Rust-Oleum Self-Etching Primer

I was just curious if anyone has used the Rust-Oleum Self-Etching Primer in Rattle cans? I have seen lots on the Sherwin Williams 988 or the NAPA 7220, but nothing on the Rust-Oleum product.

Welcome to VAF. Get comfortable with the "Search" option. You'll find a great history of lot's of relevant discussions.

Rustoleum worked well for me. Certainly simple. I used DAP at first and then about half way through my build I switched to Rustoleum.

Welcome to the madness .

I have used both Duplicolor and Rust-oleum rattle can self-etching primers for priming mating surfaces. However, I found both are easily removed with MEK or lacquer thinner. I have found that the longer both are allowed to dry/cure the resistance to thinners improves, but not impervious. YMMV.

You guys use this stuff for corrosion protection inside? I was spending $10/can on marine grade green zinc.

Sig600 said:

You guys use this stuff for corrosion protection inside? I was spending $10/can on marine grade green zinc.

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I started that way on my first plane - I could scrape it off with my fingernail. Switched to the Duplicolor self-etcing (most important) for about $4.50/can, and it is much easier to apply for a nice coat.

As always when discussing primers, YMMV!

Paul

sirday11 said:

I was just curious if anyone has used the Rust-Oleum Self-Etching Primer in Rattle cans? I have seen lots on the Sherwin Williams 988 or the NAPA 7220, but nothing on the Rust-Oleum product.

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I have used the Duplicolor self etch and recently tried a can of the Rust-O-leum... My initial thoughts on the Rustoleum is that is sprays WAY to heavily. A quick pass throws so much primer out its rediculous. It also takes alot longer to cure and become scratch resistant as opposed to the duplicolor. For reference, the duplicolor can be sprayed, and literally 2 minutes later its dry. 5 - 10 minutes and you can't scratch it with your fingernail.

I'm sticking with duplicolor!

Thanks

Thanks for the responses I am probably going to give it a try.

Ironflight said:

I started that way on my first plane - I could scrape it off with my fingernail. Switched to the Duplicolor self-etcing (most important) for about $4.50/can, and it is much easier to apply for a nice coat.

As always when discussing primers, YMMV!

Paul

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YMMV?

Thanks for the advice, you just saved me several long drives and a couple of bucks. Already done the green zinc in the empennage which is just about closed up, so you won't see much of that, but everything else is getting Duplicolor.

Sherwin Williams

Sherwin Williams not only sells their 988 primer, they also own Martin Senour (NAPA 7220) and Duplicolor. Interestingly, the MSDSs show their three primers to be similar but not identical.

http://www.sherwin-automotive.com/media/msds/English/1213.pdf
http://www.martinsenour-autopaint.com/msds/martin/english/3198.pdf
http://www.paintdocs.com/webmsds/webPDF.jsp?SITEID=DUPLI&prodno=026916946904&doctype=MSDS&lang=2

Just for grins:

http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGResourceCenter.asp?sn=ms2&msdstyp=PROCBG&msdsprc=397

None of these products are likely to give much protection without at least a cursory topcoat--easy to do with another rattle can.

Rust-Oleum Self Etching Primer

I've been using Rust-Oleum Self Etching Primer during the empennage construction.

After final dimpling or deburring, any scratches created are sanded away with 400grit wet/dry sandpaper and then throughoutly cleaned with mineral spirits to remove dust, oil/grease, sharpie marks, hand marks, sweat, and vinyl adhesive leftovers.

Then a light coat of primer is sprayed, let to dry, part flipped over to a new layer, let to dry, part flipped over for the main/heavy layer, and repeated on the flip side.

Most parts are left to dry overnight before working again on them, and the more it dries, the more difficult it is to remove.

This has worked very well for me, no unnecessary use of air compressor, no paint mess, thus maintaining a clean work area and happy neighbors.

I guess a very important key before priming (with almost any primer to obtain overall good results) is preparing the parts to be primed: that is sanding and/or cleaning so the primer actually etches to the aluminum evenly.

Just for additional information:

I have used the duplicolor self-etch primer throughout my RV-6A build and found it to work very well.

I recently painted my cabin area with PPG OMNI Epoxy Primer and Urethane topcoat. My biggest concern was paint compatability. I have seen paint crinkle and lift when the paint was not compatable with the primer.

I did not have any issue with the duplicolor primer. The PPG epoxy primer stuck fast and there has been no sign of problems. The paint is fully cured now and looks great.

I prepped the duplicolor primer by scuffing with green scotchbrite and fine sandpaper, vaccumed, and wiped with a moist cloth to remove any leftover dust. Acetone and MTK will remove the primer so I didn't use that. thinner may work, but you are better off trying one of the paint-prep grease and oil removers.

I have used rustoleum self etching primer from walmart about 5 bucks a can. I have had good results and good bonding. The thing to remember about rustoleum primer is this, it cures much slower than other primers, until it is completely cured you can scrape it off with your fingernail. The other thing is preparation. I scotchbrited all parts first, my opinion is this must be done, then clean surface with mek or acetone. Then apply rustoleum. I let it cure overnight and I don't put it on too thick. I have found it to work very well for me. Hope this helps answer your question.

bird

Sherwin Williams

I've been using the Sherwin Williams GBP 988 self-etching primer...I had my pre-close inspection today and the inspector was very impressed with the primer used...so much so, he documented the type being used and recorded it for the MDRA folks.

Compared to Zinc cromate, this stuff works great and is tough!

My 2 cents of course...

I used mostly the green DupliColor self-etching primer. Not perfect, but does provide some protection.

I recently tried the "Professional Grade" Rustoleum Aluminum Primer (found at HomeDepot) and I like it better. A little thicker and a nice white (not the grey one mentioned above) and seems to resist scraping off better.