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-   -   RV-12: Engine Mounting Cap Screws Inspection (https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=65020)

JBPILOT 08-03-2011 01:17 PM

That'd be my assumption - -
 
275.4 hour written in log book this morning. You can actually put your arms under the prop and lift the nose off the ground, and you can feel if anything is coming loose. I have checked mine each time I have the top cowl off, and everything seems to be staying in place. 'BLUE' & 30# torque, and mark them. Should be good to go.

John Bender

Peterk 08-03-2011 02:00 PM

245 hours here...no problems.

Pete

Geico266 08-03-2011 04:38 PM

200 hours and they have not budged. Blue loctite and retorqued.

Thank you one and all for all your testing, hard work, and posting to this critical subject.

JBPILOT 08-22-2011 10:35 AM

Positive report - -
 
I have not had the cowls off for a while, so I took both off this morning just to look at everything.

290.5 hours after a test flight, and the engine mounting bolts have not moved. They have over 200 hours with Locktite 'blue', and 30# torque. Didn't see anything else of concern, so I checked the carb balance again. Adjusted it a tich. Good to go.

John Bender

Geico266 04-11-2012 12:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by funflying (Post 648822)
John,

This information has showed up on many different threads but I noted your hours report and wanted to get your input on senders.
Glad to read the cap bolts are holding well with torque and blue loctite.

My question is are still using the same :
-fuel sender
-oil pressure sender
-fuel pump
?????

Thanks

It would be better to start a new thread on your subject. This helps stop thread drift into another subject, when the engine bolts are pretty serious.

johns4689 05-02-2012 07:24 AM

RV-12 engine mounting bolts
 
75 hours on my RV-12 and I'm the next victim. All bolts were loose and the lower right was ready to fall out. My problem is getting to the top left bolt. I guess I'm in ounting boltsfor some tedious work.

MartySantic 05-02-2012 07:40 AM

John,

Were the bolts torqued to the NEW value (360 in-lbs)? Did you use blue locktite? To access the upper left, you will have to modify the shroud. I cut a piece out of the shroud as suggested by another builder. The piece is thus, removable. The service bulletin has you modifying that portion of the shroud and doing a bit of fiberglass work.

Tony_T 05-02-2012 10:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by johns4689 (Post 655397)
75 hours on my RV-12 and I'm the next victim. All bolts were loose and the lower right was ready to fall out. My problem is getting to the top left bolt. I guess I'm in ounting boltsfor some tedious work.

John, you didn't say whether your engine has the original cooling shroud or the later modified one. If you have the later modified one you should be able to get a ball-end allen on the top left bolt after removing the carb. If you have to take off the drip pan you will need to replace the O-ring so you might consider ordering that ahead of time. You can find the part number in the online Rotax Illustrated Parts list.
If you have the original cooling shroud then you will need to modify it. As Marty said the service bulletin shows how to modify it. Before the company service bulletin came out some of us did it by making a removeable piece to allow access to the bolt:

More pics here on this mod.

Tony

johns4689 05-02-2012 03:47 PM

Thanks for the pictures. I have the original shroud. I'll start working on cutting a piece out tomorrow. I know the bolt is loose because the allen head is up against the shroud. I had the bolts torques to 26 lbs but did not use locktite. I now have them torqued to 30 lbs. and am using blue locktite.
It was scarey seeing the lower right bolt ready to fall out.

jersey 05-02-2012 07:08 PM

Kind of scary ain't it....:eek:

Looks like you found the pictures your looking for.

Gary


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