Van's Air Force
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What did it cost to paint your RV
- Thread starter cklick
- Start date
MrNomad
Well Known Member
We did it ourselves!! Highly recommended!
$1500 including etching, primer and Sherwin Williams paint. I did not use graphics. We painted the airplane in sections including welding individual rotisseries for each section. The job took 3 weeks and came out really good. 200 hours later, it still looks great.
$1500 including etching, primer and Sherwin Williams paint. I did not use graphics. We painted the airplane in sections including welding individual rotisseries for each section. The job took 3 weeks and came out really good. 200 hours later, it still looks great.
Minimum cost pro job
I had it done by a pro--a car guy who happened to know aluminum. I did the vinyl graphics so he only shot one color. I did the fiberglass prep; he did the aluminum. No orange peel, dust spots, or other errors I would have made. Total cost was about $3000 and it looks great three years later. It was done prior to final assembly, which saved quite a bit. See http://www.classicaerodesigns.com/web/public/CC/CC2.asp?G=D54A6AF081FF4203982D3EAC1A00FFCE for some shots of it. Using a pro saved weight as he did a great job with about as little paint as possible. No regrets.
Bob Kelly
I had it done by a pro--a car guy who happened to know aluminum. I did the vinyl graphics so he only shot one color. I did the fiberglass prep; he did the aluminum. No orange peel, dust spots, or other errors I would have made. Total cost was about $3000 and it looks great three years later. It was done prior to final assembly, which saved quite a bit. See http://www.classicaerodesigns.com/web/public/CC/CC2.asp?G=D54A6AF081FF4203982D3EAC1A00FFCE for some shots of it. Using a pro saved weight as he did a great job with about as little paint as possible. No regrets.
Bob Kelly
Kokemiller
Well Known Member
I am in the middle of my paint job right now. I am using Sikkens 2 stage with vinyl number and stripe that gets cleared coated over. So far materials alone are looking to be about $3000. The vinyl was only $125. I am trying to do as much prep work as I can and paying my painter to shoot and buff. So far the fuselage is painted and buffed and is by far the nicest finish I've ever had on anything, absolutely show quality. Paint is one of those things where you get what you pay for.
carguy614
Well Known Member
Me too...
Painted mine as well in sections, using single stage urethane over Variprime and light sealer coat. Materials cost was about $1000.00, less paper and tape. Used Western Finishes 3rd. dimension automotive paint, a popular choice for painting over the road trucks, and I am very happy with the results. Easy to use, very durable, high solids product with a fantastic gloss. I get lots of comments on the paint work, but I truthfully didn't set my sights on a show quality job....My only regret is installation of the super high dollar clear 3M leading edge tape. BIG, BIG MISTAKE!!!! Bug guts stain it orange. 100LL stains it blue, 140 hours and it looks like #### The urethane paint releases the bugs and debris with a cold water spritz!! Save your money, or use the black stuff.
The trick is to find a way to support all of the parts properly while painting. Search the archives for some great ideas here. Also, as I have posted before, paint the belly before you roll over the fuse. Get your antenna doublers in there, and lower cowl hinges or camlock supports and paint to the sheet metal overlaps. except for fitting your upper intersection fairings, you will not even be under there much any more. The hardest part is laying on your back to paint the belly. Avoid this hassle all together, and shoot it first.
I will admit I have painted a few cars, so I have some experience wielding a paint gun. But I switched to a HVLP turbine sprayer system for this project. There is a definite learning curve to overcome with the turbine sprayer, as it has much better transfer efficiency, and lays on a bunch of paint. It requires retarding the flash an extra notch to compensate for the hot air the turbine delivers, and some adjustments in handling the gun with it's chubby hose. A little practice is all it takes. I have not yet tried metallics with this system, so I cannot comment on how it works. Metallics, flip flops, and pearls are tricky for the first time painter. Seek some coaching and practice if you go this route.
I always try to get folks to tackle the painting themselves. It is a lot of work, messy, and extremely rewarding. Those of us who don't have unlimited cash flow find great relief in tackling the project. It saves a ton of bucks, and can reduce the cost of your plane by as much as 15 percent.
