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Did you prime?

Did you prime?

  • Yes

    Votes: 151 85.3%

  • No

    Votes: 26 14.7%
  • Total voters
    177
B

bmurrish

Well Known Member
This is not intended to start a primer war. I would simply like to know if you primed or not. Keep in mind, we all know you have to prime non-alclad parts and some disimilar joining metals. What I am talking about here is things that are alclad, like ribs.
 
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Prime?

We built a "full build" RV9A between 2001 and 2003 and did use a convenient spray can self etching primer on all interior surfaces including the scoured skins and ribs. This primer is not mechanically strong (or hard) and can be scratched fairly easily, but there isn't much to abrade or scratch it on the inside of the airframe.

Bill Deane
 
my father and son team-- I told my dad that I want ALL primer to be shot with a gun no spray cans. after a couple of guns, hardly used, a couple weeks later, I found a case of self-etching primer. and the rest was history.

now two years later,(slo-QB) I'm in our homemade spray booth and I hit some of these pieces with paint and "What the heck?" something in the urethane paint reacted and ran the primer or the paint. Had to wipe them off and reprime. and then paint.

I challenge anyone to find even one run... and I challenge anyone to find ONE piece without contamination. :mad:
 
Mark, what type of primer was it that you had runs when shooting urethane over? I have been using Sherwin Williams self-etching spray cans to this point.
 
I knew you'd ask that, it's etched in my mind.. not SW, some generic supplier name-- I'll get back with you.
 
i'm using NAPA 7220 self-etching in a spray can for non-alclad, mating surfaces, ribs (after scuffing), and spars (after scuffing) on my -7 tail.
 
I'm using Sherwin Williams self etching wash primer on all inside skins and ribs. It sticks like crazy. I have sprayed PPG 271 Epoxy primer over the Sherwin Williams self etching wash primer and after about a year it seems to be fine. I've had no problems with any of it turning loose. I have used the Sherwin Williams self etch spray cans on a few small parts with less than desireable results. You can scratch it very easily.
One thing to remember with the wash primer. Mix it one part primer and two parts activator or it will go on blotchy.

Jim Wright 90919 RV-9A wings
 
After seeing the results of this poll I decided to prime. After going through 3 cans of SW self etching primer on just the right wing main ribs, I am switching to a spray gun primer. Now if I can just find some in the local area.
 
Can I vote twice? The -6A had a variety of primers used. The wings and tail were professionally primed using AKZO, which has been extremely tough. I moved and my new painter was using an epoxy primer but it didn't stick well - possibly because he was not etching or alodining first. I don't remember the primer he used but I ended up having to touch up some areas and discovered SEM. After that, all priming was with SEM rattle cans.

On the other hand, the -10 has not had the al-clad part primed because I am trying to save weight to offset the A/C and other stuff going in and I also did not want to risk overspray where I would be polishing the outer surfaces. Surfaces that get painted, interior or exterior, will of course be primed but in the meantime I am having fun keeping things shiny. It's kind of a challenge and forces me to work much neater than before. I can't have tools laying around or one will accidentally mar a surface.
 
NO

I guess you won't want to be flying near me as my plane is probably going to fall apart. I ended up with a light weight RV-7A and would do most everything the same way again.
 
Why yes I Prime!

Azko Noble self etching Zinc Chromate.

Be advised that if you are going to put an epoxy primer and color coating over the zinc chromate, you have six hours that it is chemically open for a great bond between the ZC and the Epoxy primer.

It works very well and becomes one tough finish, provided you follow their published processes.
 
If this poll is ever repeated, one or two more responses should be included.

I primed but would not prime on my next airplane.

I did not prime but would prime on my next airplane.

I bet there are others like me that did prime but would NOT prime the next time.
 
Yep, and I'm STILL priming (wings just about done). I'm using PPG Super Koropon Fluid Resistant Primer (2 part epoxy green color) over Alumiprep/Alodine preparation. I read the primer wars before I started and decided that in my environment (Pacific Northwest, near the ocean) that I preferred to primer. Especially as I do not yet have a hangar, and the airplane might have to live outside when it is finished. I've seen enough corrosion on airplanes that I'm sure I have made the right choice, however the process of applying it is very time consuming and labour intensive (though not as much so as the Proseal in the fuel tanks!). The finish is extremely tough, you can barely scratch it with a scriber where you can mark the alclad almost with your fingernail. I would probably use this if I ever build another airplane, but I would sure try to make the process faster.
 
Acid Etch, Alodine and then Akzo Nobel two part, fast drying Epoxy (Checkoway method). No doubt its a fair amount of work, expensive and overkill, and sometimes I wonder why I'm doing it. But I think I will be happy I did it when the plane is completed. This primer is bulletproof! Would I do it again?...yeah, but I can see the argument of not doing it also. Its personal preference.
 
Currently acid etching, alodining, and priming with VariPrime (chromate version)

If I were doing it again, I'd probably just acid etch and alodine. Then I'd stop right there. I'm a little skeptical about any significant added value of a post-alodine primer.

I'd like to save the all the weight and effort of priming, but still have the corrosion protection of Alodine. Not to mention, the process of etching and alodining isn't that difficult.

Phil
 
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