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Water trap for compressor

C

cwoodyfly2001

Member
I am going to be getting a new compressor and I would like to put it in the shed on the side of the house for space savings and noise.. My question is should I put the water trap next to the compressor or at the end just before I connect the hose?
Thanks
 
water trap

Not next to the compressor. You need the give the air some distance to cool off. Hot air right next to the compressor will retain most of the moisture. A long length of extra hose before the trap will help a lot.
 
Water trap

Rich is right, place a water trap at the end ( point of use).

An ideal setup to remove water and oil would be a combo consisting of :
1- water trap, 2- filter w/ 5 micron element, 3- oil mist seperator w/ .3 micron element, 4- regulator/ gauge.

And to get the air dry ( lower the dew point) , add a membrain dryer$$.

Be sure to make it easey to drain the tank on a daily basis.


Ed
 
If you check with Harbor Freight, you can find an automatic blow down system that drains the water every time the compressor cycles. I added it to my system and have never had water left in the tank.

Paul
 
Auto Drain?

pczar3 said:
If you check with Harbor Freight, you can find an automatic blow down system that drains the water every time the compressor cycles. I added it to my system and have never had water left in the tank.
Click to expand...
william weesner said:
... also the the auto drain is very nice.
Click to expand...
So if I understand you correctly, when the compressor kicks on, the drain opens and the accumulated water is automatically purged. Correct? I always seem to forget to drain the tank, so this seems like an attractive solution to me.
 
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water trap

Have I missed something? I have a small compressor given to me by my neighbor and tapped in a 20 gallon (big tall) propane tank to have a larger air supply. I have never drained anything and don't think I filter anything either. I do oil the tools as they are used (manually as I feel needed). The entire airframe of the 10 is complete with no problems from the air supply. Including painting the interior with primer and the cabin with UV prime. Where did I miss out on spending more of the kids college fund?
 
Does it get humid in NE?

How about a specific rec for a water remover? I have a Campbell-Hausfield water remover / filter (from Lowes) but it doesn't do squat for water.
Today while drilling (countersinking all the skin to spar holes on the wing spars - so lots of compressor running) my drill was starting to spit water. Any suggestions?
Oh yeah - and it is typical miserable Indiana summer - hot and HUMID ... and I don't have A/C in the shop yet :(

Thomas
-8 wings
 
TShort said:
How about a specific rec for a water remover? I have a Campbell-Hausfield water remover / filter (from Lowes) but it doesn't do squat for water.
Click to expand...
Try adding some pipe between the compressor and the water trap. I have 12-16' (can't remember) of copper pipe running back and forth along the wall. I have the same CH water trap and it does great as long as the air has had time to cool and condense. Granted I'm in Seattle, so the humidity here is not as bad.
IMG_2977.jpg
 
True. But it rarely feels humid here, compared to other parts of the country. Maybe because it just doesn't get very hot during the rainy season (Oct-Jun).

Sometimes the water trap is empty for weeks, and then suddenly it's full. There's some weird dynamic with temp + humidity + compressor. If only I could remember anything from thermodynamics in college... :rolleyes:
 
My copper line goes vertically up the wall for about 6 ft., then along the wall with a slight upslope for about 20 ft., then down 5ft, then back across, slightly downhill for about 10 ft. and lastly, vertically down for about 3 ft. to my water separator and pressure regulator. At the bottom of every vertical line I have a drain valve.

I get water out of the bottom of the tank and at the first drain (the bottom of the first vertical run). I get water vapor (fog) at the next valve, never water droplets. Never had any water farther down the system.

Places like Indiana that have warm humid summers should have the most water, as warm air holds more water. Even though it rains all winter here in western Oregon, I don't get much water because cold air doesn't hold much.
 
Getting the water out.

FYI only:
I used this industrial brand. Gets 99% of the water. It does not reduce the dew point. Has automatic float type drain or manual operated drain. The filter element is replaced every two years. Installs just ahead of the filter / regulator.
Go to www.alliedelec.com as one source. For more details on related items to to www.smcusa.com.



Allied Stk#: 499-0316
Mfr's part #: AMG150-N02D
Manufacturer: SMC Corporation
Description: AIR DRYER, AMBIENT, PNEUMATIC, 1/4IN. NPT, N.O. AUTO DRAIN
Datasheet: View Datasheet PDF

2


$67.32
Each
 
Auto Drain Resource

In researching the Auto Drain, I came across this web site. I thought it was useful, and thought others might as well.

Edit...
I also found links to the manuals for the HF auto drain valves
Model 46960
Model 42221
 
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bmbluhm said:
Have I missed something? I have a small compressor given to me by my neighbor and tapped in a 20 gallon (big tall) propane tank to have a larger air supply. I have never drained anything and don't think I filter anything either. I do oil the tools as they are used (manually as I feel needed). The entire airframe of the 10 is complete with no problems from the air supply. Including painting the interior with primer and the cabin with UV prime. Where did I miss out on spending more of the kids college fund?
Click to expand...

LOL. Just wait until the bottom blows out of that tank and sends it thorugh your ceiling!
 
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