Should I bend the attach angles?

Hopefully a builder with some experience can recommend if it is OK to briefly bend the W1206V attach angles to allow the air rivet gun to sit square. I just tried grinding the head of the close space hand riveter so that it actually fits inside the attach angle without hitting the angle and that works but I am going to get carpal tunnel.

While I am asking questions. The instructions say I can repair or ignore the excess shaft depending on location. I went ahead and ground the excess flat, but the little evil guy in my head says to drill it out and redo it. The nice guy in my head says "the enemy of good is better" and that I am going to making a bigger mess trying to drill out the rivet. So would experienced builders leave the pull rivet in or drill it out.

Not a problem!

Leave it! If you're concerned about what the stem will do later on, put a drop of epoxy in the hole.

Mel said:

Leave it! If you're concerned about what the stem will do later on, put a drop of epoxy in the hole.

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Hi Mel.... Thanks for the advice. The idea of a drop of epoxy is interesting. I went ahead and used the tight space rivet hand tool to rivet the attach angles. I had to grind off some of the top surface of the head of the tight space rivet tool so that it would fit without bending the angle iron or scrape the aluminum, but it does work well. So I had some success with that problem.

Now I am up against a new problem. Sigh.

The wing spar comes with attach angles that have large solid rivets in two positions, at the ends of the attach angles. I am supposed to rivet the remaining three holes with LP4-3 rivets. About half of the holes line up well, but about half of the holes are a tiny, tiny bit off, and the drill holes are so accurate that the rivet will not slide through. Bummer!

Edit: I went to Jerry Greenberg's web site and Jerry had the same problem at the exact same step! Thanks for your blog Jerry! Using a hole alignment tool, basically an awl that I ground the tip off, I was able to get most of the rivets to fit. I only had to "touch drill" and de-burr a few holes. The trick was not to pull any rivets in a given attach angle until _all_ of the rivets were in the holes.

Hand Riveter

Jeff,

It's probably worthwhile to slap a layer of duct tape on the nose of the close-quarter hand riveter, as well as grinding it down a little. The tape will help keep the nose from marring the spar and/or angle.

I was having the same issue with the pneumatic riveter and the angle pieces. The choice was to use the "wedge" device with the pneumatic riveter, or run the risk of carpal tunnel with the P26A hand-riveter. I went with the P26A, just like you.

New Avery Tool Coming?

lawspud said:

Jeff,

It's probably worthwhile to slap a layer of duct tape on the nose of the close-quarter hand riveter, as well as grinding it down a little. The tape will help keep the nose from marring the spar and/or angle.

I was having the same issue with the pneumatic riveter and the angle pieces. The choice was to use the "wedge" device with the pneumatic riveter, or run the risk of carpal tunnel with the P26A hand-riveter. I went with the P26A, just like you.

Jeff

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Bob Avery called me the other day and asked me about the tool that I made to pull rivets in tight places where you can't get the rivet puller in square to the rivet. I sent him the information and he is considering making the tool for sale. Give Avery a call and ask for one. If he gets enough demand, he will make them. It sure makes pulling the rivets that are in tight places easier.

lawspud said:

Jeff,

It's probably worthwhile to slap a layer of duct tape on the nose of the close-quarter hand riveter, as well as grinding it down a little. The tape will help keep the nose from marring the spar and/or angle.

I was having the same issue with the pneumatic riveter and the angle pieces. The choice was to use the "wedge" device with the pneumatic riveter, or run the risk of carpal tunnel with the P26A hand-riveter. I went with the P26A, just like you.

Jeff

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Jeff... Looks like we are progressing in unison. That is great since I seem to have more problems getting things done than most here! Yesterday I just hit a wall when I could not figure out how to move forward and was temporarily bummed. But having surmounted the problems, I feel like I can anything today. Er. Well, until the next problem crops up

I like the duct tape idea, but I note that it does wear off quickly and needs to be replaced often. I just don't have any spare plastic coated thin aluminum to use as a shield. The stuff I got at the heating and air conditioning shop is pretty thick.

I did buy a swivel head hand riveter and ground off the nose to 30 degrees. For some reason the shafts break high on this setup. I really hope Avery decides to make Jim's tight space tool.

jamescone said:

Bob Avery called me the other day and asked me about the tool that I made to pull rivets in tight places where you can't get the rivet puller in square to the rivet. I sent him the information and he is considering making the tool for sale. Give Avery a call and ask for one. If he gets enough demand, he will make them. It sure makes pulling the rivets that are in tight places easier.

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Jim.. I called Bob a few days ago and asked about your tool and he said he would call you I hope that Bob decides to make your tool. I tried to make your tool by riveting together two large solid rivet gauges, but it is VERY evident that I am no machinist.

MASKING TAPE

I use masking tape on all tools. It provides a nice cushion and avoids scratching. You can wrap cleco plier handles and rivet gun heads. I learned this at Alexander metal workshop. The tape wears quickly but is easily replaced. I tape a piece over the head of the rivet puller and it prevents scratches when the gun pulls the mandrel.

EAA workshops have a good video showing how to use a piece of aluminum wedge and bending the rivet mandrel before pulling for those tight fits. It has worked well for my wing.

m.j.adams said:

EAA workshops have a good video showing how to use a piece of aluminum wedge and bending the rivet mandrel before pulling for those tight fits. It has worked well for my wing.

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M.J. Thanks for reminding me about those videos!

Jeff

jamescone said:

Bob Avery called me the other day and asked me about the tool that I made to pull rivets in tight places where you can't get the rivet puller in square to the rivet. I sent him the information and he is considering making the tool for sale. Give Avery a call and ask for one. If he gets enough demand, he will make them. It sure makes pulling the rivets that are in tight places easier.

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Thanks, Jim. That tool looks like a major improvement over EAA's recommended tiny wedge. It is very generous of you to allow Bob to sell them. I'll give them a call tomorrow.

rivet pulling in tight places

I live in the DFW area so I made a local call to Avery Tools earlier today to express my interest in Jim Cone's tool for pulling rivets in tight places. The person that answered the phone said that the best way to convey our interest in the tool was to e-mail Bob Avery. Bob Avery's e-mail address is [email protected] and I have e-mailed him of my interest in the tool. E-mail Bob Avery of your interest and maybe there will be enough demand so Bob Avery will offer the tool.

Bob Kibby, wing kit #105 (supposed to ship this week), fuselage Kit #?? ordered