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-   -   Alternative adhesive for Click Bond nutplates (https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=194177)

UnPossible 04-09-2021 03:05 PM

Alternative adhesive for Click Bond nutplates
 
Hey - I am working on mounting many of the small Garmin avionics boxes on the subpanel and there are a few places where a click-bond nutplate looks like it will come in handy.

I have a bunch left over from my RV-7A build, but I don't have any adhesive. Has anyone successfully used any other adhesives? Wondering if West epoxy or maybe fuel tank sealant might work? Any suggestions?

walter 04-09-2021 03:10 PM

E6000 is what I use. I haven't had anything come apart yet. Clean both surfaces well.

RV7Guy 04-09-2021 06:36 PM

Click Bond Packets
 
I always keep the Click Bond individual use packets on hand. They are really handy when you don't need a bunch of adhesive.

Also, check around for Hysol adhesive. Similar to CB.

Kyle Boatright 04-09-2021 06:49 PM

Depending on how much strength you need, you might try one of the high strength tapes or shoe goo. I've used both of those successfully. Also, I've seen (read?) success stories where builders used JB weld.

PhatRV 04-09-2021 07:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by UnPossible (Post 1516829)
Hey - I am working on mounting many of the small Garmin avionics boxes on the subpanel and there are a few places where a click-bond nutplate looks like it will come in handy.

I have a bunch left over from my RV-7A build, but I don't have any adhesive. Has anyone successfully used any other adhesives? Wondering if West epoxy or maybe fuel tank sealant might work? Any suggestions?

You can try epoxy thickened with flox and carbosil. It is basically similar to the more expensive Clickbond adhesive that has been formulates to not run on vertical surface.

UnPossible 04-09-2021 07:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PhatRV (Post 1516868)
You can try epoxy thickened with flox and carbosil. It is basically similar to the more expensive Clickbond adhesive that has been formulates to not run on vertical surface.


That's kind of what I was thinking..... and I have lots of expoy, flox and cabosil.

jjb 04-09-2021 08:15 PM

Adhesive For Clickbond Nutplates
 
I am using various Clickbond products in my RV-7 build, enough to keep a supply of the recommended Clickbond CB200-40 adhesive on hand. Depending on how many nutplates you plan to install, it is understandable that you may not want to purchase a 40ml cartridge ($43 approx including UPS shipping from ACS.)

But as suggested above, the small packets of CB200-40 adhesive are available if you only plan on a couple of nutplates. The cost of them adds up fast if more than a few nutplates are involved, justifying the 40ml cartridge price. By looking at the usual online sources including the auction sites, you can obtain the cartridge applicator gun for $20 approx. A mixing nozzle is not required and for small jobs wastes too much mixed adhesive inside the nozzle itself. Just squeeze out what you need from the cartridge directly onto a piece of foil or paper, and mix the two components by hand like you would with the small packets.

There are undoubtedly other consumer grade adhesives that might work, if economy is the only consideration.

I elected to not use anything other than the recommended adhesive, especially for Clickbond nutplates. My reason is that the nutplates are normally put in a place where dealing with them later would be difficult if the adhesive failed, at least they were in my RV-7 project.

That said, Clickbond CB200-40 adhesive is a methyl methacrylate based adhesive. Methyl methacrylate adhesives are used in critical applications, like human joint replacements and various industrial structural assembly processes where high strength is required but riveting or welding is not possible.

If I were looking for a substitute, I would look for something methyl methacryate based (it is different from crazy glue, and definitely is not epoxy/flox/cabosil although I have no opinion on whether those would work).

An example is the 3M Scotch Weld DP8410NS series. But there is no significant economy with using that instead of the Clickbond brand.

RidiculousM 04-09-2021 09:41 PM

MetalSet A4 works Great. Also 3M Scotch Weld but its pricy so I use MetalSet.

Ironflight 04-09-2021 11:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PhatRV (Post 1516868)
You can try epoxy thickened with flox and carbosil. It is basically similar to the more expensive Clickbond adhesive that has been formulates to not run on vertical surface.

The thing about the CLickBond adhesive is that when it is cured, you can still scratch it with your fingernail - it doesn’t get rock hard like resin/hard er/filler. I think that slight give makes it less likely to pop off.

That said, in times past, I have attached pseudo-CB standoffs and cable-tie attach points with Shoe-Goo and 6000 adhesives successfully.

Paul

fixnflyguy 04-10-2021 05:41 AM

Proseal
 
If you have any Proseal left over, it is a marvelous adhesive that stays pliable and withstands elements. At my dayjob working airliners it is used for many bonding scenarios as well as fuel tanks. All my tie-wrap bases in my RV-4 are bonded in with Proseal.

Walt 04-10-2021 06:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fixnflyguy (Post 1516935)
If you have any Proseal left over, it is a marvelous adhesive that stays pliable and withstands elements. At my dayjob working airliners it is used for many bonding scenarios as well as fuel tanks. All my tie-wrap bases in my RV-4 are bonded in with Proseal.

Yep what he said!

flysrv10 04-10-2021 06:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fixnflyguy (Post 1516935)
If you have any Proseal left over, it is a marvelous adhesive that stays pliable and withstands elements. At my dayjob working airliners it is used for many bonding scenarios as well as fuel tanks. All my tie-wrap bases in my RV-4 are bonded in with Proseal.

Yep, pro seal. No matter what the problem is, pro seal is your answer.

PhatRV 04-10-2021 06:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ironflight (Post 1516921)
The thing about the CLickBond adhesive is that when it is cured, you can still scratch it with your fingernail - it doesn’t get rock hard like resin/hard er/filler. I think that slight give makes it less likely to pop off.

That said, in times past, I have attached pseudo-CB standoffs and cable-tie attach points with Shoe-Goo and 6000 adhesives successfully.

Paul

So far I've been using it on the Clickbond tie wrap anchors. I will monitor how the epoxy will standup after I get this thing built.

Vol88 04-10-2021 08:50 AM

DIY bond studs
 
Bob Nuckolls tested several ways of bonding studs to aluminum, including JB Weld and E6000. He also tested several different substitutes for Click Bond studs. Here's a link to his results:

http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles...nd%20Studs.pdf

In my case, I decided on E6000 to reattach some failed tie-wrap anchors that a previous builder installed under the baggage floor.


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