trust the prepunch, it will not fail you. Unless of course you mix up models!
 
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