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RV-10 Proseal for elevator foam ribs question

J

jchang10

Well Known Member
This is a question i posted to Van's with the following response. I was curious what others may have done at this same spot? It seems like an unnecessary thing to have to mask off these 2 areas per elevator in the skins, where i have been doing the whole alumiprep, alodine, and epoxy primer, everywhere else. not sure if all the masking is worth it?

Thanks for the feedback!

To: Van's Support

Hi again,

I am on page 9-14 of the -10 plans, where proseal is called for to affix the elevator foam ribs to the elevator skins. i have no prior experience with proseal, so i could use some guidance on this.

i see on the accessories catalog at http://www.vansaircraft.com/cgi-bin/catalog.cgi?browse=misc&product=proseal, there are 3 sizes available. i would think getting the 1qt size is probably overkill for this application? do you know which size is recommended that i order for doing the foam ribs. i know proseal is used for the wings and fuel tanks, however, is it required anywhere else in the tail kit?

finally, i have been applying an epoxy primer to the inside of my skins so far. do you know if proseal over an epoxy primer is okay? or should i somehow try to mask things so proseal sticks to bare aluminum?

Thank you for any advice!

Jae

Van's Response:

A quart is a way more than you need for this small job, but will be
useful when you get to the tanks. We do have proseal in 1 0z
size, too

If you are priming, you'll want to mask off the area where the rib will
be bonded on.
 
Yes and yes w/Vans advice:
1. Definitely mask off the trailing edge (or anywhere else you are using proseal--didn't know the 10 had foam in the elevators). The proseal sticks much better without the primer.

2. The quart may seem like too much now, but you will use it other places on the airplane besides the fuel tank. Thus, if you have too much left over and won't get to the tanks before the proseal expires, just keep it in the fridge or freezer and use it for the many other non-critical applications you'll find later. For example, your (big) flaps and ailerons are going to require some of it on the trailing edges, if you choose to finish them with some sort of adhesive.

Those little packages of proseal that they sell are, in my opinion, a waste of money. The cost quite a bit and usually you have waste left over anyway.

Hope this helps.
 
jchang10 said:
This is a question i posted to Van's with the following response. I was curious what others may have done at this same spot? It seems like an unnecessary thing to have to mask off these 2 areas per elevator in the skins, where i have been doing the whole alumiprep, alodine, and epoxy primer, everywhere else. not sure if all the masking is worth it?

Thanks for the feedback!

To: Van's Support

Hi again,

I am on page 9-14 of the -10 plans, where proseal is called for to affix the elevator foam ribs to the elevator skins. i have no prior experience with proseal, so i could use some guidance on this.

i see on the accessories catalog at http://www.vansaircraft.com/cgi-bin/catalog.cgi?browse=misc&product=proseal, there are 3 sizes available. i would think getting the 1qt size is probably overkill for this application? do you know which size is recommended that i order for doing the foam ribs. i know proseal is used for the wings and fuel tanks, however, is it required anywhere else in the tail kit?

finally, i have been applying an epoxy primer to the inside of my skins so far. do you know if proseal over an epoxy primer is okay? or should i somehow try to mask things so proseal sticks to bare aluminum?

Thank you for any advice!

Jae

Van's Response:

A quart is a way more than you need for this small job, but will be
useful when you get to the tanks. We do have proseal in 1 0z
size, too

If you are priming, you'll want to mask off the area where the rib will
be bonded on.
Click to expand...


If you already primed the inside of the skin, mask off the width of the rib.This will protect the alclad around the rib. Sand off the primer with 220 then roughen the surface with something a little more abrasive. If you sand too deeply, and remove alclad fron the the rib area, don't fret. The proseal will protect the aluminum from corrosion. If you happen to be at Sun N' Fun this year, myself and my assistant, Charile Kuss give a workshop on aluminum corrosion and protection. We do demos on how to properly etch and chromic convert aluminum.
It runs from Friday through Sunday.


cheers

Peter Laurence
RV9A fuse
 
Thanks

Thanks for the tips. I will go thru the masking effort. proseal is on the way, along with the redo part. ;)

Jae
 
Jae,

I would wait on the can until your ready for the tanks, it does have a shelf life even though it is said that you can extend the life by storing in the freezer...my can was allowed there for three days before being discovered by the better half and banished to the garage...I think the "poison" warning had something to do with it ;)

I think Vans dropped the prosealing of the trailing edges of the Rudder and elevators from the plans although I am a fan of that practice. Other than that I can't think of a need for proseal until the tanks and the firewall on the fuselage and even there I used the high temp Proseal rather than the tank sealant. The smaller tubes might have a shorter working time, the time is found in the last few letters of the part number...ie B2 = 2 hour working time, B1/2 30 minute working time.

Rick S.
40185
Finishing kit
 
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