Also, if on a budget, don't overlook using some of the more affordable automotive finish options. The big company's all have non branded products available that can be had at great savings. (DuPont/Nason, Martin Senour/Western, etc). I use the Nason version of Variprime, same product at less than half the cost.
Lastly, I am not sold yet on waterborne finishes. For instance. My 2007 Pontiac Vibe has a white waterborne finish that is completely deteriorated to the point that the car will get a repaint this year. Absolutely horrible paint finish durability. It sits in my driveway right next to my pewter 2001 Chevy pickup. I bought it almost new but heavily damaged in 2001, straightened it out, and painted it in inexpensive 2 stage base clear from Nason. It amazes me that it still looks like the day I rolled it out of the booth. I wash it infrequently, and it sits in the blazing NC summer sun day after day. I worry about the durability of waterborne finishes on aircraft, especially if they sit on the ramp. They look real nice though, and I have heard they are easy to use.
see my photos on Facebook...here's the link!!
http://www.facebook.com/home.php?#!/album.php?aid=13861&id=1061327521
Regards,
Chris
Painted mine as well in sections, using single stage urethane over Variprime and light sealer coat. Materials cost was about $1000.00, less paper and tape. Used Western Finishes 3rd. dimension automotive paint, a popular choice for painting over the road trucks, and I am very happy with the results. Easy to use, very durable, high solids product with a fantastic gloss. I get lots of comments on the paint work, but I truthfully didn't set my sights on a show quality job....My only regret is installation of the super high dollar clear 3M leading edge tape. BIG, BIG MISTAKE!!!! Bug guts stain it orange. 100LL stains it blue, 140 hours and it looks like #### The urethane paint releases the bugs and debris with a cold water spritz!! Save your money, or use the black stuff.
The trick is to find a way to support all of the parts properly while painting. Search the archives for some great ideas here. Also, as I have posted before, paint the belly before you roll over the fuse. Get your antenna doublers in there, and lower cowl hinges or camlock supports and paint to the sheet metal overlaps. except for fitting your upper intersection fairings, you will not even be under there much any more. The hardest part is laying on your back to paint the belly. Avoid this hassle all together, and shoot it first.
I will admit I have painted a few cars, so I have some experience wielding a paint gun. But I switched to a HVLP turbine sprayer system for this project. There is a definite learning curve to overcome with the turbine sprayer, as it has much better transfer efficiency, and lays on a bunch of paint. It requires retarding the flash an extra notch to compensate for the hot air the turbine delivers, and some adjustments in handling the gun with it's chubby hose. A little practice is all it takes. I have not yet tried metallics with this system, so I cannot comment on how it works. Metallics, flip flops, and pearls are tricky for the first time painter. Seek some coaching and practice if you go this route.
I always try to get folks to tackle the painting themselves. It is a lot of work, messy, and extremely rewarding. Those of us who don't have unlimited cash flow find great relief in tackling the project. It saves a ton of bucks, and can reduce the cost of your plane by as much as 15 percent.
Also, if on a budget, don't overlook using some of the more affordable automotive finish options. The big company's all have non branded products available that can be had at great savings. (DuPont/Nason, Martin Senour/Western, etc). I use the Nason version of Variprime, same product at less than half the cost.
Lastly, I am not sold yet on waterborne finishes. For instance. My 2007 Pontiac Vibe has a white waterborne finish that is completely deteriorated to the point that the car will get a repaint this year. Absolutely horrible paint finish durability. It sits in my driveway right next to my pewter 2001 Chevy pickup. I bought it almost new but heavily damaged in 2001, straightened it out, and painted it in inexpensive 2 stage base clear from Nason. It amazes me that it still looks like the day I rolled it out of the booth. I wash it infrequently, and it sits in the blazing NC summer sun day after day. I worry about the durability of waterborne finishes on aircraft, especially if they sit on the ramp. They look real nice though, and I have heard they are easy to use.
see my photos on Facebook...here's the link!!
http://www.facebook.com/home.php?#!/album.php?aid=13861&id=1061327521
Regards,
Chris
Had mine done my Bobby Potts in Tuscaloosa AL. He did a good job. I think
the best part about having it done professionally was that he was able to
fix a bunch of my goofs in both the aluminum and, especially, the fiberglass.
