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Help cutting panel

N8RV

N8RV

Well Known Member
A long time ago, a couple of names were circulating in the RV community for people who could cut panels from Panel Planner or similar software, but I can't find any references to them anymore.

Any help? I'd like to have my holes cut neatly and not with a hacksaw blade ...

(feel free to e-mail responses as well: [email protected])

Thanks,

Don McNamara
N8RV
 
I know that Steinair can also do it. Thye have CAD capability and were able to help layout a panel I designed in Epanelbuilder. I know they also work with pannel planner.

What's nice is that they have taken micrometer measurements of virtually all the currently used avionics and can prevent miss-alignment. They really understand how this stuff goes together.
 
Panel Cutting

Don,

I sent you a private email. I used Experimentair but thought I should take this one off line.

RG
 
:eek: I used Ex-Air to cad the the lay out and than cut the panel. Overall the work was very good but it took 5 weeks to get the panel back after it was cut. Also I ordered a vent from him when I sent the panel to be cut but have not received it yet and he has not responded to my e-mails,,, don't know if I'm out $115.00 for the vent.
 
Panel cutting

This was the problem I had with Ex-Air. I thought at first he had his own waterjet cutting equipment but after hounding him to get it done, I found out he had to send the panel out for cutting. I understand doing this kind of work is not a full time job for most, but if your going to provide services, get your act together and at least communicate with your customers or something like this happens.
RG
 
I understand there can also be issues of fit and spacing. Again I recomend, and have chosen for myself Steinair....

They have CAD, and sell almost everything in the pannel, so for instance switches and breakers will be spaced correctly from the start. All the little details will be taken care of.

JC
 
Panel cutting

Adam,

Other than a few minor details like the notches on the switch holes and the Primer/Boost switch next to the Start switch being too close the overall cutting was nice. Everything was straight and the instruments fit tight.

This is the panel before and after I added a few instruments.
http://www.kitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=rglick&project=20&category=131&log=6502&row=4

This is the subpanel for the switches.
http://www.kitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=rglick&project=20&category=131&log=6649&row=2

It made sure there was plenty of clearance between swtiches by asking for 1" separation. Installing the switch subpanel took care of the notches not being there. I used anti-rotation rings on the back side of the panel like alot of the builders use.

Richard
 
Richard,

Your panel looks very similar to what I'm thinking about.


The only differences are that I'm trying to squeeze a 296/396 under the D100 and I'm hoping to use the larger screen EMS from Dynon on the right side, which pushes the avionics toward the left.

It's very cool to see a similar layout implemented.

Dave
 
Panel Cutting

Dave,

With the capability of Monitoring engine components with the D100 (Split Screen) in future software versions, I decided to go with the smaller EMS10 giving me more room on the Right side. Although having the larger EMS display for EFIS viewing would be nice for flying from the right seat. Oh well, not turning back on that one. Already made two uprades with the Pictorial Pilot and the D100 but those were No Brainers IMHO.

Richard
 
Yeah, you have to freeze the technology at some point. I'm currently still chasing that rabbit. I'll have to make a final decision on avionics pretty soon.

I just checked on the pricing of the EMS-D120. It's only about $300 more than the EMS-D10. But wait a minute--they have a Sporkpak price of $3200 (w/o probes) for the EFIS-D100 plus EMS-D120. That seems very low. That makes the EMS-D120 just an $800 add on to the EFIS. That can't be right.
http://www.dynonavionics.com/docs/D100Announcement.html

Dave
 
Davepar said:
Yeah, you have to freeze the technology at some point. I'm currently still chasing that rabbit. I'll have to make a final decision on avionics pretty soon.

I just checked on the pricing of the EMS-D120. It's only about $300 more than the EMS-D10. But wait a minute--they have a Sporkpak price of $3200 (w/o probes) for the EFIS-D100 plus EMS-D120. That seems very low. That makes the EMS-D120 just an $800 add on to the EFIS. That can't be right.
http://www.dynonavionics.com/docs/D100Announcement.html

Dave
Click to expand...


Dave,
That price seems to be for just one screen the size of the D100 but will have both engine and flight instruments in one without the need to buy a second screen or box. In that sense, it seems reasonable. Note that it is called the FlightDek 180 (or something like that) and is not the "SportPak" that includes two separate boxes and screens. Do you read it the same way?
 
Hacksaw Bad?

I designed my panel and used appropriate hand tools to cut and finish it - including a hacksaw where appropriate. It was very satisfying work really using a variety of files and edge breaking tools to get the finished product. It is cheap and reasonable way to get a hand crafted panel of very high quality. You are not dependent on anything but your skill the tools you will acquire for this one time, one of a kind job. If you want to modify it (you will I'm fairly sure) you will know what to do without worrying about someone else's expertise.

Bob Axsom

cutpanel3kc.jpg
 
Dynon

Dave,

Steve is correct, the Flightdek D-180 is $3200 which is an all in one unit that is due out next year.

