Two questions ..........

First, RV-9 Dwg 29 (section G-2, upper right corner) says "Notch F652 to clear the attach nuts for C-664 (sliding canopy only, see Dwg 42)." I can't seem to find Dwg 42 anywhere. Is it included with the QB fuse drawings, or is it in the finish kit, which I have not received yet?

Second, Dwg 25 (and the instructions) call for an 8-32 tap to be run through the outboard nutplates for the left and right forward seat floors (F939 & F-940). What would be wrong with running this tap through all of the cabin cockpit nutplates to make them easier to deal with (fwd baggage side covers, baggage tunnel cover, upper and lower baggage bulkhead, etc.)?

Thanks for the help.

Greg

Hmmm... dwg 42 doesn't exist in the standard -9A planset...

ge9a said:

Second, Dwg 25 (and the instructions) call for an 8-32 tap to be run through the outboard nutplates for the left and right forward seat floors (F939 & F-940). What would be wrong with running this tap through all of the cabin cockpit nutplates to make them easier to deal with (fwd baggage side covers, baggage tunnel cover, upper and lower baggage bulkhead, etc.)?

Greg

Click to expand...

I did just that. I ran a tap through many of the nutplates on the plane (anything that was not truely structural in nature). It sure makes installing and removing the screws easier with much less strip out of the heads etc.

ge9a said:

What would be wrong with running this tap through all of the cabin cockpit nutplates to make them easier to deal with (fwd baggage side covers, baggage tunnel cover, upper and lower baggage bulkhead, etc.)?

Click to expand...

A little bit of Boelube solves your problem almost entirely. Screws are quite easy going in with it, terribly hard without.

ge9a said:

What would be wrong with running this tap through all of the cabin cockpit nutplates to make them easier to deal with (fwd baggage side covers, baggage tunnel cover, upper and lower baggage bulkhead, etc.)?

Click to expand...

Nut Plates have a "self locking mechanism built in", if you will, they taper. Running a tap through them eliminates this. Doing it on a couple here and there would be acceptable but not all. If you have a problem installing or removing screws I suggest buying a good ACR Phillips screwdriver.

Screwed

This worked well for me.....

On the advice of a friend, I bought a slug of stainless steel screws. Every time I installed nutplates, I would finish up by running a longer screw thru them to "break them in". (with the power screwdriver, of course) This would correct any offset errors and also makes final installation much easier. The stainless steel screws are much more forgiving against stripping out the heads as well.

Hwood