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dual LSE coupler crimp instead of solder

G

Gonzo24

Well Known Member
I have just fought the fight to get my LSE couplers that go to the controllers from the crank trigger through the firewall pass-throughs. These 15P couplers come pre soldered from the supplier. They are probably ok as is but I'm concerned that the long term vibration may cause the solder joints to break.

For those that have gone this route before... did you leave the wires soldered or bite the bullet and crimp on new d sub pins and replace the soldered on couplers with push ins? This looks like a "fun" coupler to crimp with the shielded-shared connections and close proximity.

would potting the soldered areas with E6000 glue to fix the terminals so they can't vibrate be a good option. 'lectric Bob seems to suggest this alot in his writings.

thanks,

jeff
 
I ended up coiling up the excess wire on the firewall side and left it the way it was. Soldered pins are not ideal but they will be fine as long as the wires are supported. A dab of E6000 would not hurt either. I then completed my wiring from the cockpit side through a smaller opening in the firewall and crimped on the other side of the D-sub.

After buying a crimping tool for d-sub pins, it is MUCH easier to crimp them than solder. However, you need all the right tools, pins, receptors, etc.
 
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Cut and crimped. This also allowed a smaller firewall penetration. AFM8 crimpers can be found on ebay pretty cheap. You will need the right positioner (K13). Stein has the pins. He also has the crimper and positioners, but new, they are quite expensive. I picked mine up for $85, positioner and crimper.
 
crimping

Randy, Alton:

I do have the DMC crimp tool and positioner. fortunately I picked it off Ebay a few months ago for a good price for the many wiring tasks.

I appreciate your feedback. There were a few examples of guys crimping this same connector and the trials of doing so on a builder's sites I found after much searching this afternoon. Looks like I am going this route. Should be an adventure.



AltonD said:
Cut and crimped. This also allowed a smaller firewall penetration. AFM8 crimpers can be found on ebay pretty cheap. You will need the right positioner (K13). Stein has the pins. He also has the crimper and positioners, but new, they are quite expensive. I picked mine up for $85, positioner and crimper.
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I have dual LSI and left the connectors on (with the back shell off and the connector turned sideways it doesn't take a very big hole to get them through the FW) I have had absolutely no issues at all.
 
Walt said:
I have dual LSI and left the connectors on (with the back shell off and the connector turned sideways it doesn't take a very big hole to get them through the FW) I have had absolutely no issues at all.
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Good move!
 
great feedback

guys, this is a very good example of posting a question and getting excellent, specific feedback by folks that have been there..done that. thanks for your time to post your results. now we just need some good 'ol thread drift to make it official!
 
Which "drift" would you prefer? We could try any of the following:

1. "If you solder any of your wires your airplane will fall out of the sky"

2. "Why have electronic ignition, it doesn't save you anything"

3. "You should switch from LSE to (pick your ignition) because it is better"

I'm sure there's a dozen more. Chime in with your favorite drift topics that would fit for this thread.
 
f1rocket said:
I'm sure there's a dozen more. Chime in with your favorite drift topics that would fit for this thread.
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It will work better with a primmed tip-up tail dragger with fuel injection and a CS Catto prop.
 
perfect

You guys hit it right on the head! Personally I was thinking that if I don't alumiprep, alodine and epoxy prime the pins before I crimp then they may fall off as I am doing an overhead break at a non towered, congested airfield full of RV haters.

Hey anyone going to Reno to get away from the hot WX in TX? I should be using slick mags with the red paint job I'm planning anyway. better use the 74" prop instead of the 72 with composite blades... could explode.
 
Crimp or Solder

I have been scratching my head about this as well. My main issue is that I would like to finish the wiring from the ignition switches to the LSE modules before I permanently mount the engine. The wires soldered the to connector that go to the ignition switches are going to be a pain to route once I rivet on the front top skin.

Klaus is pretty adamant about leaving his wires soldered on. Another builder told me he had an issue with cold solder connections.

I am a big believer in the advantages of the crimped connectors. Still, I worry that I will somehow foul stuff up by cutting off the soldered connectors and crimping my own. Can anyone direct me to other discussions on the subject?

Decisions, decisions.

Regards,

Michael Wynn
RV 8 Wiring
San Ramon, CA
 
Understand where Klaus is coming from. He's probably aftaid that if you cut off the wires and re-pin them, you'll make a mistake and then blame his unit for some problem. I understand his position and don't blame him.

But, wiring is not black magic. If it makes it easier to cut the connector off, CUT IT OFF! It's just crimps and pins. No big deal as long as you have the right tool, quality pins, and the proper receptacle. Go for it, no need to torture yourself over it. I found crimping the pins to result in a better connection than me trying to clumsily get my solder iron on the right pin, etc. Crimp and snap, you're done! Call SteinAir and get the stuff to do it right and you'll be a happy camper.
 
f1rocket said:
Which "drift" would you prefer? We could try any of the following:

1. "If you solder any of your wires your airplane will fall out of the sky"

2. "Why have electronic ignition, it doesn't save you anything"

3. "You should switch from LSE to (pick your ignition) because it is better"

I'm sure there's a dozen more. Chime in with your favorite drift topics that would fit for this thread.
Click to expand...

Magnetos are working fine so far. :)
 
Neal@F14 said:
Don't forget the chromed valve covers!
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ANY chrome added to an airplane makes it go faster. I added a chrome pitot tube and picked up at least 5 knots. Valve covers have to be good for at least 2-3 with the cowling on (5-6 on the ground with the cowling off).
 
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