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Tip: Roll-Your-Own Annunciator Panel

Ironflight

VAF Moderator / Line Boy
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Roll-Your-Own Annunciator Panel

I am not sure what precipitated it, but in the past three days, I've gotten five emails from people wanting to know about the annunciator panel in my RV-8. It sits just above the top of my two GRT EFIS screens,and fits the dimensions of the stack.

panel8tc.jpg



Naturally, I was incredibly lucky to find something that fit the design so perfectly....not!

In truth, this was a little project that took me one evening to prototype, and another day to build the flight unit. You have to have something to do when the empennage is sitting there finished, and you're waiting on a QB delivery! ;)

I knew from the very start of my panel design that I wanted annunciator lights - some to wake me up to warning conditions (Oil Pressure, EIS alarms), and others to wake me up that I'd left something turnd on (fuel pump, pitot heat, etc.). I am used to having both raw data and "idiot lights", and I saw no reason to change what worked. After looking through lots of catalogs, I didn't find anything that I really liked (or that I liked and could afford), and realized that all I really needed was a bezel in which to mount some LED's.

In a walk through the Aviation Aluminum department of Home Depot, I found an interesting fact - they had square aluminum U-channel in sizes that "nested" inside one another. I realized that if I could cut nice square openings in the bottom of a U, I could use that as the front, and put the next smaller size in from the back as an enclosure to hold the LED's. I purchased anough material to screw up several times, and headed to the shop. It didn't take long to cut the openings and finish them using some needle files. Next, I needed a "glass" front. This was done with a piece of translucent plexiglass from the junk bin (I think it was a flourescent light cover at one time). This was cut to fit inside the U-channel. The colored labels were laid out in Microsoft Word and printed on clear inkjet label stock. fill the area with a colored background, and print your text in bold black,and they'll look nice.

The rear piece is just a bit tricky. You can easily drill a hole to mount a round LED (in a small plastic bezel) behind each label location. But you need to have dividers between each one, or the light from one will light up the whole panel. You do this with thin pieces of aluminum (scrap) glued in between LED's - you can just use a hot glue gun. I actually cut slots (with my band saw) in the rear piece to hold each divider - a bit finicky, but only took a few minutes.

The electrical design is very simple. I "control" each LED with a +12V signal from whatever is being annunciated. (You might have to invert some sensors using a relay, but this is easily figured out). You need a dropping resistor in series with each LED - about 700 Ohms works great. I tied all of the ground sides together into a common ground, and fed this through a 500 Ohm Pot as a dimmer for the whole annunciator. You can experiment with values, and might find you want 1000 Ohms as maximum dim. It will depend on the LED's you get. I am using "superbrite" LED's - little bitty ones are too dim once you put them behind a label.

When you cut out the face-plate, leave some tabs onthe ends to mount it to the panel. I don't have any "in-process" pictures of the project, but here is a finished one which should really give you enough info to go "Ahah! So that's what he did!"

annunciatorpanel0rx.jpg


Let's see, what else? The panel mounts with a couple of brass 4-40 screws through the tabs on the ends. Leave similar tabs on the LED holder, and the whole thing sandwiches the panel and makes for a nice easy mount. I used different color LED's because my local source had them, but you can use all white, and simply control your color with the background of your label. You can argue all day about what to annunciate, and what the colors should be - I'll just refer you to multiple studies on cockpit design, and I am sue that you can find at least one scholarly reference to support just about anything you want to do! :D hey, it's YOUR panel, do what you want!

(I am fortunate to have a local place called the Electronic Parts Outlet that sells a mix of new and surplus components. I can spend hours (and lots of dollars) rummaging through their bins to find stuff to tinker with. If you have to settle for Radio Shack, you CAN get everything there, and the values I gave are a good starting point. )

Have fun tinkering - it's the part of homebuilding that makes it fun for me!

Paul
 
Superb Annunciator

Paul,
I must congratulate you, not just on your annunciator, but the hole cockpit. Beautifully executed.
Very well though out and makes the most of the limited acreage on the -8.

On my -7, with Texas ranch type acreage, I cop'd out and just put them in a row on the panel.

Aren't Dual GRTs are becoming popular.

Pete.
 
Annunciator

Ingeniously creative. Thank you for allowing us a peek!

Tim Naugler
RV-6A QB 60500
N251RV reserved
Kirkland, WA
 
Schematic

I am just starting with all of this, but do you have a wiring schematic? Just want to know what sensors and power sources, etc you tied this panel into...
 
Schematic....