Cost for base coat PPG and then clear coat was $8000. That seems to be the middle of the road for a quality paint job from my experience.
Peter K
9A
the best part about having it done professionally was that he was able to
fix a bunch of my goofs in both the aluminum and, especially, the fiberglass.
Cost for base coat PPG and then clear coat was $8000. That seems to be the middle of the road for a quality paint job from my experience.
Peter K
9A
N282S
Well Known Member
Not personally painting mine.
Hi Chris,
I was just about to give you some painting advice but then I see you are a painter. But what the heck, advice is worth about what you pay for it.
I've spray painted model airplanes my whole life. Pretty good at it too. Even had a pic in a model magazine. Built a VariEze and of course I painted it myself. As you know, painting a model and a big airplane are two different things. The overspray killed me, the dust was unmanageable, the orange peel was a mess, the curtains and runs were everywhere. Clearly, we all have different skills. All in all it looked like I had used a broom and porch paint.
If you total the cost of graphics (personally, I wouldn't do), paint booth, exhaust fan, HVLP equipment, respirator equipment, paint, tape, plastic, filters, thinner - I mean reducer, rags, setup, cleanup, fixup. Oh, first there is dent patch work, fiberglass pin hole work, acid etch, primer, sanding rough edges... In the end, you will have to decide if the difference is worth it. And saying, "Yes, I painted it myself" is also worth something - I guess.
I was just quoted $6000 from an airplane painting company including dent work and some glass touch up/pin-hole work. Turn key operation. For me, an easy decision.
But, I guess you already know all this, so never mind.
Steve.
Hi Chris,
I was just about to give you some painting advice but then I see you are a painter. But what the heck, advice is worth about what you pay for it.
I've spray painted model airplanes my whole life. Pretty good at it too. Even had a pic in a model magazine. Built a VariEze and of course I painted it myself. As you know, painting a model and a big airplane are two different things. The overspray killed me, the dust was unmanageable, the orange peel was a mess, the curtains and runs were everywhere. Clearly, we all have different skills. All in all it looked like I had used a broom and porch paint.
If you total the cost of graphics (personally, I wouldn't do), paint booth, exhaust fan, HVLP equipment, respirator equipment, paint, tape, plastic, filters, thinner - I mean reducer, rags, setup, cleanup, fixup. Oh, first there is dent patch work, fiberglass pin hole work, acid etch, primer, sanding rough edges... In the end, you will have to decide if the difference is worth it. And saying, "Yes, I painted it myself" is also worth something - I guess.
I was just quoted $6000 from an airplane painting company including dent work and some glass touch up/pin-hole work. Turn key operation. For me, an easy decision.
But, I guess you already know all this, so never mind.
Steve.
hydroguy2
Well Known Member
I'm painting mine.....sort of.
I spoke with a local auto shop, who has painted airplanes and custom cars. I can see his shop from my house. When I'm ready to move to the airport, I'll be dragging my parts to the body shop. He is going to allow me to work in his shop under his direction. If I can't get a handle on the spraying, he'll be there to take over and give me the finish I expect. 3 colors will be a lot of taping, something I know how to do. He said set a side $4000, for shop time and supplies.
I expect it will take a month to paint all the pieces. Hopefully starting in late April or May.
I spoke with a local auto shop, who has painted airplanes and custom cars. I can see his shop from my house. When I'm ready to move to the airport, I'll be dragging my parts to the body shop. He is going to allow me to work in his shop under his direction. If I can't get a handle on the spraying, he'll be there to take over and give me the finish I expect. 3 colors will be a lot of taping, something I know how to do. He said set a side $4000, for shop time and supplies.
I expect it will take a month to paint all the pieces. Hopefully starting in late April or May.
Caveman
Well Known Member
$6156 painted 1 year ago.
The only vinyl graphic is the Caveman Nose Art
Jet Glo and Acry Glo
A.O.G. Mena, Ark
Highly recommended
Paint Cost
Thanks everyone,
Like someone mentioned I am a Painter and I currently work for Cirrus Aircraft.
