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Steve Melton 07-28-2019 06:05 AM

you may want to stop drill the sharp corners and use alum speed tape. there is reported low IFR, fog, South of Oshkosh beginning at Dodge, Sunday 7/28 AM. give the day plenty of time to burn that off.

Unexpected aircraft problem while visiting AirVenture? Is something broken, need adjustment, need filling or recharged? Contact or visit the volunteers of EAA Chapter 75 operating the Emergency Aircraft Repair facility, located just south of the Hangar Café about the mid-point of runways 18/36. I could not find their number.

or.... Aircraft Maintenance (Off-site)
Basler Flight Service (920-236-7827) and NewView Technologies (920-303-0709) provide aircraft maintenance services.

Scott Hersha 07-28-2019 06:55 AM

This can probably be patched, but if you decide to build a new rudder (I would), I can help - I have the time, and, um, the place for a while at least. Of course you don?t need to order new fiberglass bottom or top, or new rod end bearings.... or a new trim wedge. Simple fix!

sbalmos 07-28-2019 07:13 AM

Yup, I'm building a new one. Not worth it by the time I drill off the skin, probably bend the trailing edge (it's got 2012-era RTV), etc. I'll save the fiberglass, hardware, counterweight, etc like you mentioned (figured such already).

I'm not leaving here until 11am CT anyway, by the time I return the car, get a terminal bus, patch things up with the Universal Repair Weapon, etc. Going around west of Chicago. Maybe 2.5h.

Anyway, back to the 3D printing thread. I've side tracked it enough. :D

Steve Melton 07-28-2019 07:15 AM

take your time. there is nothing more important than getting you home safely.

call me on this number if you have trouble and I'll come to meet you.

five one three two nine zero six two four six

Steve Melton 07-28-2019 06:59 PM

Scott made it home in fine shape with tape on the rudder.

it does make me wonder if someone could create a DASH service for RV rudders/ailerons/wingtips. Perhaps make a fixture to the bottom of the aircraft that could be used to haul a these for DASH delivery.

maybe one in Kentucky and the other in Colorado?

Steve Melton 07-28-2019 07:28 PM

Nylon/Carbon Fiber
RVPlastic is preparing for Nylon/Carbon fiber. Perhaps to build the ultimate fuel cap opener. Hopefully, it will not scratch thru pocket material.

rockwoodrv9 07-28-2019 07:57 PM

Steve, Scotts damage and you last post made me wonder if you could make a round, flat "patch" that a person could epoxy on that would get a person home.

Maybe even a design of some harder plastic, that could be installed on the edge of the elevator and trim tab with a flat surface that might keep it from the sharp edge cutting into the rudder?

Just a thought.

sbalmos 07-28-2019 08:22 PM

Okay, now that I'm awake from my nap and seeing this, it has me thinking of a variant of what Rock is thinking. Even a corner cover of plastic is going to make a nasty dent. So I think what might be interesting to prototype is a larger pair of triangular inserts, shaped to match the gaps between the neutral-position elevator / trim tab and neutral rudder, connected by a bridge piece that is shaped to fit over the neutral rudder trailing edge. Maybe not fully in contact with the rudder, but filling the gap enough that a gust will not generate enough kinetic swing of the rudder to make a dent when it impacts the plastic.

My fundamental problem this week was exactly what AirGizmos warns of in their instructions, albeit mentioned only for the 10. The 9A rudder is too tall for a person standing on the ground to reach up and slip into the counterbalance swing slot. The AirGizmos instructions mention needing to use a ladder to reach it. Who, honestly, is going to have a ladder in the majority of the places where they fly out to and use those paddles? In reality, this situation affects the 10, the 9A, (probably) the 7A, and I'm betting the 14A. No idea about the 12, although I saw a number of the Teenflight 12s' rudders at OSH also flapping in the wind. Your only protection at that point is whether you built your rudder horn stop brackets right!

Snowflake 07-29-2019 08:52 AM

I still think the best rudder stop is the U-shaped metal rod that goes between a hole in the rudder horn and a hole in the rudder stop... Just be sure to hang a long red flag from it so you'll see it in your pre-flight...

That said, and building on Rock's idea above, what about a larger patch that could be epoxied onto each side of the rudder right where the elevator would hit it (to distribute load across a wider area), *and* an insert for the tip of the elevator, to make it less sharp? That would reduce the damage if things start blowing around. Of course it would still be better to stop the motion entirely.

sbalmos 07-29-2019 09:08 AM

Never heard of the metal rod idea. Sometimes it's the forehand-slapping "why didn't I think of that? it's so crazy and simple, it just might work!" ideas that are best.

To be clear on the patch idea though... A temporary patch for a rudder puncture isn't necessary. A few layers of heavy-duty Gorilla tape or equivalent worked perfectly fine for me. The puncture is a puncture, but it's not like it's /HUGE/. It's the size of roughly the end edge of the elevator trailing edge wedge, which is what had enough force to puncture and tear the skin.

I don't think we're talking about making a kick-plate patch that would be patched on a perfectly fine rudder, as a preventative measure, are we?

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