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When to rivet forward deck

ericwolf

Well Known Member
I'm at the stage where most of the fuselage kit is done and I now have the finishing kit. I would like to do all of the canopy cutting and drilling while it is still warm here in Wisconsin (I do have a heater, but I would rather rely on warm weather).

My question is can I do all of the canopy cutting and drilling while the forward deck is clecoed on? Could I then remove the canopy, frame, and forward deck so that I have access for electrical & plumbing? I realize that the windscreen needs to be bonded to the aluminum and it should be riveted at that point.

Also, Van's says that the deck skin should be riveted before fitting the baggage door, or it may not fit properly. The Orndorff video says to leave it clecoed so that the plastic blocks can be more easily fitted. What does everyone think about that?
 
Can't answer your second question about the baggage area...still working on my canopy skirt and saving the baggage fun for last. However, you'll have no problem with the fwd skin clecoed in position while you carve your canopy and fit to the frame rail. That's how I did it and had no problem. I've heard of others doing the same. One thing I did notice was that I had to trim a little of the skin that covers the sid of the roll bar (assuming you are building and 8 slider). Others had to do the same. This little bit of skin interfeared with the slider. You'll see what I mean when you mount it. Good luck!
 
You can build the baggage door with the top skin clecoed on - I did it that way, and I know others have. I don't have a first-place-award-winning fit, but everybody that has seen it says it is fine (and it probably wouldn't have been award winning the other way either!). I didn't rivet on the forward top skin until I was ready to glass on the windshield - and it had been cut logn before that.

Paul Dye
 
Fwd Skin Trimming

Charlie said:
One thing I did notice was that I had to trim a little of the skin that covers the sid of the roll bar (assuming you are building and 8 slider). Others had to do the same. This little bit of skin interfeared with the slider. You'll see what I mean when you mount it. Good luck!

Charlie,
Now I know what you mean about trimming the fwd skin for the canopy frame. There wasn't a lot of trimming, but some was definately needed. Thanks for your comments.

I'm considering partially riveting the fwd skin on while fitting the baggage door. That way, it will be better than only clecos, and I will be able to remove some of them to fit the plastic blocks. In any case, it will be a long time before this happens since I would like to do most of the wiring with the fwd top skin removed.
 
fwd skin

Eric

I pop-riveted (in 6 places) my fwd skin on and then cleco's every hole to do my fwd bagage door and canopy. While my plane is not finished, I can't see there being any significant difference, especially since you use cargo straps to help shape the door. I have since drilled out the pop-rivets and am just starting to wire and plumb.

Whatever you do, use the glue method on the door. I pro-sealed my door together with it strapped down and let it cure that way. I have since riveted it together and the fit and shape is perfect. Way easy.

Good Luck
Wade
 
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