Van's Air Force
Don't miss anything! Register now for full access to the definitive RV support community.
Remote Mount Oil Filter
- Thread starter n38139
- Start date
Not a remote unit but the angled adapter makes changing the filter easy. You need a special adapter to make it work on the RV-4 so total cost is $281.00.
Check it out:
http://www.mattituck.com/oil filter adapter add.pdf
Good Luck,
Mahlon
"The opinions and information provided in this and all of my posts
are hopefully helpful to you. Please use the information provided responsibly and at you own risk."
Check it out:
http://www.mattituck.com/oil filter adapter add.pdf
Good Luck,
Mahlon
"The opinions and information provided in this and all of my posts
are hopefully helpful to you. Please use the information provided responsibly and at you own risk."
Airwolf, but angled adaptors are better
Airwolf make a remote filter kit (www.airwolf.com) that repositions the filter to the firewall - you pick the position and order the hoses to suit. It works well, I recently fitted one to the E2D in my 6A. However it is quite expensive, I think it was $400 + hoses. I found out about the angled adaptors after I had fitted it and would have gone with the adaptor that puts the filter at an 11 o'clock position if I had known they existed! At Osh all of the Mattituck engines had these adaptors - see link from Mahlon - if it fits your -4 I would have thought this might be your best route. I understand that oil will drain out of the filter once the engine stops minimizing mess when changing filters. I also believe that it does not affect the build up of oil pressure on start up.
Pete
Airwolf make a remote filter kit (www.airwolf.com) that repositions the filter to the firewall - you pick the position and order the hoses to suit. It works well, I recently fitted one to the E2D in my 6A. However it is quite expensive, I think it was $400 + hoses. I found out about the angled adaptors after I had fitted it and would have gone with the adaptor that puts the filter at an 11 o'clock position if I had known they existed! At Osh all of the Mattituck engines had these adaptors - see link from Mahlon - if it fits your -4 I would have thought this might be your best route. I understand that oil will drain out of the filter once the engine stops minimizing mess when changing filters. I also believe that it does not affect the build up of oil pressure on start up.
Pete
gmcjetpilot
Well Known Member
here is another thread
It may be a pain but you can reduce the effort and/or mess with a: Plastic garbage bag or drain tool (punches a hole in filter and drains it before removal). A last option is replace the filter adapter with a new 90-degree angle adapter. This will make getting at the filter easier. The plastic bag trick or train tool per the below thread also works with this filter adapter.
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=1916
Cost, weight and extra room and crowding of a remote are not worth it, at least for me. When you price an airwolf BTW the expensive hoses don't come with it. With a little practice changing the filter is a small trade off for a much lighter installation with less crowding from more hoses and firewall fittings.
When it comes to high-pressure fire shielded oil lines, keep them to a min.
Cheers George
It may be a pain but you can reduce the effort and/or mess with a: Plastic garbage bag or drain tool (punches a hole in filter and drains it before removal). A last option is replace the filter adapter with a new 90-degree angle adapter. This will make getting at the filter easier. The plastic bag trick or train tool per the below thread also works with this filter adapter.
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=1916
Cost, weight and extra room and crowding of a remote are not worth it, at least for me. When you price an airwolf BTW the expensive hoses don't come with it. With a little practice changing the filter is a small trade off for a much lighter installation with less crowding from more hoses and firewall fittings.
When it comes to high-pressure fire shielded oil lines, keep them to a min.
Cheers George
Last edited:
kevinh
Well Known Member
angled oil filters don't make a mess?
This thread has taught me something (almost):
I recently changed the oil for the first time on my O-360. It has an angled adapter that looks just like the unit in the Mattituck link. I removed the filter while the oil was still warm, and it still made a mess.
How do I remove the oil filter 'mess free' with this adapter. Wait for all the oil to drain into the engine first? (duh
)
This thread has taught me something (almost):
I recently changed the oil for the first time on my O-360. It has an angled adapter that looks just like the unit in the Mattituck link. I removed the filter while the oil was still warm, and it still made a mess.
How do I remove the oil filter 'mess free' with this adapter. Wait for all the oil to drain into the engine first? (duh
)
gmcjetpilot
Well Known Member
Nothing is perfect
http://www5.mailordercentral.com/clevtool/prodinfo.asp?number=OFD80
OR
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/draintool.php
Did you try a plastic bag under the filter. It will never be perfect. Oil changes are not with out some drips, but with practice you can get it down to where a quick wipe with a shop rag will be all that is needed to clean up. I have a horz adapter and never used the 90 filter (vertical) adapter. I don't know if you wait the oil will drain back into the engine. If it does not work that way the same tools and the plastic bag trick will keep the mess to a min.