Actually, I am embarrassed to say that I have still not converted my folder full of chicken-scratched wiring notes into decent-looking schematics. I have all the data - just haven't taken the time to learn a decent graphics program and do the drawings. I mean, who has the time when they have a flying airplane ?! :p

The wiring is really simple for this though - each LED is powered from the circuit it is sensing with +12 volts. This goes through the LED, followed by a 700 Ohm resistor, and then ties in to all the other LED ground sides before going through a 1K Ohm pot, and then to ground. Any good Aggie should be able to figure that out ! (If you didn't attend Texas A&M, I appologize....) :D

Almost all of my lights are status indicators, which are wired directly off of the circuit they are showing. For instance, the "Landing Light" LED is just saying that there is voltage on the Landing Light wire downstream of the switch, and the same thing with pitot heat, fuel pump, etc...

The Oil Presure light is driven by a pressure switch through a relay (I had to invert the signal). The EIS is similarly driven through an inverting relay. The power for those relays comes off a circuit breaker on the Essential Bus which is for panel indications.

Sorry I don't have an actual drawing - maybe someday, when it gets low and rainy, and I'm stuck inside....

Paul
 
That is what I figured. For the oil pressure light, I was basically wondering if there was a discrete off the engine monitor or MDU. And, since it is nicely packaged with a what looks like a 9 pin serial connector, I was really interested in what that plugged into behind the panel.

I was just fishing for some more details. It looks sharp! Well done.

P.S. I did attend A&M...B.S. in Aero Eng.
 
The connector makes it look more complex than it is - that's just there so I can easily remove the entire instrument panel - I ended up with about a dozen disconnects to take the panel out, and can do it in about ten minutes.

The oil pressure switch came from the autoparts store - manufactured to the highest AC/Delco standards, I'm sure - and screws in to an empty oil system spot on my Van's sensor manifold.

Paul
 
A couple more pictures...

It was amiserable rainy day today, so instead of flying, I worked around the hangar. While I was rummaging through my junk parts bin, I ran across the original prototype for the annunciator panel, and took a few pictures. I never drilled holes in the back for the LED's, or did any wiring, but these should show all the secrets to build the housing...


img06340kq.jpg


img06368wa.jpg


Paul
 
Roll-Your-Own Annunciator Panel

Paul,
Where were you when I was building the Doll. Your annunciator panel is very creative. It may not be rocket science but in your case....it's close.
Well done.
 
Pic's are way too big

Paul, the pictures that you posted are 1296 X 972. They look great, but they stretch the entire page of the thread so you have to scan right and left to read. Doug says in his instructions, that the best fit is about 600 X 400.

I enjoy reading ALL of your stuff, but I don't like to work at it.

By the way, have you found anything that you do not like about the GRT? That is what I have in mind for my upgrade. I am looking at the Sport. What do you think. :rolleyes:

Thanks,

Warren
 
gasman said:
Paul, the pictures that you posted are 1296 X 972. They look great, but they stretch the entire page of the thread so you have to scan right and left to read. Doug says in his instructions, that the best fit is about 600 X 400.

Warren

Sorry about the picture sizes Warren....that was over a year ago, back when we were all still learning how to post pictures correctly....never went back to clean them up.

The GRT it is an outstanding EFIS - if you build a comparison matrix with all the possible features you can think of for an EFI, and then go down the list for all of the available glass panel displays, you'll find that it's hard to beat. I have no direct experience with the Sport - I fly a full Horizon, so keep that in mind.

Paul
 
P1010010.JPG

Some people call them “Idiot Lights”, lights that are on under some condition, and off when that condition is not present. There are strong opinions on whether or not they are useful. Annunciator functions can be implemented through the glass panel displays that some are installing, and therefore an annunciator panel is just adding unnecessary complexity.

If forgetting to turn off a fuel boost pump after takeoff, or not remembering to turn on strobe lights before starting the engine makes one an idiot, then count me in.:eek: Our RV-7 is going to have an annunciator panel. Exactly what conditions will be monitored is yet to be determined. Two prototypes have been built. Continue reading at our Blog.
 
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Nice DIY blog. I used similar lamps in my HR-II with a dual SkyView.

For those who want a pre-built lamp controller, Makerplane sells 4, 6 and 12 channel controllers. Google IL-4A, IL-6A or IL-12A. These units drive the FMS Microjet annunciators. Occasionally show up on ebay as well.
 