I also have 6 years working with composite and I know how much of a pain the pinholes can be. I may have some tricks that may help out. If anyone is going to paint there aircraft on there own and need some advice or any help, Please feel free to ask. If you are in the market to have a shop paint it, let me know. I am also part of Midwest Aircraft Refinishing. We have competative pricing and show plane quality.
I have also put together some prices that may help everyone if anyone is interested. Please keep in mind these are an estimated cost and the paint scheme you choose may affect.
Single Stage non metallic color is around $3,500
Base Clear is around $4,500
We do not try and cut corners. We are able to keep the cost down because we have found the best and most effecient wasy to get the job done with out affecting quality. This is form our work in a production setting.
Please feel free to contact me at [email protected] for any questions that you may have or problems that you may run into in regards to paint. I will be more than happy to help out.
Thanks,
Chris Klick
Midwest Aircraft Refinishing Inc.
11038 HWY 37, BLD A
Hibbing, MN 55746
[email protected]
Thanks everyone,
Like someone mentioned I am a Painter and I currently work for Cirrus Aircraft.
I also have 6 years working with composite and I know how much of a pain the pinholes can be. I may have some tricks that may help out. If anyone is going to paint there aircraft on there own and need some advice or any help, Please feel free to ask. If you are in the market to have a shop paint it, let me know. I am also part of Midwest Aircraft Refinishing. We have competative pricing and show plane quality.
I have also put together some prices that may help everyone if anyone is interested. Please keep in mind these are an estimated cost and the paint scheme you choose may affect.
Single Stage non metallic color is around $3,500
Base Clear is around $4,500
We do not try and cut corners. We are able to keep the cost down because we have found the best and most effecient wasy to get the job done with out affecting quality. This is form our work in a production setting.
Please feel free to contact me at [email protected] for any questions that you may have or problems that you may run into in regards to paint. I will be more than happy to help out.
Thanks,
Chris Klick
Midwest Aircraft Refinishing Inc.
11038 HWY 37, BLD A
Hibbing, MN 55746
[email protected]
RV Paint
I used Nason Urethane. I had lots of taping and work involved. The only decals are the tail numbers and cowling emblem. It took my dad and I about 2 months to finish. About 1500 dollars in matereal from Oreilly's parts store fore the paint. We both had painted things before but we didnt use any type of paint booth or other special equipment.
Jim Knight
Burlington Iowa
RV-6
410 hours
I used Nason Urethane. I had lots of taping and work involved. The only decals are the tail numbers and cowling emblem. It took my dad and I about 2 months to finish. About 1500 dollars in matereal from Oreilly's parts store fore the paint. We both had painted things before but we didnt use any type of paint booth or other special equipment.
Jim Knight
Burlington Iowa
RV-6
410 hours
Last edited:
Jerry Cochran
Well Known Member
Black prop?
Man, nice paint scheme and I LOVE the look of that black prop. Please tell us about doing it. Was it DIY? How did you prep same, sanding etc.? What kind of paint?
Inquiring minds, etc.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>
$6156 painted 1 year ago.
The only vinyl graphic is the Caveman Nose Art
Jet Glo and Acry Glo
A.O.G. Mena, Ark
Highly recommended
Man, nice paint scheme and I LOVE the look of that black prop. Please tell us about doing it. Was it DIY? How did you prep same, sanding etc.? What kind of paint?
Inquiring minds, etc.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Caveman
Well Known Member
Jerry, If you are asking about just the prop paint, A.O.G. did that at no extra charge.
If you are asking about the entire airplane most of what you ask is in my first post above the picture. It was a turn key pro job. My girls came up wth the paint scheme and colors. They gave me some extra Caveman graphics just in case those ever fade. The originals still look new one year later. The nose art graphic is from a muscle car I owned when I was a kid. If you look closely, you'll see that the baffle seal material matches the blue paint in the air inlets. Another nice touch that they did for no charge. They did all the prep work. I priced a few other better known shops and this was the best deal within 300 nm on a pro shop at the time. I contacted some VAF members that used AOG and they recommended them. I think they quoted about three weeks and it took about four.
I have painted a car or two in my younger days and wanted nothing to do with it on my airplane. I consider this some of the best money I spent on the airplane. I have great admiration for those who paint their own and it comes out looking nice! I am not a painter!
