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Tricks for using small amounts of primer?

A

alpinelakespilot2000

Well Known Member
I'm using Dupont Variprime 615/616. [no primer war please! ;) ] However, in most cases I will need just a little bit of it at a time. Any suggestions on methods/tricks to mix just small amounts together without making the big mess I usually do when trying to pour paint out of a can. [can't afford to waste any--it's expensive stuff!] I'm thinking maybe just sucking some out with a large syringe (which would have the additional benefit of measuring at the same time so that I get the correct 1:1--I think--ratio) might be the best way. Just thought I'd check to see what others are doing if they too are drawing small amounts from a larger can. I've already learned some pretty good tricks from these forums, so I'm optimistic here too! :)

Steve
 
Probably not what you want to hear, but the best trick is not only one that will save you material, but will also save you a LOT of time.

And that is to prepare dozens of pieces for riveting ahead of time, and then prime them all at once.
That will save you many hours by not having to stop frequently to prime just a piece or two.

Matt
RV7-A
 
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I use a pyrex glass measuring cup (4 cup) to mix. And stainless steel measuring cups to scoop out of can. The glass cup has measure lines making it easy to get exact amounts. I havent mixed just a little but you could easily do it with this set up. The glass and stainless cleanup easily as well. They only cost a few bucks to.
 
I agree with Vern. Wait to prime until you get a pile of parts. Also, be careful about using a syringe. In my RC modeling days I did just as you suggested with epoxy paint and ended up with fisheye all over the place. There is silicone in those syringes to lubricate the plunger. May cause problems with the variprime. Just a theory, not proven though.

Regards,
 
Primer Pistol

While this product doesn't really help with the measuring aspect of mixing small batches, it might with the application process.

From this web site:

<http://www5.mailordercentral.com/clevtool/prodinfo.asp?number=PP3&variation=&aitem=1&mitem=1>

"Primer Pistol is the simple and cost effective way to apply small amounts of primer paint and liquid with minimal cleanup time. Uses disposable film containers for throw away paint cups. A valuable tool, you will find it's well worth the investment. Cleaveland Tools part #PP3, $24.00

Best,

-Jim
Northern Virginia
 
I've used the same stuff and I use a turkey baster to extract/measure out of the larger cans.
 
Paint Can Lid

Walmart sells a lid for standard 1 gal cans which has a plastic spout with screw on cap. I put them on all my cans. Dont spill a drop.Easy to seal.
 
Dixie cups...

I use small unwaxed Dixie cups...the bathroom style. I use them to dip out a small mount of primer from the gallon can and pour it into a small glass jar with a screw-on lid. Then I fill a second cup with the same amount of converter, pour it into the jar, screw on the lid, and shake until well mixed. Then I pour through a paint filter into the spray gun cup and go at it.

I have several sizes of glass jars for mixing different quantities of paint. I use a primer piltol (from Van's) for really small jobs, a touch-up gun for moderate amounts, and I recently purchsed a DeVilbiss HVLP gun for priming wing ribs.

The Dixie cups are also a good tool for measuring and mixing epoxy or polyester resin.
 
I dispense about 20 oz. of each product into mason jars. Then, as needed, pour small and manageable quantities into a resin mixing cup for accurate ratios. Then I mix and shoot!

122dscn0596-med.jpg


It works for me!

:cool: CJ
 
Thanks, C.J. Seems like a good suggestion--using other jars looks like it would preclude the need to keep opening the big gallon cans. Out of curiousity, what does a "fast" converter (e.g. 620S) do that 616S does not. Dry faster, but give you a smaller work time? Is it any better for applying in colder temperatures, or would I want the opposite, the "slow" converter, in that case?

Will probably be applying my first primer to the HS, VS, and maybe rudder this weekend. Headed down to buy some 615 (and whichever converter) later this week.

Thanks again.

Steve
 
Yup, you got it... the diff between the fast and slow is called "flash time" and it has nothing to do with Doug's plane. It is the time that it takes for the gloss to disappear from the fresh layer of paint. That flash time is dependent upon relative temerature and humidity.

Around here, in the winter anyways... the slow stuff is better for me.

The primary reason for using the jars isn't REALLY for convenience, but it is convenient. The REAL reason is to keep humidity from entering the gallon of product every time I need a dab of the stuff. Overall, it keeps the paint in better quality.

Have fun!

:D CJ
 
I just found a good deal on a cheap paint gun. If you are in the market you may want to check it out!

Paint gun

They also have cheap chinese unibits TiN coated!

:p CJ
 
no-lube syringes

I use $2 horse syringes from the feedstore which have no lube in them (as per the post by 'painless'). I've used them for Akzo epozy primer, K38 filler/primer, and Sherwin Williams waterborne polyurethane. No problems at all, and *very* convenient.
 
Alan Erickson said:
I use $2 horse syringes from the feedstore which have no lube in them (as per the post by 'painless'). I've used them for Akzo epozy primer, K38 filler/primer, and Sherwin Williams waterborne polyurethane. No problems at all, and *very* convenient.
Click to expand...

Hi Alan-

How do you know the syringes you bought don't have any lube? (Or, better question, how will I know the ones I'm buying won't?) If I go to a different feed store, will it be so marked on the package?

This still seems like the best method so long as they don't have any lube in them, so I appreciate your keeping my hopes alive! : )

Steve
 
cautiously experiment

>How do you know the syringes you bought don't have any lube?
Dunno fer sure, so I was quite cautious before shooting real parts. At the store I removed the plunger and felt the rubber seal, which was dry and not at all slippery. I cleaned the parts with acetone to see if anything would melt or otherwise self-destruct. Then I mixed some Akzo and shot a good-sized test piece with varying thicknesses. Whenever I go get new syringes, I still carefully examine each one and rinse 'em down with acetone before use. I'm also very careful not to contaminate the paint-can contents (never put stuff back from the syringe!). YMMV, but experimentation is cheap if done carefully! I like being able to just squirt a coupla cc's of gunk straight into the gun reservoir for those occasional small needs, though I usually batch stuff up.
 
[email protected] said:
Walmart sells a lid for standard 1 gal cans which has a plastic spout with screw on cap. I put them on all my cans. Dont spill a drop.Easy to seal.
Click to expand...

I used those also with my AKZO fast-drying epoxy. After a couple of weeks with those things on the cans, I opened up the part 'A', pulled on the lid to pull the spout out, and the primer had eaten completely through the spout. That AKZO is some strong stuff.

- Jamie
 
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