Old thread resurrection

Actually, I am embarrassed to say that I have still not converted my folder full of chicken-scratched wiring notes into decent-looking schematics. I have all the data - just haven't taken the time to learn a decent graphics program and do the drawings. I mean, who has the time when they have a flying airplane ?! :p

The wiring is really simple for this though - each LED is powered from the circuit it is sensing with +12 volts. This goes through the LED, followed by a 700 Ohm resistor, and then ties in to all the other LED ground sides before going through a 1K Ohm pot, and then to ground. Any good Aggie should be able to figure that out ! (If you didn't attend Texas A&M, I appologize....) :D

Almost all of my lights are status indicators, which are wired directly off of the circuit they are showing. For instance, the "Landing Light" LED is just saying that there is voltage on the Landing Light wire downstream of the switch, and the same thing with pitot heat, fuel pump, etc...

The Oil Presure light is driven by a pressure switch through a relay (I had to invert the signal). The EIS is similarly driven through an inverting relay. The power for those relays comes off a circuit breaker on the Essential Bus which is for panel indications.

Sorry I don't have an actual drawing - maybe someday, when it gets low and rainy, and I'm stuck inside....

Paul

My RV-7 came with a set of Infinity stick grips with multiple switches, one of which controls flap extension/retraction.

The way the flap switch works, it is a "press and hold" to extend, but when moved to "UP" the switch will stay in position and operate the flap motor until it is moved back to the center "OFF".

I can't tell you how many flight hours I have logged with the switch inadvertantly left "up" with the flap motor continuing to operate until I discover it later. Sometimes, much later. Sometimes, not until shutdown. The high ambient noise of the cockpit, along with the Bose noise cancellation results in an inability to hear it running...Additionally, I was once unable to extend the flaps at all inflight, and discovered after landing that the grip mounted on the pax side switch had been moved to "UP", completely locking flap operation out on both sides.

While I could install limit switches, a far simpler solution for me would be a simple annunciator light, "ON" whenever the flap motor is getting power. Not being an electrician or electrical engineer, wiring is somewhat of a dark art to me, so I pulled this old thread up to see if I could get a little insight into wiring one of these:

http://www.steinair.com/storedetail.cfm?productid=197

into the flap circuit, then mounting it next to the boost pump light already in the panel.

I noticed in this thread, Paul wired a resistor (700 ohm) into his circuit after the LED...Why? And, would the product from Stein Air require the same thing? Also, I'm assuming the magic juice (electricity) flows one way with flap extension, and another way with flap retraction...but I seem to recall only 2 wires (red & black) going to the flap motor...how do I wire this in so that the light goes on no matter which way the flaps are moving?

Can I just splice in anywhere in the line to the flap motor, or would I be better off tapping in where the wiring comes out of the bottom of the Infinity grip at the bottom of the control stick? Solder? Or crimp connectors?

Any other advice/recommendations appreciated!

Rob S.
 
What you need is a bridge rectifier, available from you favorite electronics part shop.

Connect the wires labeled '~? to the two flap leads, the '+' wire to the LED anode and the ?-' wire to the LED cathode through a 330 ohm (plus or minus) resistor.

If you want to be able to dim this lamp along with other lamps, you'll need the world famous IL-4a or IL-6a from Makerplane, both of which are designed to work with flap circuits.

Cheers
 
Or, you could save all that trouble and swap out the switches in your infinity grips with spring loaded ones. Can't be left in either the up or down position.

Call JD at Infinity. He'll sell you the switches and a modified socket to get the top nuts off the switches that are deeply recessed into the grips.

I just swapped out the switch on the rear stick as I've had several cases of the switch getting bumped in the up position accidentally and finding myself without flaps on landing. (I have a limit switch rigged to the flaps that cuts out the circuit in the full up position.)

In the 8, it takes some real contortions to get your finger on that rear stick in flight! :D
 
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Or, you could save all that trouble and swap out the switches in your infinity grips with spring loaded ones. Can't be left in either the up or down position.

Call JD at Infinity. He'll sell you the switches and a modified socket to get the top nuts off the switches that are deeply recessed into the grips.

I just swapped out the switch on the rear stick as I've had several cases of the switch getting bumped in the up position accidentally and finding myself without flaps on landing. (I have a limit switch rigged to the flaps that cuts out the circuit in the full up position.)

In the 8, it takes some real contortions to get your finger on that rear stick in flight! :D

To quote that great aviator, Homer Simpson..."D'oh!!!"

GREAT idea...will give JD a call and swap the switch out.

Is there soldering involved? How involved is doing the changeout? Like I said, electricity is not my strong suit, and I desperately do not want to let the expensive smoke out of any motors, boxes, controls, etc.

Thanks!

Rob
 
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