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Oil filter trick?

Ironflight

VAF Moderator / Line Boy
Mentor
I've posted before about tricks for changing the filter on our Lyc's without spilling all over the back of the case, and I have learned from all the posts I got. The last couple of oil changes have been virtually spotless! Today I learned another trick that maybe everyone else knows! I always warm the engine up before draining the oil - that way, you get to feel the pain of maintenance as you burn yourself on hot components. Today I warmed things up (like they really needed it in south Texas in July!), and then got distracted by hangar chatter and lunch for over an hour.

When I got back, things were cool to the touch, but the oil was plenty warm. I drained the sump, and set up my catch basin and rags so I could be drip-free when I spun the filter off. I did the twist an d flip to catch it all - and there was NOTHING in the filter! To the point where I had to cut it open and make sure that oil actually HAD been in the filter for the past 50 hours! Yup, the paper was nicely soaked - but the hour and a half it had sat was enough to drain everything that would spill I guess.... :D

From now on, maybe lunch while it is draining is a good idea! (By the way, I have the 45-degree angled filter mount - not the style that comes straight back of the engine.)

Paul
 
Nice

Good idea, although I have the traditional spin on filter that goes stright back, so may be I need to hang the plane from the tail to get it to work. :D (I am only partially kidding, may be prop-up the tail wheel to put the plane level or slight nose down?)
 
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For the conventional filter setup (not 45 or right-angle), punch a hole in the filter. Put a funnel under it with tubing running down to the oil bucket or a catch can. Loosen the filter 180 degrees. Punch another hole in the filter (helps a bit).

FWIW, I leave it like that overnight while the sump also drains. The next morning everything is bone dry.
 
I've always thought one reason for draining the oil immediately after an engine run is so any heavy stuff (sand, metal bits, sludge, etc) is still more or less suspended in the oil and goes out the drain tube with the oil.

Let the engine sit for a while and the junk sinks to the bottom of the sump and may not drain as well.

Just a theory. Worth every bit of what you paid for it. ;-)
 
Kyle Boatright said:
I've always thought one reason for draining the oil immediately after an engine run is so any heavy stuff (sand, metal bits, sludge, etc) is still more or less suspended in the oil and goes out the drain tube with the oil.

Let the engine sit for a while and the junk sinks to the bottom of the sump and may not drain as well.

I do something similar on my 45 deg angle filter, but I: fly, drain oil, futz with other airplane stuff or bs with pilots for an hour, then do the filter. Easy cheezy and all the evil stuff comes out.
 
So I put one of the 45 adaptors on mine in the quest to make cleaner changes... however it has been my understanding that the 45 adapter uses filters with anti-drainback valves in them... Wouldn't that keep the oil in the filter?
 
akarmy said:
So I put one of the 45 adaptors on mine in the quest to make cleaner changes... however it has been my understanding that the 45 adapter uses filters with anti-drainback valves in them... Wouldn't that keep the oil in the filter?
Yes, but.....you don't dump the whole filter, but you still get considerable drips and drainage - enough to make a mess!

I concur with the "warm it, drain it, walk away...then come back and do the filter" crowd!

Paul
 
oil change trics

I always change the oil when it's good and hot, preferably after a flight of an hour or more. Here's my recipe: As soon as the engine is decowled, I put a hose on my quick drain and begin draining the sump. Then I loosen the filter just a little bit, so it's still sealed at the gasket, but able to turn. I then use a punch to put a hole in the filter (on top). I then use a "shake & bake" bag (or pick your brand of oven cooking bag) and put it over the filter so the excess bag material is below the filter. I pull the edges of the bag up tight, so no oil can leak between the filter mount bracket and the bag. I secure the bag into position with clamps or just good old masking tape. I then rotate the filter so the hole is on the lower side and allow it to drain into the oven baking bag. After the oil drains from the filter, I reach into the bag and unscrew the filter, removing it to a drain pan. Any remaining oil can drain into the bag. After a half hour or so, there will be no more drips from the oil filter mount, so I proceed with replacing the filter and refill the engine. No drips, no mess.
 
Draining Oil Filter

This is a little off topic but.....I do an oil analysis at every oil change by taking a sample midstream while the oil (yes we are still talking about oil..) is hot/warm so that any metals that are suspended will be caught......Poking a hole in the filter to drain it is a good idea, which I'll try the next change.... :cool:
 
I did the hole in the filter trick a couple of times, but I must have done it wrong, becasue I still ended up with half a filter full of oil - and when I tipped it up to keep that from spilling, then the hot oil poured out fo the hole and on to my hand....

Like I said - still learning!(almost makes me long for the simple screen on my old Grumman...(but not really).

Paul
 
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