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Photographer question--picts with props stopped(in air)

mark manda

Well Known Member
I have a question for serious photographers.

Is it just me who thinks it is totally unprofessional to take in air picts with a setting so high that the propellers are stopped?

Thanks for any input.
 
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Unprofessional? On what grounds?

Photography is an art, and it's up to the artist how they want the photo to appear. Unless of course you are paying for the shots, then it's how you want them to appear.
 
Check our Victor Archers airpics @www.pbase.com/marauder61. He's pretty much set the standard in my opinion.
Tom RV3
 
Stopped Prop

mark manda said:
I have a question for serious photographers.

Is it just me who thinks it is totally unprofessional to take in air picts with a setting so high that the propellers are stopped?

Thanks for any input.
What if the pilot couldn't keep it windmilling while gliding it in? :)
 
Shutter Speed controls the prop motion

1/250th of a second is the fastest shutter speed you can use without freezing the prop on most aircraft. The real issue becomes controling camera vibration at 1/250th and slower shutter speeds, especially with zoom or telephoto lenses. In an other life while shooting for AP and UPI, I used a Kenyon Gyrostabilizer, http://www.ken-lab.com/, that enabled the control of camera vibration down to 1/30th of a second shutter speed and keep the props from freezing. I always shot either Tri X or K64, in manual mode, with manual focus. The advent of effective auto focus was a god send, but the rest of the automation, while allowing the photog to concentrate on framing and composition, took away the mathmatical mystique of calculating the proper exposure, etc.

Good luck with your photos.
 
Probably known

Hard Knox said:
1/250th of a second is the fastest shutter speed you can use without freezing the prop on most aircraft. The real issue becomes controling camera vibration at 1/250th and slower shutter speeds, especially with zoom or telephoto lenses. In an other life while shooting for AP and UPI, I used a Kenyon Gyrostabilizer, http://www.ken-lab.com/, that enabled the control of camera vibration down to 1/30th of a second shutter speed and keep the props from freezing. I always shot either Tri X or K64, in manual mode, with manual focus. The advent of effective auto focus was a god send, but the rest of the automation, while allowing the photog to concentrate on framing and composition, took away the mathmatical mystique of calculating the proper exposure, etc.

Good luck with your photos.

Robby, now they use gyro stabilized glass in the lense itself. Canon has a few of them out for their 35mm Digital and film cameras. I own a 75-300 IS (image stabilized) lense for a couple of Digital Canons (Rebel and D20). The L IS lenses are more preferred as they will support up and down as well as panning motion. The one I have does a good job of up and down, but panning it's it's strong suit. (its not an L lense - these are sorta big bucks)
 
Nikon?

I always shot Nikon and Hasselblad. Canon always changed lens mounts with every new body series, but Nikon had the same mount from the 50s to present, thus allowing any camera to use any lens. Nothing against Canon, but Nikon was what every pro I knew shot, thus a lot of stuff to borrow and use. I met with Nikon, in January, at Macworld 2006, to investigate the digital world of photography, but Bill Pekala and I just talked about the old days shooting Shuttle launches in the 80s and back seat photo rides in fighters.
 
thanks for the input-- great links.

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http://members2.clubphoto.com/camm1033411/4031921/guest.phtml
 
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picts with props stopped(in air)

I believe it's a personal preference. I don't care for an in flight stopped prop picture. I feel as though the photographer is "showing off" his ability to shoot at high shutter speeds.

Furthermore, the naked eye can't stop the prop so it looks funny (to me) when the photo has a stopped prop.

IMO
 
Slower takes more skill

Robert:

I agree. A stopped prop looks too much like a model. To get a sharp, focused photo, below 1/500th, take either expensive or practic and skill.

IMHO FWIW
 
Hadn't really thought about it...

Interesting post. I hadn't really thought about having a stopped prop or not. I've simply been just interested in getting a clear shot. When I downloaded my shots from Sun n Fun of the Heritage flight, I was surprised to find the stopped prop on the P-51, but thought it was kinda cool. Having seen this thread, it made me wonder what it would look like with the prop in action... it probably would look a bit better (but at the same time, more typical)

I'll probably experiment with the more elusive clear shot with the turning prop now. Sounds like a challenge!
 
Here's my picture of the P-51 on the ground. Whoever said getting crisp shots at 1/125 wasn't lying. I didn't have a tripod so .. yah. You can see my results.


I had to go to 1/125 since he was idling, anything higher would have stopped the prop. There's a picture of a Mooney in my gallery that's at full power for take off, luckily 1/500 was enough to blur the prop.
 
Its not just shutter speed

The general rule of thumb for when you need a tripod is when the denominator of the shutter speed is less than the focal length of the lens. That is, if you are using a 250 mm telephoto you need to shoot at 1/250 or faster if your aren't using a tripod. If you are shooting with a standard 50mm, you can hand shoot at 1/60 or faster. Those who don't consume caffeine and have low stress lives can go lower. It is just a general rule of thumb.
 
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