The D100/D120 Sportpak will probably be a discount of $200 off or around $4300. I thought it was posted on their site but can't seem to find it. Give em a call.

Richard
 
Yup, that makes sense on the Dynon pricing. I was just reading too quickly.

Bob, that's a good perspective. I had original planned on having someone cut my panel for me, but now I'm thinking of doing it myself. Since I'm going with an EFIS, it's mostly square holes. I only have a couple of round instruments. It'll take a little bit extra of my time, but may actually be a quicker turn-around.
 
Thanks, everyone, for the repies. Because Stein Bruch of SteinAir contacted me first, I engaged in several e-mail exchanges and a lengthy phone call. He now knows exactly what I want, why I want it and how I want it done!

Because I stand a very good chance of not only buggering up my panel if I try to cut it myself (not being HALF the artisan most other builders are!), as well as frying my expensive electronics if I mistakenly connect the green wire here to the brown/black wire there ... well, you can imagine.

So, I'm planning on having Stein not only cut and paint my panel, but install and wire the instruments as well. Money well spent in my book. Hey, after 9.5 years in the saddle, I'm ready to fly this beast. I could spend MONTHS trying to wire up my panel!

Thanks again to all for the input.

-- Don McNamara
N8RV
 
That may be a good choice but there is a penalty

The panel is an area where you can make a lot of mistakes and if you have no electrical background the opportunity to smoke expensive hardware and compromise performance is great. If on the other hand you do have some background in electronics building up you own panel has the great benefits of gaining hands on experience and knowing what is behind your panel. If you do not build it up yourself only the intrapanel wires will be terminated - you are going to have to make the remote terminations with wires that come from who knows where, etc. Make sure you get at least a hybrid schematic,wiring diagram with detail showing all terminations including grounds, with pin identification and wire identification. Making up your own drawings if you do it yourself with hardware from different manufacturers is difficult because of different signal/function naming conventions and symbols, but it is essential. You also must also buy the right tools (crimpers are very expensive) and use them properly for reliable service. Soldering has its own problems. Well you get the idea - it is critical but done properly it is very rewarding.

Bob Axsom

instrumentpanelbuildup6ts.jpg
 
Wow! Very clean wiring job. I hope you have a tip-up so you can admire that wiring every time the canopy is open.

Dave
 
Richard and Dave,

I am looking at basically the same panel as you two, I like Dave would like to
put the GPS below the Dynon D100. How far down from the top of the panel
do I have to be (to the top of the D100) in order to clear the left top rib? I'm
a 7A Slider. I'd like to get it as high as I can. Just starting to lay out the
panel.

Thanks

Larry
 
I have a tip-up. so I'm not sure. I'm relocating the left rib behind the panel. Even then I'm not sure there is enough room for the D100 and AirGizmos GPS mount, one over the other, directly in front of the pilot. I might have to move them slightly to the right or do a home-brew GPS mount.
 
Larry,

Mine is 2" from the Left rib hole and I have 1/2" clearance from the rear top of the D100 to the Rib. I figured you could go up another 1" before it would hit the rib. You can always cut the rib and reinforce with an angle piece of alum if you need to go up higher with the D100.

Richard

drawing18ee.gif
 
Thanks a lot guys, helped a bunch. I was thinking about modifying the rib if
required. I'm also considering placing the GPS above the radio stack since I'm
putting in a simple stack, but directly in front of the pilot would be nice.
Decisions, decisions, decisions...

Larry
 
Tip-Up Left Rib

I relocated my left panel support rib to clear the GRT EFIS and still have the EFIS's center exactly in front of my nose. I got the idea from a -9A builder.
The GRT EFIS is 7.25", but the critical line is the inboard center line through the screws and the inboard side of the box, not the fascia. Sorry the picture is so crude, but all the lines have been drawn precisely on the forward side of the panel. You can see where the rib is by the clecos and the hole in the picture of the EFIS is the old, pre-punched hole. I did some extra stiffening on the sub-panel to make up for not lining up with the rib forward of the sub-panel.
Note the limited horizontal space between the rib and the jettison rod, where the switch block is (no room for radios).
h
N17hhActualPanel.jpg
 
Oft overlooked

I don't know why more people don't consider the Approach Systems wiring hub. (http://www.approach-systems.com) Especially those that don't have any electrical background. I fell into that category and went with this system. The service is great, the prices reasonable and install becomes a breeze. All necessary interfaces are in the hub. Example, I have the Garmin 330S transponder for TIS and the Garmin 430.

The price ends up adding about $400 over conventional harnesses but the BS factor is reduced significantly. Other than audio panel wiring all the user has to do is hook up power, ground and, in some cases, lighting. The audio panel wasn't too bad and was the toughest part of the install.

When done, I threw the switch and everything worked perfectly. NO SMOKE!!!

My wiring is completely finished now and I'm doing the tidying up of the wires. I'll post a couple of pictures tomorrow of the hub and how it is installed in my 7 Tip up.

Darwin N. Barrie
Chandler AZ
 
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