Regards george
Warm is good but that has nothing to do with keeping the oil spillage to a min. Did you consider:kevinh said:This thread has taught me something (almost):
I recently changed the oil for the first time on my O-360. It has an angled adapter that looks just like the unit in the Mattituck link. I removed the filter while the oil was still warm, and it still made a mess.
How do I remove the oil filter 'mess free' with this adapter. Wait for all the oil to drain into the engine first? (duh
http://www5.mailordercentral.com/clevtool/prodinfo.asp?number=OFD80
OR
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/draintool.php
Did you try a plastic bag under the filter. It will never be perfect. Oil changes are not with out some drips, but with practice you can get it down to where a quick wipe with a shop rag will be all that is needed to clean up. I have a horz adapter and never used the 90 filter (vertical) adapter. I don't know if you wait the oil will drain back into the engine. If it does not work that way the same tools and the plastic bag trick will keep the mess to a min.
Regards george
Last edited:
Dgamble
Well Known Member
kevinh said:This thread has taught me something (almost):
I recently changed the oil for the first time on my O-360. It has an angled adapter that looks just like the unit in the Mattituck link. I removed the filter while the oil was still warm, and it still made a mess.
How do I remove the oil filter 'mess free' with this adapter. Wait for all the oil to drain into the engine first? (duh
I cut a gallon milk jug down to make a kind of scoop. The plastic of the milk jug is very thin and pliable, so it's not hard to wiggle it in there behind the engine/under the filter. YMMV.
Kevin,
I don't know which adapter you have but if it is like the one we sell, you should be using a filter with a bypass built into it. P/N ch-48108-1 or equivalent. If you are using a ch-48110(no bypass built into the filter) on that style adapter you have no clogged filter bypass and if the filter becomes plugged for any reason you will starve the engine for oil. Also with that style filter the oil in the filter can will try to drain out of the can as soon as the filter is loosened making a big mess. There are several other angled adapters out there, some of them don't use a bypass type filter(but rather have the bypass built into the adapter) and it that case, if you poke a small hole in the top filter can when the oil is warm, the oil in the filter can will drain out into the engine after a few minutes allowing the filter to be removed without making a mess. If you have the filter with a bypass the in it, the oil in the filter can can't drain out while you are unscrewing the filter from the adapter, because the filter bypass holds it in the can until you separate the threads of the filter mounting stud from the engine oil filter. If you are quick and immediately turn the filter upside down, after separating the filter from the engine, very little oil will spill. In the test cell we are able to catch all of the spilled oil, in one shop rag, that is placed under the adapter and don't have to wash the engine after filter removal on engines with that style angled adapter.
Good Luck,
Mahlon
"The opinions and information provided in this and all of my posts are hopefully helpful to you. Please use the information provided responsibly and at you own risk."
I don't know which adapter you have but if it is like the one we sell, you should be using a filter with a bypass built into it. P/N ch-48108-1 or equivalent. If you are using a ch-48110(no bypass built into the filter) on that style adapter you have no clogged filter bypass and if the filter becomes plugged for any reason you will starve the engine for oil. Also with that style filter the oil in the filter can will try to drain out of the can as soon as the filter is loosened making a big mess. There are several other angled adapters out there, some of them don't use a bypass type filter(but rather have the bypass built into the adapter) and it that case, if you poke a small hole in the top filter can when the oil is warm, the oil in the filter can will drain out into the engine after a few minutes allowing the filter to be removed without making a mess. If you have the filter with a bypass the in it, the oil in the filter can can't drain out while you are unscrewing the filter from the adapter, because the filter bypass holds it in the can until you separate the threads of the filter mounting stud from the engine oil filter. If you are quick and immediately turn the filter upside down, after separating the filter from the engine, very little oil will spill. In the test cell we are able to catch all of the spilled oil, in one shop rag, that is placed under the adapter and don't have to wash the engine after filter removal on engines with that style angled adapter.
Good Luck,
Mahlon
"The opinions and information provided in this and all of my posts are hopefully helpful to you. Please use the information provided responsibly and at you own risk."
